bendecker

I've always used a C-clamp and a block of wood.

I read this thread eons ago and have always wondered how it turned out. So... ditto... anyone know the outcome?

I'm waiting for the reading to include the words "now available in the US" A diesel outback or forester would be perfect for our family and I'm nursing along two very old Subarus, hoping the diesel is available before they croak. -Ben

Thanks for the link to the old thread. However, I found the pictures in this one invaluable. Great info, including the tool pics. Thanks.

Depending on how big your machine is, there is demand for dash caps. Coverlay used to make them for Gen1's and, I would assume, Gen2's. They were relatively thin ABS and they made dashes look brand spankin' new. -Ben

A thought on security screens: unlike a trunk, which always looks the same (empty or full), a security screen says "there's something here the owner doesn't want you to see". It doesn't matter why it's pulled, it always looks like something valuable might be under there. I learned that the hard way when my wife pulled the security screen over our laundry to keep the sun off of it. A bashed-in rear window later, the bad-guy found nothing but clean socks, and I had a big mess and a bill for a new window. So, we never used the screen after that. If anything of value was in the wagon, we covered it up with other stuff. Probably won't work in your case, but it's something to think about before you put a lot of effort into it. -Ben

Life and the recession got in the way of my fun. BUT, I finally was able to make some progress on this. I got some Gen2 stainless/chrome that Brat82 so nicely sold me (NOT easy to find in So Cal). While the concept of putting them into a Gen1 is a good one, the results are a decent compromise at best. Here's why: 1. The side vertical pieces work pretty darned well. They don't quite have the curve that the Gen1's have, but with a little trimming, I was able to get them in quite nicely using a 2-inch wide plastic putty knife. They look great. 2. The bottom, horizontal piece is significantly longer than the original and the curve is different enough that I could not get the metal into my gasket without some dimpling in the first 8 inches of metal on both ends. Also, the curves that fit the original gasket best are on the far ends. In other words, to minimize the dimpling, I had to trim to length by cutting a piece out of the middle of the piece and leave a seam. This is an OK compromise for now, but but I'd still like to get something better eventually. 3. The top horizontal piece is not long enough to fill the space at the top of a Gen 1 windshield gasket. If you had two Gen2 bottom pieces, you could probably trim one to fit fine, but I had a heck of a time finding one set, let alone 2. For now, I'll probably live with my old plastic piece as it was the only original piece that was still in OK shape. So, hopefully, I'll be able to resurrect the idea of making some new pieces out of stainless sometime. For now, it looks far better than it did, which is great. BTW, the gauge of the Gen2 metal is very, very thin. If I were to make some, I'd beef up the gauge a bit. -Ben

Yes, it's an MT (I edited the post to make that clearer... oops!). I'll try the fluid check. Thanks. On a side note, it was worked on a couple of years ago by a local garage who, in turn, subbed the transmission work to a shop in Los Angeles. I'm looking for the receipts to see exactly what they did to the tranny (assuming they spelled it out -- not too happy with that shop, but that's another story...). -Ben

Hi Sube Gurus! Hoping for some constructive opinions here. I have a 1993 Impreza from the days when they offered 2wd or AWD. We bought it brand new with 2wd and a manual transmission. It's got 190k miles on it and the transmission is starting to make a grinding noise that's pretty darned loud and sounds like a blender making a smoothie. The noise only happens under load and in all gears, but is most noticeable in the lower gears (probably due to lack of other road noise). As soon as I let off the gas, the noise goes away. Not related to the clutch in any way. Any suggestions? I'm a bit reluctant to put a lot of money into it because it is just a 2wd, but it's been an amazingly reliable car and it's gonna hurt if we get rid of it. The engine is in great shape. A used transmission? Would it be psychotic to try to fix it myself if I know for sure what the problem is? Perhaps another year's transmission that I could swap into it? Thanks in advance, -Ben

Do you mean the one that follows the contour of the bed with the louvers on it? If so, I may have one that will never see the back of my Brat again. -Ben

Other than the rollbar, I'd swear that was my 81 :-)

Welcome to the club! I'm also in So Cal and am the proud owner of three Subarus, including an '81 Brat. I know of a few other Brat owners down here and we are all happy to live in the "rust free" zone. Pics, please :-) -Ben

I've heard nothing but good things about just dashes on the net. Although I'm intrigued by the idea of a vacuum forming table. Maybe after I retire sometime in the next 20 years...

