86BRATMAN

I'd recomend finding a new mechanic because that is untrue. All subie motors since 97/98 are interferance and are equally prone to bending valves if a timing belt breaks.

I got mine for $250 in rough shape, but with a spare ej22t with blown h/g to boot I couldn't complain. I resold it local made money, and kept extra engine...

Good catch. Now that I've went back and looked at the manifold. The idle screw is grease covered in the first pic.

So, basically, you want an complete ej22t... Plan for about 500-800 depending on miles and such.

I'm not well versed in the ea81t setup, but you should be able to adjust the idle. First off check the tension on the throttle cable, if its too tight it will cause high idling. If this checks out, then look to the adjuster screw. Pic from above manifold. For the inconsistant rpm, read up on shaft play in distributors. You can search the board. It may be in the early stages of play, and getting a rebuilt one may be an option if it is. Or it could be tranny related.

Most legacy with rear discs will work, you'll need hub, rubber brake line, caliper and bracket, all the e-brake hardware(inside the center of the disc), and backing plate(sound sorta familiar?). The e-brake cable from the drums will work for the discs. Might takle a little more time, but not much more I would imagine. Will need an alignment afterwards though.

Jumping the gun on that one, lol. They had three perfect H's on an xt turbo, but the fourth was one the exact point of impact, and under the car... A local guy thinks he has some up on his hill, he's supposed to check for me tomorrow. If all else fails I know where a set of 84 4 spokes are.

The ej22e n/a open deck block with a set of ej22t pistons will hold a safe 300 hp with the right tune.

Connie definately knows her stuff. Don't doubt that for a second.

Only thing missing from your attached pic is the door lock cyl. Most likely the rod that connects the cyl to the actual lock mechanism has broken the plastic retaining clip. This would let the rod fall out and the lock cyl turn like you described. Do you hear any excessive rattling from inside the door?

Thats a good one... I do understand your point as well.

Did she live in another country. Because we never got a turbo between 95 and 04 in the legacy line-up.

I don't need the extra wiping room for height purposes. Its just a safety concern for me. I want to see as much as I can when its raining.

Wow, thats an impressive list there... I must see the fleet someday

That is amazing work. Remenisent of dad's work to the 90 legacy that became known as the ducktape warrior. And later just the warrior, because I took off the duct tape when he gave it to me, lol.

Your compression ratio will drop into the mid to upper 8.*:1's IIRC. So you will drop a good bit of power. You can run a complete ej22 in place of the ej25 without any issue, other than egr system.

That only matters to the transmission. Hub end is the same on all of the ea82 turbo or n/a.

Sounds like you might be in need of a new radiator. Has this one ever been changed?

You can't tell an o2 problem with a visual inspection. Unless its got a broken wire, but the cel would most likely be constant if that were the case. You can run it with a bad o2 with no bad problems other than suffering fuel economy. If the dealer read the memory they should be able to tell you what the code was for.

Is everything lined up back there? And can you get it in any at all, I've had trouble getting everything in perfect alignment before when putting in ea81 axles, I have no real experiance with ea82's but they aren't too different

That could be interesting. I'd have to see it with the shadows and reflections before I'd really like or dislike it. What color are the wheels going to be?

Rough it up a bit with some medium grit sand paper, and give it a couple coats of 3m's adhesion promoter, or something similar and you should be good to paint them.

Thats not limited to subaru though. Cars with 4 wheel disc brakes and caliper activated e-brakes have the same system. Like all of the honda/acura lineup with 4 wheel disc are the same system, just on the rear.

You can get it close yourself, getting it dead on perfect will be difficult. You've got to adjust the tie rod end on at least the right side. I would honestly leave it to a shop, because they have the equipment to see how far out it is, and if its limited to one or both sides. And then get it straghtened out. I would only pay for a from wheel alignment. Most places will tell you they can't do the rear. Or tell you they did, but not touch it.