dfoyl
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Posts posted by dfoyl
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There's a guy on AUSubaru who is in northern NSW who can strip the loom for you, and it is then a very easy job for a half-competent auto elec to hook it up. Don't know of anyone in Brisbane.
Auto to manual is easy, I did the same thing.
Adaptor plate - I bought mine from on here - check the classifieds section. www.sjrlift.com also sells them. There's a guy in WA (that's WA, AUS - not WA, USA) who does them also, but is pretty hard to get hold of. I'd get one from the US, they are fairly bulky but postage wouldn't be terribly expensive (it's aluminium and basically only a thin round circle, just a large circle!). You *can* make your own with a jigsaw and some drilling & tapping.
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Supposed to have the 2nd version hubs end of next week ex-Taiwan...will post them up once in hand...
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No real step by step guide exists as there are so many variables in donor car. Typically an earlier engine will be easier to wire, but if you want 100kw as a minimum your options are really EJ25 (an EJ22 will just scrape over the line, assuming it's not worn out - which is fairly likely as EJ22's stopped around 2000 from memory in AUS and most in junkyards will have about 300k on the odometer). Or EJ20T, which is another whole level of complexity (and will be DOHC, so you're into cutting the chassis rails, which definitely needs an engineering certificate). Try to avoid engines post-2004 as the wiring just gets harder.
So your likely donor car needs to be a SG Forester or similar with the EJ25 SOHC.
A carb isn't anyway near as hard to wire up, but you do need some special bits and you're leaving power behind (~10%) by downgrading to a carb setup.
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I have read early MX5 (Miata to the US readers) will drop in with a small amount of elongation. I have also heard early Mazda 929 buckets, but they have quite a thick back on them (unlike the MX5) and may restrict your recline options.
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Silly question, but is the hatch rubber the same as a wagon ? we don't have hatches here (a GLF would only be a MY coupe as far as I know), so I have zero experience in what is unique and what is common...
If it's a wagon, I think a guy in Queensland could supply a new one...
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On the backing plates, my initial mistake was assuming 2 of the 4 holes would line up - however I found that in fact that doesn't (quite) centre the backing plate to the hub. So yes, the best option is to use an adaptor or create a template and ensure the hub is EXACTLY centered. A ackyard mechanic solution is to elongate the two front-most holes to a point where the centres of the plate AND the hub do align, and THEN drill a third hole to mate up with the third hole on the trailing arm. And I guess weld a washer around the elongated holes to add some accuracy back to the two elongated holes...
And I'm still waiting on confirmation the new samples were checked against the stub axle I sent over - next week with luck.
Funny story on the splines. When I sent the original Crossbed sample, they had no issue copying the splines off an original axle (the Crossbred has been chewed out) - but they were also trying to copy the splines on the wheel stud holes. I had some strange emails back and forward where they were asking for a sample with good splines for the "small holes", until I realised what they were trying to do. When I said it just needed to be a drilled hole (and gave them a sample stud) it became a lot easier !
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Not sure on the QLD regulations, but typically you will need to upgrade brakes to suit the engine. My recommendation (and I am biased here, because it is what I did) is to get a beat-up SF Forester or similar as that will give you about 95% of what you need. Engine, gearbox (if you want to go EJ throughout, I stayed with an EA82 box and adaptor plate), brakes including front hubs, etc. You will need XT6 rear hubs (I can help you on those), and wiring loom cut-down (see Gannon on AUSubaru if you aren't confident in doing it yourself), and whatever else is needed to mix-and-match an EJ transmission to the rest of the car.
Note you will struggle to find suitable offset wheels if you go 5-stud - I found VW/Audi wheels were the best option. Subaru factory wheels have a much higher positive offset (typically +48 to +53) compared to the earlier Brumby/MY wheels.
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That should buff right out
Seriously, that would be a great candidate for both engine & 5-stud setup. All you need is XT6 hubs and an adaptor plate.
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Ford V8 ? Just because it is small by V8 standards, doesn't make it lighter or smaller externally than the rest of that family. Weight alone will be almost 500 lbs, which is 3x that of an EA81 (don't know the weight of an EA82, but I'd guess add another 20 lbs).
I'd look at a Rover 3500 V8 or even the GM V6, both alloy and a lot lighter than the cast-iron V8 option.
