mfolsom

My 85 GL Wagon had a mechanical clutch fan on the driver side and an electric fan on the passenger side. I removed the mechanical fan and installed an aftermarket 12" electric on the drivers side. It seems to work just fine.

My headlights are very fogged up on the inside and I can't seem to find replacements. Has anyone retrofitted sealed beam headlights into a composite headlight system? Mine are so fogged on the inside that I have to run high beam just to see at night. It doesn't even seem to bother oncoming traffic.

I don't post often but always turn to USMB when my 85 GL Wagon acts up. Thanks to all who post problems and solutions. Sunday we were on the way to the grocery store in the Sub when it just quit running. I was able to turn in to a driveway safely and started to look for a problem. The car would crank but not fire. I pulled a plug wire and cranked the engine but there was no spark. There was nothing more I could do on the side of the road so the nice folks that lived where I stopped gave me a ride home. The next day a friend helped me tow the car home and I began looking into why it would not start. The distributor was turning when I cranked and there was compression on passenger side so that ruled out timing belts. I put a new coil on and it still would not start. I had picked up an ignition module at the AutoZone when I picked up the new coil so the next thing was to install that. I had no idea how to change it so I took the distributor out and went to the workbench with it. In another thread on this board I found one little snippet about testing an ignition module. "...you could put a small low current 12V bulb (so we're not talking about a headlight or tail light - just a Radio Shack 12V bulb) between the +12V and the output of the igniter. (envision hooking it up across the coil but taking the coil out of the circuit). If the bulb flashes when cranking, your igniter is ok. If not, it will take a little detective work to make sure that you indeed are getting a periodic input on the igniter." I tried that with the old module and nothing happened so I figured out how to remove the old and install the new. That part was very simple and I would not have had to take the distributor out if I had known it. I tried the little test above but it still did not work. I may have misunderstood the instructions. I did notice the light bulb lit very dimly this time. I reinstalled the distributor, held my breath and turned the key. To my pleasure the car started up so I set the timing and all is well once again. What a great little car! I hope others who have the same problem find this note and it helps them. Mark

Are these still available? I'll take them if doubi2 doesn't want them.

They did offer to order them at the dealer here and it may come down to that. I checked 2 part numbers with them but at that time I was not sure about which one I needed. Now that I know, I can go back to them and order the parts. I have a request in at RockAuto for availability and should hear something back today. You've been a great help in determining the correct part number. Thank you Mark

Thanks you very much Now I need to find someone with WK1945 in stock. It appears the WK1945 is also ACDelco 18H153

That would be great if you can. I converted the rough measurment of the seal from around 34 mm ID of the seal. Update The WK1954 is waaaaaaaaayyyy to big. I discovered I already ordered it for the front calipers and it was on my workbench. The seals measure around 58 mm or 2 5/16 inch ID.

Yes, I am finding out there are very few "old parts guys" out there but I have had internet parts guys pull a part and measure something before. It is kinda hard to show up with goodies when internet shopping but I definately buy when they go to all the trouble of verifying a part. I've also been trying for 2 days to get an answer from Raybestos Brake on line. http://www.raybestos.com/wps/portal/raybestos aka Affinia group. One of the FHI numbers posted earlier did cross to the WK1945 but I have not been able to find anyone with them. I had an order in at RockAuto but they canceled it because the kits were backordered. I'd love to have someone local I could bug but the Subaru dealer here is pretty small and changes personnel often as well. I looked at the WK1954 kit and wondered if that had the 1 3/8 seal in it. I also looked at WK1945, WK1212, D351212, D351945. The WK2019 has 1 3/16 dia seals PartsAmerica had the WK1954 so I ordered them. We'll see when they arrive.

Wow! Don't ask SubaruGenuineParts.com aka Chaplins VW Subaru in Bellevue, WA for help. Chaplin's Bellevue Subaru 15000 SE Eastgate Way Bellevue, WA 98007 I have a whole long email thread that ended by being told I was rude and they "would not help me in any way, shape or form." If you don't have a VIN, don't bother with them. Mark

I cross referenced and even contacted GenuineSubaruParts.cpm but no one can help me without a VIN. If I could find someone with either of the kits you mentioned that would measure the seal I could probably get the right one.

I'm converting to rear disc brakes and looking for the rear brake caliper boot and seal kit number for a caliper that measures 1 3/8 inch diameter. These were supposed to be from an 88 GL-10 sedan but the kit parts are too small in diameter. It is definately not a Raybestos WK2019 kit. The parts that came out of the caliper are only a boot and seal. There was no spring clip in these calipers. The 1 3/8 inch kits I have found have the spring clip included. It may be that I need to use the spring clip but I wanted to be sure before I order. Any help is appreciated. Mark

Sorry If it's so bad, maybe it's time to consider a career change. I've had to do that. Just a thought but you might want to look at EEOC. Equal Employment Opportunity Commission (EEOC) Enforces federal legislation prohibiting discrimination in employment to ensure equality of opportunity. Good luck Mark

My carbed d/r 5 speed 85 GL wagon does not have power steering either.

Friday driving to work everything worked fine. It was like the carburetor elf jumped in and made things work. Saturday I took it apart anyway and found brass shavings in the jets, a 115 secondary main jet, a 190 secondary air jet and a 90 in the secondary idle. I also found a strip of metal attached inside th hole where the secondary air jet goes which I pulled out. It looked like a casting defect. I drilled out the 115 secondary main to match the 135 primary main jet and cleaned the whole carb, installed the rest of the kit and put it back on the car. I did check a couple of local shops for jets but nobody carries Weber stuff and the jets for Holly are totally different. I must have misread somewhere that the Holly jets would fit the Weber. With things the way they are now, the car runs fine and actually accelerates on the secondary circuit. Thanks to all for the ideas and support. Mark

Just tryin' to help out...