dfoyl
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Posts posted by dfoyl
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Try posting in the WTB area instead of FS and here.
1982 is chrome.
1983/4 is black painted over chrome.
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I believe the original (Crossbred) copy didn't have the chamfer. I'd prefer to keep it without the chamfer as it means more thread on the axle which is more strength. I had no issues fitting the hub to two original (well-used) MY hubs.
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Hi Nico, I have thought about that option but feedback earlier in this thread was it wouldn't fit as the OD would need to become bigger. So at this stage I am planning 5x100 PCD only.
I received my new studs from Rockauto on Friday, and switched out one original XT6 hub. Here are the differences between the XT6 and the Crossbred copy :
Obviously, some of the changes don't make any difference (eg. first photo with the ABS ring holes are not required).
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MX5 seats are supposed to fit, and will gain a little leg room over stock.
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The relay on top of the shock tower can be re-used for other purposes. I used one for a light bar (see my avatar photo), but if you have any other ancillary 12V power requirements (winch, etc), they come in handy and look factory.
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I would think 205's on stock 5" wheels would be a little wide, especially with a lower profile. Suitable width for a 5" is 155-185. A 6" wheel is 175-205. Maybe ok on a hellaflush Civic or AE86 Corolla.
(And yes, I'm sure several people have run 225's on a 6" wheel with `no problem')...
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Not yet Jules, but you will get a special price as the supplier of the sample (if you're interested)...
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I found an MY rear arm and did a trial fit on the axle (can't do much else until the new studs arrive)...
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The link provided shows up as "1987 TOYOTA VAN 2.2L L4" ?
I have had no problems at all with RockAuto. I've ordered quite a few parts from them, and the only wrong part was my fault (ordered STI brake pistons instead of WRX), which I was able to return (even with one bag been opened) for store credit. Their website is great (beyond a lack of photos, but most online sellers use generic photos for everything auto anyway), simple to use (search by manufacturer p/n or by vehicle). The only thing I don't like is their stock distribution, as pretty much every time I try to get a few parts they end up coming from 2-3 different warehouses and I get hit for freight from each.
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L-series will be fine, MY's have a lower positive offset and need about +25mm. So yes, late-model Subaru / Toyota / smaller VW / smaller Audi wheels will need either a spacer or after-market wheels or find something uncommon (like I did, with 1st gen Audi TT on a +31mm offset). Hence my original question on using 5x 114.3, as the offsets available on 114.5 (Nissan PCD) are wider than 5x100 PCD.
That said, factory MY wheels sit pretty far in compared to modern cars, so you don't need to run spacers (I ran early WRX alloys with no problems at all). And if you are going wider than stock, then the change in offset is countered by the additional width of the wheel.
Price I have only ex-factory at this stage. I am likely going to offer them through SJR for US market so freight costs are consolidated (shipping them individually from TW to the US would cost as much in postage as the hubs would cost to be made). For Australia/NZ I can get them freighted in quite cheaply and would be around $100 US delivered each (depending on duty, currency fluctuations, end location (eg. NZ, NT, WA would be more than east coast Australia), etc).
(If someone in AUS wants a set of spacers to give the correct offset using late-model Subaru OEM alloys, I have some practically new ones available (used only for testing)).
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My set didn't need those lug nuts, but a lot of the US stock seems to require it.
Can be found here: http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Auto-Part-Wheel-Nut-for-PEUGEOT_1485339121
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Yes, they should be exactly the same as OEM XT6 except for the larger studs. So an XT6 system (rotors, etc) will all bolt up. I would recommend updating to something more modern however, like WRX 2-pots (that's what I have done) (need to change the backing plate) or a H6 Outback (290mm rotor size) (need to trim the backing plate or change). Any EJ (except WRX STi 05+ & Tribeca) rotors will fit - I initially fitted the smallest Subaru rear disc rotor, which is 266mm.
