86BRATMAN

Thread title says 98 impreza outback.

I figured you were lol, I enjoy a good debate. And feel free to message me for na trivia too. I've got an na build that I've never seen documented in my legacy right now lol.

I borrowed this picture from the internet, this is the bracket I'm referring to. It's on the front differential support. I always jack my car from the rear diff as well.

Again, not likely. It has been said many times over that the jdm engines don't run exactly right on our fuel. Which is something that can be tuned for, but again let's just ad more money to a swap that already costs double what a donor car will.

I'm pretty sure the 92-94 ej22t uses a different water pump than the 91s. The 91s were the only ones fitted with the factory oil cooler and use a different water pump because of that. But the NA water pump is also different and cannot be used because the thermostat housing part is pointed different, the NA model will interfere with the exhaust manifold.

In my car, which is now manual, the noise goes away when I push in the clutch. Thus taking the load off the drivetrain. I'm working my way through the bushings in the car, when I get to that point I'm going to get a set of the whiteline outrigger isolator bushings as well as replace the bent up bracket.

Also take a look at the mounting brackets for the rear diff support. My legacy does exactly what you are talking about from the rear. At some point in its life someone used them to jack the car up and one of mine is bent and rubbing the support outrigger. I noticed how badly mine was bent when I was getting tires put on the car last summer, until then I suspected a differential bearing. But I've since replaced the rear diff when I did my manual swap. edit: The steering wheel wobble sounds like what I had with my old axles as well. They were parts store replacements, until the manual swap as well because I got some used oem axles with the transmission. It was so bad I thought I had a bent or out of balance wheel, oem axles and it went away.

A rhd wiring harness won't be plug an play either, but I'm not going to argue it out. Here, go read this thread http://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?t=28560

Why? When you can buy a wrecked 02-05 wrx for half that from an auction. And have access to REAL tuning options from Cobb to open source tuning software. Not to mention parts and upgrades that are more readily available in this country.

Your best option is to find a complete donor car, in this case a wrx. You can swap all of the wiring and a lot of the interior stuff. As well as the entire suspension, crossmembers, and fuel tank making it a complete swap electronically.

There is no difference in them from your standard usdm ej22e. And the price tag in that one is absolutely absurd. You shouldn't pay more than $500 for a used ej22e. Also looking at that one in particular, it's from a first generation legacy, not a second gen like the ad would imply.

There is no right or left side to the head gaskets, you just have to make sure you have them mounted correctly on each specific side to match the oil and coolant ports. When you look at them in relation to the block you will see what I mean.

This is the one you want. I've replaced quite a few of the crap single layers with these from the 04-07 sti.

Your forester is a phase 2 engine, throw out the majority of what you've read about replacing ej25s with ej22s. They mainly apply to replacing an ej25d with an ej22e. Your forester will have either am ej251 or ej253, your only fully functional swap will be for a 99-01 ej222 or ej223. You will still need to get the single port exhaust manifold, as well as swap your original cam and crank gears and intake manifold to the new motor to avoid any electronic issues. Don't expect this to be as cheap as reported in the threads, the 99-01 ej22 is much less common as it only came in the 99 legacy L and Brighton and 99-01 non-rs impreza. This makes it much more expensive to the purchase. If you simply need new head gaskets on your forester I'd recommend just doing them as it will be much cheaper.

If you can find one in a junkyard with the fog lights you can pull the switch and wiring pretty easily, in most cases they were an option installed by the dealer. The switch can come from any 93-97 impreza as they all have the same dash. But if you're wanting oem fog lights they need to be from a 97-01. The 97s were a weird mix, old style interior and updated exterior.. The same goes for the cruise control switch, but you can use cruise parts from an impreza, legacy or forester.

That's the way my legacy is too, but the impreza dashes are quite different.

If you posted a video I'm unable to see it. But that's probably more to do with being on my phone. So going from memory there are slots for options that you may not be equipped with. One could be for the factory option security system led, cruise control, fog lights, and that sort of stuff. I am having trouble remembering exactly how many slots there are on my nephew's 97. It also stands to reason that since subaru used a bunch of parts for both usdm and foreign market cars that one slot could also be for the jdm wrx sti intercooler spray system, driver controlled center diff (if they had them in that era) and other things that we never had access to.

If you have an android phone I would recommend getting a cheap bluetooth scanner off eBay and downloading the torque app from the play store. I've been using one for about a year and a half and it has served me well. I think I paid something like $15 for the scanner, and the basic app is free.

I have no experience with the ej18 as far as the flex plate goes. If it doesn't you can use the torque converter from the ej18 trans on the ej22 trans.

My memory may be incorrect, but I think it's only the fwd 5mt impreza that has 23 spline axles. All the phase 1 tranys have the same electrical connections that I've seen. You should be good to go.

All the joints that I've seen from 90-96 are the same. The stay and rear mount bushings are also the same for all awd 5 speed tranys until 07 (possibly newer but I've not worked on them).

You can always get a new oem shortblock for about 2k. And I'm sure if you scour around some of the other subaru forums you could find a good used one to rebuild for a decent bit less than that.

Best of my memory it wasn't a terribly hard couple of combos to come across. I know the 2wd ea81/legacy works, I actually did doj and cv ends to make an ej knuckle 5-lug 25 spline axle. I'm thinking the 4wd and ea82t cups will interchange as well, best way to find out is to get your hands dirty like we did in the old days, or search some old retrofitting threads for our old dirty work lol. edit, I do remember the 2wd axles HAD to be oem, aftermarket replacements were/are the same as 4wd.

It would be far easier to swap the inner axle cups than the stubs from the transmission. There are some old (10ish years ago) posts on the forum that detailed how to do it and which specific axles were needed. I myself made a set in 05 from 2wd ea81 axles and early legacy inner cups.

Basically what you need to know is bore and stroke (99.5x79mm), combustion chamber volume (41cc), piston to deck height (.05mm above for ej25d), piston dish (-8cc for 96) the variable will be the head gasket thickness (convert the measurements to metric for accurate results). Plug your numbers into this one. Just make sure to select the metric setting up top. http://www.csgnetwork.com/compcalc.html Also, consider that if you go too much thicker you'll be affecting your timing as all components are designed around stock measurements.