86BRATMAN

Difenitely not. I picked up the supplies I needed a little earlier tonight. Barring more rain tomorrow it should be fully fixed, even with my temp crappy fix the cel is gone.

There are people who have ran staged clutch kits(stiffer than the stock 2.5) through cable system. The hydralics is just simply for smoother opperation, and less possible breaking of stuff. I personally wonder what too subaru so long to convert them all over to hydraulic, Honda for one has been cable free since 1994 through the entire line. There isn't any issue with head clearance, or anything like that, the cable doesn't come close to the heads in all reality.

Since you'll have the engine out to replace the seperator. It would be a good time to do the rear main, and all the front seals and t-belt. Check the seal on the transmission for seepage while its apart and replace acordingly.

Actually those are hub caps, lol. The 94 GT will have these wheels.

Here are two links to the USRM write ups for converting to an lsd. The first is text only, the second has pictures of what it should look like along the way. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49919 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=66430 Keep in mind for a true lsd 3.9 rear end this is the best option. In the US market we only recieved 3.7 lsds. EDIT::: Gah, beaten by a minute...

If I can't find the propper pins, would the solid metal crimp connect w/wires soldered suffice?

I believe the pins are ok, but I'll check into finding some at various places. I've got the carpet pulled out, and all but the driver's seat out, and I followed the wiring up to where I can reach under the dash. Just think... If that old guy I got the car from had internet I wouldn't have an XT now

I like the handed down cars(even if you have to purchase them), you know the service history well. And in my case, you've done most of it, lol.

Thats a good looking Outback. Congrats on the buy. You've definately come to the right place!!!

It is very possible that your cat has failed then. As you know the point I was getting at is the ecu's sensitivity to no oem o2 sensors(adding this purely for searchers). I have seen them go back in the 70k mile range, but not on a subaru, on a pig rich jeep. I believe a shop with emissions testing equipment would be able to verify catalyst failure.

It should be a pretty straight forward porcedure. Just make sure you remove all the screws, setting the tilt all the way down will help get the bezel out without risking damage. And don't tug on the wires too much, although the car is fairly new they could be brittle from heat when the car is parked in sunlight.

What replacement o2 sensor did you use? That may be part of the problem again...

Alright, my interpretation of the ohm meter was flawed. There is a definitel dicontinueity somewhere between pins 49 & 50 and injectors 1 and 2. To test the theory I temorarilly tapped into the wires directly off the ecu, and ran them to each injector. The car fired on all four, probably for the first time in years. AH its a beautiful sound to hear. Now, would it be best to run new wiring from the ecu, properly soldering the connections. And using the same gauge wire(looks to be 14 or 12 ga but I'll be sure before doing anything) or to try and track down the break and repair there?

The pedal boxes are different. I'd go with a cable personally, but thats just what I'm use to. The legacy will have the correct holes for each type already in the firewall, with rubber plugs covering each since its an auto car.

Nice numbers guys. I notice it was on a Mustang dyno, my experiance has shown about 10-15% lower numbers from Mustang as opposed to a Dynajet or Dynapac style dyno. For compataive purposes, a friend of mine had his 100% srock 05 WRX dynoed on a Dynajet about a year and ahalf ago, the figures were 191HP, and 196ft/lbs.

Since 60 and 61 are supposed to be grounded, and 49 and 50 checked out, or seemed to with the meter I have. Is there a chance that part of the resistor has gone bad? If so where is it for me to check?

Can you be more specific as to where the hole is, a picture would be nice too if you can get one.

That sounds about like every subaru I've ever owned. Actually, difficulty with reveerse has been in every vehicle I've owned that has been a manual. I don't think there is anything wrong with your clutch, just the nature of the cars.

Now that I didn't know... Kinda makes me consider an xt6 tranny and using my 3.9 vlsd.

84 Supra's were never turbo'd. And they were all inline 6's. I'm gonna say it is a nissan v6 though...

Your knuckles are the same as ob knuckles. So just bolt in the new strut spring combo, and go for an alinment.

Not real rare, Brighton model Legacies never had disc rears. But to answer the question short answer yes. Longer answer 95-99 legacy rear wheel bearings and hubs are stronger than regular wrx stuff. Get a rear hub setup from any legacy that range, and swap the rotors, caliper brackets, and calipers to them. You can do from an rear this way. I recently swapped my mom's 98 L to the two piston fronts from a 91 turbo legacy, and the difference was amazing.

*que senseless color joke* Just paint the whole car yellow. You'll never have to worry about horsepower again...

A $30 "turbo" muffler, and some new piping will give you the best increase for the money you can spend on it. It won't be super loud, not like a glass pack or canister("ricer") muffler. And will give you a nice boxer rumble. IMHO almost anything is better than stock.

Visit www.tailofthedragon.com has info on the roadway that is The Dragon. And directions how to get there, and stuff you can do.