86BRATMAN
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Everything posted by 86BRATMAN
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F$%& you rear diff drain plug!
86BRATMAN replied to loyale1993's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Best advice I can give you is make damn sure you can get the fill plug out before going any farther. -
^^^along with being a phase 2 engine with different injector plugs and iacv.
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That's about what we expected it to be off, always safe to check for yourself though.
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Ej20T is not a subaru engine code. It is a blanket term people have use for all turbo ej20s. In short yes, you can swap any ej series engine into your legacy. You need to find the actual engine designation so you can see how much work it's going to be.
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It will work perfect. No need to change both.
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When I had my 97 L lifted and running 205/75r15s my speedo would read 55 when my gps speed was 60. My tires were slightly taller than yours so I was a little more off. Best way to see how far yours is off would be to use a gps enabled device like a smartphone or the like and one of the many apps available to give your gps speed and reference it to the speedo.
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Felpro gaskets for the ej22e are oem, the even have the Fuji stamping and ej22 on the gasket itself. Every one I've bought in the last 8 years or so has been this way.
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You'll need to swap the entire bumper assembly and Grill, not just the cover as the support is shaped slightly different in the grill area. But it's not a huge deal, there are a total of four 17mm headed bolts along the frame rails in the front of the engine bay, two on each side. You can probably pull the wiring out of the outback to run the fog lights if the 95 doesn't have them.
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The 2.7 wasn't a turbo motor. But I do enjoy a good 3 door.
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Is this happening on one or both sides?
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New Member From Virginia
86BRATMAN replied to Jackstand Johnny's topic in Meet n' Greet. Your USMB Welcome Center
Where in VA are you located? I'm in the Southwestern end of the state, I know there are some members in the Roanoke and Charlottesville area as well as the DC area. -
I'd put more faith in an ej22e block with ej25d heads than I would an unbuilt ej257, my buddy has a '14 model that had its engine replaced under warranty a few months ago at 9k miles completely stock because of ringland failure. The running the complete motor off an ej22 ecu won't happen. Timing triggers are different, injectors flow roughly double the amount of fuel, throttle body is motorized not cable actuated, no place to bolt up a phase 1 idle air control valve, etc.
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The STi pistons are pretty weak in stock form, they crack ringlands with small amounts of detonation, not something I'd call bullet proof. The biggest problem here is the ej22e heads, not the bottom end. But people love the heads so I'm not getting into that discussion. You will not be able to run the ej22e heads off the STi ecu, that would require more work than it would be worth. Full wiring harness merge, change out the gas pedal to throttle by wire sensor and wiring, ecu, all related sensors must be used.
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The STi is the ej257,you would raise the compression ratio to about 10:1 with ej22e heads. But that would be a giant step in the wrong direction, the ej22e heads are not good flowing. Your best bet would be to grab up the engine and save it for a later date when you have the time and money to swap the car properly.
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Search for high compression frankenmotor on the forum, this build has been discussed at length and anything you could need to know is here. Just a matter of knowing what to look for.
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The spoiler from the 99 won't match your car, the trunk of your car is a couple inches wider than the second gen legacy. The center console lid is also pretty different as well.
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It throws the speedometer off because it has a different speedometer drive gear, you could split the transmission and change that out and have the speedometer be correct again. But why bother?
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03-08 is all the same body, it would be safe to assume that range would have the same sunroof assembly. You can look the part number up on opposedforces.com and see what years specifically fit for sure.
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The 02-05 manual wrx does have a 3.90 up front, but thanks to a 1.1:1 reduction transfer gear it has a 3.54 in the rear like the svx. Automatic wrx's have 4.11 in that same year range. They changed things in 06 and I don't recall exactly what went on with them.
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Everything I've ever read says this is true.
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Some of the plugs may be different on the body harness, but it's nothing that can't be handled by repinning the connectors. Your greatest tool for this task will be copies of the factory service manuals for both vehicles.
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Grab a set of trailing arm mounts from a 96-99 outback. The geometry of them will also push the wheel back to center of the wheelwell.
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My pics are with 205/75r15 that are currently on my forester. 215s you can get by with no body mods (except maybe a bfh to the inner fender well on the front). Just be aware that if you are planning on using used tires they need to be within a quarter inch circumference between all 4 or you will be damaging your transmission.
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Outback struts 98 Forester struts It is very true that the 96-99 outback rear struts have more clearance than the 98-02 forester rear struts. Fronts are the same exact strut however, and there is basically no difference between 96-99 outback and 03-08 forester struts in regards to perch height front or rear. Also without going with more than just struts/springs you'll need tocut on the body to clear 235/75r15s. 215/75r15s would be about the limit without sacrificing body panels.
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I had 205/75r15s on my 97 lifted legacy(currently on my forester), on outback struts. I wouldn't recommend them on 98-02 forester rear struts, there is literally a couple mm between the tire and the spring perch.
