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My bad, I completely forgot about the STi / Tribeca / SVX 5x114.3 PCD. We do have them here, but in such small numbers I didn't think about them. For your two wheel types, I can't see the diameter of the wheels in the photo. I would guess the first one is a 16", so you need to make sure the others are also 16" (or larger). Note that different trim levels came with different wheel sizes (base model was 16", XT had 17", H6 had 17", and widths varied also (6.5" up to 8.5"). Personally I would use the 16" for snow tires and get some nice OEM 17's for the rest of the year.

Yes and yes. All Subaru's post-Loyale (1994) use 5x100 PCD so you can use pretty much anything (note WRX uses a higher positive offset, 53mm instead of the usual 48mm). Your only limitation will be clearing your calipers, so don't go for a smaller diameter wheel without confirming it will clear your calipers (typically the front caliper will be the limiting factor).

An 1989 GL will be a EA82, don't bother as it (a) won't fit without cutting frame rails, and ( isn't worth the effort. Either use an EA81 or a later-model EJ20/22 SOHC. I believe the EA81 will drop in ok on an 1980 BRAT, not sure on the EJ.

Welcome, and congrats on one of the cleanest garages I've ever seen!

The missing hose is as Mr Hooneru describes, it gives the carby warm air to pull from when the engine is cold (typically on start-up on cold days, so given your location you have a good 6 months to ignore it). The carb air cleaner has a thermal switch that moves a baffle from engine bay to exhaust pipe based on ambient temperature. Functionally the car will work either way just fine, but on a very cold day you might encounter fuel freezing if it wasn't connected up. You can also buy them from any SCA, Autobarn, etc, though they may be a special order now given the relative lack of non-FI cars on the roads (you will need to work out the length and diameter). And pick up a suitable clip to hold it to the bottom of the air cleaner, as chances are the clip is long gone with the hose. I remember fitting one to a VG Valiant running a Hemi 6 a few decades ago and it made a huge difference in cold weather running, but I am in Vic (and the Hemi 6 is a large cast iron engine that takes a long time to heat up, the Subaru alloy engines are much quicker to get to standard operating termperature).

Sorry, not sure on the seat belt interchangeabiliy. I have a Brumby, which is the MY platform. I briefly owned a L-series which was planned to donate its 5-speed box to my Brumby but I ended up getting a slightly later gearbox out of a MPFI L-series. (We just call them L-series rather than Loyale/Leone down under, as there were variants of the Leone (eg Royale)...)

I think it will fit if you change the grille also. The standard early SF Forester has the bonnet line as being perfectly straight, while the later SF (and the 2003 SG) has the centre part of the hood wrapping down below the top of the headlights. The late SF's also had improved headlights (multi-reflectors). The other option would be to pull the Forester GT hood scoop and retrofit that to your 1998.

If you're looking for a repair manual, buy a second hand FSM. They come up on eBay AUS for ~$25 now and then and are about 4x the detail of the Gregory's (which I would expect to be the same as the US ones you have attached). 1600 = EA71 (only a handful of AUDM MY's will have the 1600 (it was mostly found on the MY hatch which wasn't sold in AUS, and poverty-pack MY sedans), I don't recall seeing anything past about 1982 using this engine) 1800 = EA81 (OHV) or EA82 (OHC). Pretty much all MY's have the EA81 (1979-84 in sedans, coupes and wagons, 1982-93 in Brumby), and all L wagons have the EA82. You WILL have problems with parts purchased locally as many aftermarket dealer guides (eg. Repco, SCA, Autobarn) are wrong (the MY and L platforms get lumped together often, when there really isn't much common between them). And as the Brumby (MY) ran from 1982 through 1993 it gets very messy if you specify the year. Best to say it's a 1994 Loyale (stress it's not a Liberty) and you should be safe (I think Loyale went to 1994...just). Or try a junkyard, they're not that hard to find yet (I know of at least 2 nearby).

AUDM EA82's are a lot simpler than Jez's list - no SPFI, no turbo MPFI (on the wagons). I would be 99% sure Martin's is the bog standard carby version. Rockauto is my primary part supplier, simply because their website has no issue with non-US addresses and their shipping costs are generally pretty fair (not great). I've never had the wrong part supplied by them (except when I ordered the wrong part, and then they had no issue providing a credit). I recently ordered parts from Summit, and they (or technically their supplier, as it was direct shipped) screwed up. Summit at least told me to keep the wrong parts (return freight was 90+% of the value of the goods supplied), and they would supply replacements at no additional cost (including shipping) - which is something that Rockauto is very poor on (they insist the wrong parts are returned at the customers cost).

Ignition switch terminals ? I had a similar issue simply because one of the ignition switch wires decided to start to work it's way off the terminal block.

Silly question perhaps, but why not simply replace the NA EJ20 with a NA EJ25 ? Is it out of the running because of the EJ25's history with blowing HG's ? Surely there are options out there in MLS gaskets ?

