pisces_0

Care to give me a rundown on that? I burned b10scan.iso to a CD, and told Windows to boot from that drive first but still nothing pops up. Basically, explain it to me like I'm a five year-old.

Did you have to boot your laptop in DOS, or can the program be run through Windows in the DOS command prompt?

ABS Pump You'll need the ABS pump that all the brake lines come out of and route to each wheel. With the RX never having ABS as an option (I'm assuming...) you'll have to bend your own brake lines and add a good bit of hardware to the engine bay. I'm with 91Loyale on this one. Much too much work to have something that was never really meant to be in that car in the first place. Besides, most all of the early ABS systems (late '80s - early '90s) left quite a bit to be desired.

Yep, got 'em both still. The turbo harness is fully stripped and modified for use in an EA82. One switched 12V hook-up, one constant 12V hook-up and a few underdash wires to connect and she's good to go! Quite a pain in the butt to do, but the harness looks almost like it came from the factory like this. The EPROM chip in the ECU has been removed and a ZIF socket put in its place for ease of removal/installation of the chip. Still quite a bit to learn about the fuel and timing codes, but work is slowly progressing. And are they for sale? As the saying goes, everything has a price...:-p

You all do realize why monstaru is getting so worked up, don't you? The EJ22T that came in turbo Legacies is a closed-deck, lower compression, tough-as-nails version of the dime-a-dozen EJ22E. They're getting tougher and tougher to find as many of the WRX/STi guys are snatching them up for builds. Quite a different engine than a N/A EJ22E. I pulled the wiring harness and ECU off of a turbo Legy in a local 'yard with the intention of coming back in a few days for the engine. Silly me, I thought it'd be around when I came back! Sure enough, gone and up on eBay that very same day.

Sorry, should have mentioned this in my first post. For all the turbo EJ22 info you could ever want check out Legacy Central: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/ Should be able to find the needed parts to piece together the turbo EJ22 setup.

I'm assuming you're planning on running the turbo setup, since that's what the engine is equipped with. That being the case, you'll definitely need a wiring harness and ECU out of a turbo Legacy. The turbo engine ran larger injectors, a different mass airflow sensor, different grind on the cams (not that it's a huge deal), lower compression and, obviously, boost. There are also a few sensors and solenoids that the turbo cars came with to deal with factory boost control. The long and short of it. Will there be a cost effective way to get the engine running? Probably not since you'll have to piece a lot of the needed parts together. Is it worth picking up the engine anyway? Most definitely. Those turbo 2.2's are stout little pieces. If anything you should be able to resell the engine and turn a profit off of it.

There are a total of three fuel pulsation dampers on an EA82. One right off of the fuel pump, one up in the engine bay between the fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator and one on the fuel return line off of the fuel pressure regulator. I've eliminated both dampers in the engine bay (the one between the filter and regulator and the one on the return line off of the regulator) with absolutely zero side-effects. I'd imagine they were put there more for the general public to keep noises down than for performance reasons. My opinion, bypass one (or all) as needed. You'll be fine.

'89 Service Manual - Part 1 '89 Service Manual - Part 2 -or- http://mshoup.us/docs/fsm/ Both have the same info, just different sources. The .pdf files are partial copies of the '89 FSM, but have all the needed info for the swap. The wiring schematics are on the last few pages of Part 2. Remember, the wires and wire colors I noted above were from the EJ22 wiring harness. You'll have to find their match to the stock EA82 wiring. Also, my wiring harness is from a '92 turbo Legacy and there's a chance your wire colors may be different. In the end, it's just a matter of stripping down the harness to the bare necessities and going through it wire by wire.

There's a HUGE difference between the various types of Bosch spark plugs. The Bosch platinums (all-white center electrode) in the single ground electrode, dual ground electrode and quad ground electrode versions are virtually worthless for all applications (Subarus included). I worked at an auto parts store for over five years and in that time I can count on one hand the number of people who actually had success with Bosch platinums. The Bosch "Super" plugs have a copper center electrode similar to a conventional spark plug and will give much the same performance. It's a standard 20K-40K mile spark plug and doesn't have any of the hyped-up crap the platinum series plugs have. Probably won't be quite as good as an NGK plug, but close.

I think you're looking for MAF sensor. It's shorthand for Mrump roast AirFlow sensor. If it's not plugged in, or not in the intake system at all, the car will run VERY erratic, if at all. It is in the car and plugged in, correct?

I think I see the disty now. Is that it on the rear of the right side (passenger's side) head? Doh, I knew it'd be something simple like that!

I have no intention of ever removing the fuel injection system from my EJ22, but this carbureted business has piqued my interest from a purely mechanical point of view. I'm also assuming you mean an '82 Ford Escort w/ 1.6L engine. Here's a pic of the distributor: Maybe I'm missing something glaringly obvious, but how does it mount to the engine and what drives the distributor?

NO!!! These wires control your igntion spark/pulse and do not see a constant 12V. Leave them be and check to see that the coil is receiving a switched 12V as I mentioned above.

ECU pins F47-9 (cylinders 3&4 ignition) and F47-10 (cylinders 1&2 ignition) won't have any power/pulse with the key in the "ON" position. Only while cranking and running will they see power. Anyway, those two ECU pins go into the ignitor (which then goes out to the coil) so they're not the problem at this point. You need to check the main power coming into the coil with the key in the "ON" position. It should read 12V in every key position except for "OFF." According to my diagrams, and a '90 harness may be way different, but the switched power coming into the coil should be a yellow wire in the middle of the 3-pin connector. This wire should see switched 12V. Don't worry about the other two wires. They receive signals from the ignitor to control the ignition on this waste-spark system. Also, mods could you consider moving this thread to the "Retrofitting" section? It's got some good info for those working on an EJ swap.