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I believe you can use the EA82 rack, with some modifications to tie-rod ends. You need to drill some holes into the k-frame to make it fit in either case.
The engine side would really be getting the right mounting solution if using an EA82. But finding an EA81 PS setup would be a lot easier for this.
Little bit of info in this thread (no photos though) : http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17231&highlight=power+steering
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They have the second set machined up, but lost the axle stub I had previously sent. I mailed up another one to them yesterday so they can do the final check before dispatching.
The first set (which are the Crossbred copies and don't have the extended support added in V2) are being tested on my Brumby and have shown no issues. I will switch them out when the new set arrive and these will be offered up FS (probably the next 2 weeks).
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All of the above. It's an extended EA82, which is harder to fit than an EJ (except for the adaptor plate requirement for an EJ). It has the EA82's usual issues multiplied by 1.5. If you want a little more performance, an EJ22 or EJ20 SOHC is going to be by far the easiest option. Remember the BRAT is light compared to most EJ vehicles - my ex-SF Forester EJ20 was pretty unresponsive in the Forester but is more than sufficient in the Brumby/BRAT body (the loss of 600 lbs does that)...
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I had the same problem with my Brumby/BRAT, the clearance is pretty tight. I found the best way was to (a) trim the cat sleeve, and (
add some washers under the bracket that comes from the gearbox that holds the exhaust system. -
HCM = Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam ? First time I've seen a Vietnamese Subaru enthusiast on here. Welcome and good luck.
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I think your problem will be offset, as most 6-stud donors will not fit under the wheel-wells on a Loyale (they will just fit on a MY). If you have fender flares you'll be fine of course (I know US laws are a lot more lax than down under, which says the wheels MUST be inside the fender line).
I used Pajero (US = Montero Sport) 16" wheels which were ok for an MY (except they weigh a ton). I *recall* Ford Courier utilities were one option which may work for a Loyale.
If you're concerned about speedo accuracy, you will need 195-50-15's or 195-45-16's to maintain within 1% (I can't recall 14's, but if you wanted 14's you'd be best sticking with Pug 504's than moving to 6-stud).
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Disconnect battery.
Remove a spark plug.
Feed some thin rope into cylinder head (about 2 foots worth).
Fit 22mm socket on breaker bar
Add extension to breaker bar
Turn until rope is "crushed" between piston and cylinder head
Turn a little more (add force as needed)
Remove nut & pulley.
Make sure you pull out rope and re-fit spark plug before re-connecting battery!
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Search "upgraded headlight wiring" in the historic forum, there is some good info.
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New pic with wheels (almost) finished (need to fit center caps, they are first gen Audi TT wheels) and WRX 4/2 pots fitted :
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Remember what happened when Datsun became Nissan ? (or Nee-san as the US guys pronounce it). Big sales drop b/c of the money and goodwill in the Datsun brand.
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Still waiting on the "final" version. May even have my Brumby back with the EJ finally all worked out on Monday too, to give the hubs a good testing. It's just taking longer than expected as the guys in the Taiwan office have to put "real" work in front of my "hobby" work
I was hoping to have some sets available to take to the US in a few weeks, but that looks unlikely at this stage.
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I assume you mean the completely-wrapped later model plastic bumper ? Maybe it has shrunk over time and now doesn't fit over the metal frame ?
Maybe take it to a paint shop or similar and put the plastic in their baking oven to make it more pliable, then quickly fit it to the metal inner frame ?
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1979-83 sedan or wagon will fit 82-86 BRAT front.
For the chrome (plastic) molding, I believe a mid-90s Chevy pickup uses the same profile. Best bet would be to wander into your local autoparts store and see what they stock.
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If anyone outside the US wants some of the above I am happy to help out with international shipping (I am also over in the US in June and October and could hand-carry to save on International shipping).
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Just as a general update, the drawings have been revised and a second pair are being made (hopefully this week). I am pushing to have them validated by the middle of May and then put up a group buy here and on AUSubaru.
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6 lug redrill wheel/tire combos
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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You also need the front struts, change the top hats across from your existing to the new struts. Modify the bottom arms. There are quite a few threads on it in the retrofitting section.
For the rear you need XT6 hubs, and either XT6 backing plates and calipers, etc, or modify any EJ backing plate to fit (which is changing 4 holes to 3 to suit the trailing arm). See the thread I started on EOI for XT6 hubs, there is quite a bit of info on the backing plate work required.