I would say there are more 5x100 options than 6-stud for a BRAT sized vehicle. Most of the 6-stud are big heavy wheels for big heavy 4wds. Only the earlier utes have suitable wheels and even they are overkill. 5x100 you have Subaru, Toyota, VW-Audi (with a couple of exceptions in the larger PCD), Chrysler. 5x100 on a BRAT will have a problem with track however, as the offset is higher in pretty much all of the above. The VW/Audi/Chrysler options are probably your best as the others will sit ~20mm inboard of what you have stock. Spacers are an option but it's additional cost. Either way, I'd grab the XT6 rear end bits and put them aside. At some point you may want to upgrade from the dinky brakes that were stock, and XT6 is the best way forward.

The drilled size should be 14.13 (minimum) to 14.31mm (maximum), based on manufacturer's specifications for the design. Using a 14.0mm drill will mean the stud will be distorted when pressed into the hub (or the hub will be distressed and could distort). Using a size greater than 14.31 will mean the stud is not secured and will turn. That said, I'm happy for anyone to buy them without studs (saves me doing it, which takes me about 20 minutes a hub and I am not charging for my time) and do it themselves but if they damage the hub while pressing in oversize studs then it's their problem...

Spot on. The correct drilled size for a Legacy stud is 14.43 - 0.005" (according to Dorman and similar), which is a bit smaller than 9/16" drill size and larger than 14mm, hence custom size. The Legacy stud thickness is the same as the XT6, it's only the knurled area that steps up.

Gary is just being modest, he is a Elite Master of Subaru Your impression of more power is probably valid (somewhat), but the downside is longer-term damage caused by running rich and environmental damage by not running a cat while using unleaded fuel.

Hi guys, I've had a few queries on the status of these and sort-of posted in Brownie586's thread. Short update is the hubs were made (by mistake) with XT6 stud holes and I only found this out when the EJ studs arrived. So I had to order XT6 studs (drilling or reaming out the holes to the correct size here would be prohibitive, as the drill would be a custom-made unit (ironically I work for a (large) company that makes machines that make drill bits, but they don't sell internally so a custom-made bit would be a few hundred dollars for a one-off use from one of our customers), which are not held in stock in 100-off volumes. After some mucking around with Rockauto's customer service team, they eventually got in 100 pieces and they will be shipping across the Pacific shortly. There will be a slight price increase as the XT6 studs are more expensive AND more expensive for shipping (about $5 a pair).

I think I still have a pair of hubs unallocated - PM me if interested. I have had a delay in the stud sizes machined were to the old drawing (XT6) so I was delayed while Rockauto bought in 100 new studs from Dormer. These are now in stock and will be heading across the Pacific in a few days. I can also help with WRX front calipers, as I have 3 sets available (one pair painted red, one planned to be silver and one unpainted at this stage). In my experience you will need to upgrade the master cylinder to an EJ unit to get decent pedal feel - YMMV.

Usual Subaru problem, too much weight for the engine in NA form. EJ25 or 6-cyl is the way to go if you don't want to go the (relative) complexity of a turbo setup. As OP wants an auto (which Numbchux seems to have missed), it should be a straight-forward job on the EJ25 and well under budget if you're talking parts only. Also it won't affect your "go-kart" handling. EZ30 has been done - http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthrear.php?t=1697340 - but under $2k is going to be tough unless you are fabbing up everything yourself and have the time to do it. The other option is to reduce the weight, which will still get you a "quick, responsive car" - so far your upgrades have all been weight increases or at best weight-neutral. Have a look at what is available in after-market, light weight suspension parts.

Welcome! The side visors are often referred to as wind deflectors. A quick google finds companies like www.carid.com but a set unique to a Baja might be difficult (assuming the rear is different from an Outback, which I don't think it is?). The Baja Sport is the base model. Subaru stripped out the leather interior, powered seats, etc. The higher end model changed from Baja to Baja Classic when the Sport was added to the line.

Contact Gannon in northern NSW, phone 0431 051 332. He is a qualified auto elec and does this (he did it for my EJ20 > Brumby).

http://paintref.com/cgi-bin/colocodedisplay.cgi?year=1978&make=Subaru

Oops, I missed the "EA82" bit...

Here's the dash location, I would guess the cable should run fairly much in a straight(ish) line towards the carb.

I will run another set as long as there is interest. Supplier is happy to make in batches of 20 (10 pairs).

Just to make the price clear, it is for the Australian guys : $2755 AUD for batch of 10 sets, plus tooling cost of $3500 NTD (about $150 AUS at the time), means each hub pair owes me $290.50 AUD. Shipping from TW to AUS was free for me, and no duty either. To add studs is going to cost me $255 for 8 sets (that's all Rockauto have in stock at the moment at the $1.10 unit price per stud) landed in Australia ($187.97 USD = $245.19 AUD plus bank exchange charge which is about 3% or $10 AUD). That is $290.50 + $31.88 ($255/8) = $322.38 AUD. Which is pretty much my earlier estimate ($240 US with studs = $328.77 AUD). This doesn't cover my time to fit the studs, pack or ship each set. And obviously postage will be dependant on location. Payment by direct deposit (or PP if you cover the fees). For the 2 US guys, I would highly recommend I ship the two sets to one of you and that person on-ships the other set as otherwise postage for two parcels will be much higher.