86BRATMAN

I would do a simple test of the fuel lines. Take off the line from the pump, and blow the line out with fairly low pressure, compressed air. Do this using the line from the top of the front filter. You could have line blockages, causing the pump to overwork itself, making it get hot and cut off.

Yours sounds about in line whit what my 90 wagon 5mt awd got highway(55-65mph). Mom's 98 L auto accomplished 430mile when the light came on on a road trip last weekend. Interstate(75+mph) no a/c all windows down. The 98 has 174k, on original o2 and plug wires as well

Gen2... I know somebody who is wanting one kinda bad...

Probably because those are both 86's.

Congrats my friend. Blu is looking good. I absolutely love that color too!!! Hopefully that new intake will give him a mean growl to match his rugged good looks:headbang:

I should revise and clarify my statement... Underpowering alone is not the culprit. But in higher sound levels, where an amplifier isn't used, the distortion effect overheats and burns out the voice coils of a speaker. Using an amplifier of close rms ratings to speaker, will allow the use of lower volume settings. And in turn reducing distortion, and not overheating the voice coils.

Good info there on programming the remotes too.

So... Which one are you guys bidding on:-p

And making more than one post is unneccessary, link to usrm write-up is in your thread in retrofitting.

There are some scans from various years us and jdm brocures here on the board. Not sure who exactly you need to contact to use them. But you can check them out here. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/subaru80s.html

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50400 Pretty much covers it.

Looks good. But why would you want your brat to look like a truck:lol:

Yes there is. STi group N Engine:https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=11&products_id=657 Pitch Stopper:https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=11&products_id=660 Tranny:https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=11&products_id=658

I'm not meaning to use a nissan maf. What I'm talking about is an adapter that bolts to the stock maf, and allows use of conical type filters.

I've often wondered this myself. We drive directly by it on our trips to Chicago. You should try to find out. I'd be up for the trip if they do.

You cannot bypass the maf sensor, your car will not run. You could get a boot to go between the tb and maf, and then a nissan maf adapter and non oiled cone filter and install it from there.

Something about that just screams at me... Telling me run away... I'd go with the '80 as well, take all the good stuff from the 84 and send it packing.

Did you go stock replacement on the mounts?

Agreed, the chrome bumpers were short lived though, but they do look really good shined up.

Or the sensor that turns the light on has bad conection, or is dead. The turbo doesn't just "turn on" with the light, the boost sensor turns the light on when 1psi of boost is detected. Use the feel of the engine to determine if you are still making boost, or if there truely is a problem.

Thats a good looking wagon there. What sort of ignition issues does it have?

Nope, ea81 rx's are 2 door only. That kit is a mystery even to the person who made that site.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75028&highlight=radiator Here's a thread with some pics of the modifications.

I've been told that Sears will send off your Craftsman torque wrenches for recalibration at no charge. They are not lifetime replace, but they are lifetime re-cal.

Most of the ej radiators have been fitting by modding the lower support. They sit so close to the motor anyways that adding the lip may be asking for trouble. The power steering lines may swap from ea to ej at the rack itself. Haven't a clue to whether or not that'll work though, but its a thought.