I have one of these caps on my Brat. They were made by Coverlay and are made of ABS plastic. Mine finally cracked over time between the windshield and the defrost vent, but it still looks far better than the dash that is under it. My only experience with molded ABS plastic like this is the "old school" (and maybe still the "only school?") way -- get an injection mold made and have a run produced. Injection molds are not cheap, though. Perhaps there is a less expensive alternatives these days...? BTW, I often thought that it would be interesting to try and reproduce them out of fiberglass, or the whole dash for that matter. I've seen many a dash made from fiberglass on the web and they look pretty sweet when properly done. Then again, I'm still dreaming of finishing up my bed liner

Thanks for the pics. Keep 'em coming. Rats are little terrorists! -Ben

Mine's an '81, so I can't speak for later years. However, if memory serves me, my original bolts on the top and the bottom were the same length and size at one time. There are two tabs welded at the top of rear window with nuts welded between the tab and the window. I used the original mounting bracket and put in the angle iron from left to right (as facing the window from the back). There used to be four small pieces of steel on each side that angled in from the bed to to the bracket. The were welded to the bracket and to the bed. I removed those angled pieces years ago when I needed the Brat more for hauling than for passengers. When we welded the two long pieces of angle iron to the original bracket, it made the bracket sit about 1/2 lower than it originally did with the welded-in smaller pieces. That made the hand holds just barely rub against the metal caps for the shocks in the rear that poke up above the wheel wells. I was able to work around it (with a full-length spacer), but anyone wanting to make a removable setup like mine should avoid making the same mistake. Other than that, I love the setup. I can remove the seats and have full use of the bed without the bottom headrest brackets sticking out. Perhaps someone has a good pic of how a headrest bolts in in a later model Brat...?

I never liked the way the stock headrest mounts at the bottom stuck out into the bed, so I welded some flat steel in place and used two aluminum spacers: I have some pics here: 1981 Subaru Brat Restoration Tips and Tricks

They're hard to find in So Cal. Anyone throwing a couple out, please drop me a line! I could use a couple of spares. -Ben

I'm very happy with my DIY bump-stop replacements: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=107266 As for the gas pedal, if it's the same as for an '81, I might be able to clone mine.

Between the lines in my original post was the assumption that if there was a US distributor, that they would be DOT certified (don't know if that is a requirement, but I'd like to think it would be). Definitely would never recommend wheeling on sub-par rims. I'd have to agree that a car would not crumple like that with an engine in it. A big block of steel like that doesn't magically disappear.

I was poking around today looking for a 4X140 miracle and came across this link: http://www.tradekey.com/selloffer_view/id/4303078.htm Looks like someone is still making pug replacement wheels (14-inch, not 15-inch). Wonder if there is a US distributor for them...? -Ben

Don't have one yet. I'm looking into making one from scratch, but am undecided on design and when it will actually get done (other priorities, unfortunately...)

I finished up the removable headrest bottom bracket yesterday. I cut off the old ones years ago (and later lost track of them) when I used the brat mainly for hauling. So, this is the replacement that I came up with. One thing that always bugged me about the old ones was the way they stuck out into the bed. So, for the remake, I made them flat and put a removable piece of aluminum between the vertical piece and where they bolt in. I bondo'd around the welds to make a smoother transition and once the bed liner is in and the cross-bars are painted, I think they'll look really good.

Only in the Northern West Coast -- "The Beast I Drive" has more Brats on his farm than there are in all of San Diego county!

Nope (although I wish I was!) I'm on Southern California.