86BRATMAN

I've found that a small chisel works extremely well to wedge into the crack in knuckle. Just be very carefull, they don't like it if you wedge too far. And yes, a good penatrating oil is a must. Don't bother with wd-40 or liquid wrench, you may as well squirt water on them. Would probably be in your best interest to loosen, but not fully remove the nut holding the ball joint to the lower control arm(19mm IIRC). Then remove the pinch bolt(14mm IIRC). Get your wdge of choise andstick it in there, lightly tap it so that tension is removed from the knuckle and the ball joint. You can use a floor jack and piece of 2X4 and jack up from under the hub to pull the joint from the knuckle. Then remove the castle nut from the threads. Clean up the part of the knuckle where the new joint will go, and clean out the threads for the pinch bolt. Insert new ball joint into lca and start the nut. Then position the knuckle on the top of the ball joint. Make sure it is straight in the hole. Use you floor jack and wood and jack from the lca untill the new joint is properly seated in the knuckle. Install pinch bolt, torque the castle bolt to spec, install cotter key. Put the wheel on, lower the car, and you are done.

Auto, 99, 4800 http://saltlakecity.craigslist.org/car/384615146.html auto, 98, 3600 http://saltlakecity.craigslist.org/car/385302278.html 5SPD, 00 RS, cobb intake and exhaust, 4-pot brakes, 7000 http://saltlakecity.craigslist.org/car/384182490.html 5spd awd 94, 2000 http://saltlakecity.craigslist.org/car/374038030.html Just a few of the cars listed on SLC Craigslist...

First year wrx was 02. "The Bugeye". If you look around you can find them in the 5-7K range with high miles and probably not perfect tranny. They have a bad habit of breaking gears, and destroying synchros if the owner isn't careful with them. You can find early model impreza's for under 1k just about anywhere you look.

I've used some of the automotive variations of a spot free rinse and dry type stuff. I never was pleased with them. At least on black cars there was still some spotting. I might have to give this a try.

It might be worthwhile to bypass the regulator that is near the pump. I've read that the pumps are supposed to be the same. And that the regulator is set differently. It could have been wrong infomation, I won't swear by it. But the ej fpr is on the fuel rail. Making the stock regulator by the pump unnesseccary, and very well could be part of the problem.

I'm not saying it would change it, it is recommended for 96, right? I haven't read much on that year motor so I'm not sure if its required or not. But I've built motors for several different cars, and seen many different levels of build up on the pistons and heads. It really doesn't take much to increase compression by a few tenths, and a few tenths can be the difference between grades of ocatne level.

While most people say this about 10 psi. Has anyone ever done it? Most of the people who have them, keep them relatively stock because of the lack of replacement parts.

The magic of carbon build up increasing the compression ratio. You think that the carbon lining on the valves and pistons doesn't add up?

Hey Scott, Here is a thread on the subject. With a good link to the aeromotive world. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=35174&highlight=ej22+distributor Shannon

Believe it or not, there is less wind noise with the plate removed from the scoop. Removed from a friends 01 RS, and it was noticably quiter at highway speeds. It did get a hell of a lot of water in there though with it gone.

Rustoleum Paint Job? Would be more cost effective, and better protection.

Makes sence to me. In theory, higher boost levels making more heat in the engine, causing the metal to melt. Falling out and getting blown into the turbo. Right?

Thats actually not a bad idea...

You saw that rear one on the hatch. It likes to dance for me in the rain:grin:

An unhooked maf will do that every time.

except for that one night somebody posted like 40 times in a row:dead:

I doubt it'll have the fame and notoriety of that accidental double post, of which we all ignored like the title said to...

Now if dad would just listen to me about this, maybe his truck wouldn't be so loud on startup

And then it's bye bye post count.

Two words. Rust Belt.

Here's another thread about it. Maybe we can get some more posted up. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=76666 the only hatch that can park under Turbone's -Shannon

Ftmfw

Post count?

Honestly. I don't have a clue which is which. If you could find the switches you could just test them out.

My god, WHY!!!