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Wheel locator will be corrected in V2. Sorry, already packed up so I can't take more photos. I ordered some EJ wheel studs from rockauto.com this morning so they should arrive in AUS early next week with a bit of luck (Dorman 610-401 instead of XT6 Dorman 610-402).
Plating - no, I didn't think about gold zinc. OEM didn't have it, so I don't think it's a necessary cost to add.
Material - I am not sure, the spec is all in Chinese. I have asked for that info. The hardness is as per the original hub (OEM MY), so it won't bend or break.
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Picture time...
First "problem" is the hole size for the studs is a copy of the Crossbred, which used a stock Liberty stud instead of the correct XT6 stud. Which is bigger by about 0.2mm. So my Dorman studs rattle around. I'm starting to think it may be better to use the heavier studs after all, as there is still plenty of material and Subaru obviously increased the stud size for a reason (heavier vehicle)...there is also the probability that XT6 studs won't be available forever as I am probably about the only person who has ordered them in a few years...
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On the Peugeot steel wheels (jdkneppy), I assume these are the standard 14" steelies. The center cap cutout has two "ears" (like a rectangular box running through a circle). The OEM cap is designed to lock into place, and they are very difficult to find. When I was running them I looked for a long time and never found one, otherwise I would have copied them with a silicone mould.
What I would suggest you could do is search on eBay for the same size hole and clip them (or hotglue them) in place. Check seller deluxe-choice, I bought item #231342360737 for a set of early WRX wheels and they worked well. You need to pay attention to the inner diameter size, late model Subaru are 59mm which might be too large.
For powder-coating, I wouldn't recommend it. I found the wheels still rusted after about 4 years between the inner and outer parts of the wheel. And Australia is a lot more forgiving on rust than Oregon (no salt on the roads, no snow, etc). I would be having them painted with something strong, maybe like you use for the cabs of pickups.
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Hi guys, I am in Taiwan now and should have the first two samples (finally!) this coming Tuesday (with the correct Dormer studs fitted). I'll then be back in Australia the following week and will do a like-for-like comparison with the XT6 hubs on my Brumby. Second samples will have the corrections made as identified earlier in this thread.
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Good point, I didn't even think of that...this is why I need to have an original to compare against.
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That'd be awesome. All I need is my drawing marked up with the corrected dimensions.
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I'm heading back to Taiwan in about 2 weeks to get the samples. I ordered some Dorman 610-402 studs (2 sets) which should hopefully arrive before I fly over there, so I can confirm they will be the correct size.
i'll then be pulling down my Brumby to compare against the original XT6 hubs, given the info from wagonist on the difference between the Crossbred and the OEM designs. I'll run the samples while the drawings are updated with the OEM hubs, and then be ready for volume manufacture.
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The wheels I used for the 6-lug were Mitsubishi Pajero (Montero Sport in US), which just squeezed in the fender line. On a L-series they would stick well out.
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Lifted ? Unlifted on a Brumby (BRAT) I could squeeze 15's in with 205/50 tyres but it was tight. Anything bigger than 15's is really overkill on a car like an L-series.
I'm running XT6 / EJ now and am running stock 1st-gen WRX 15" wheels but am upgrading to 16" to fit 4-pot WRX brakes. These will be running 195/50 tyres, which also just about work out OEM rolling diameter so my speedo is accurate (within 1%).
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I have some XT6 hubs being made up now (just 2 sets for testing), I can put you in line for one set of them. See my EOI thread. This eliminates the "dodgy" method as described above
Note they are for 4WD only, I haven't even thought about fwd.-
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Jules, there is no such thing as an EA81 SPFI manifold - they were only on EA82 and retro-fitted to EA81 (you probably saw Tony on AUSubaru bought mine and used it on his EA81).
GD has a long instruction for retro-fitting the EA82 SPFI to EA81, it all should be pretty much as per the manual except make sure you keep the EA82 y-pipe for the oxy sensor (and the modified EA82 dizzy as per Jules' comments (and the manual)).
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>Note : The drawing is also missing splines for drive shaft, so you will need to make sure it will work with 4WD BRAT / Brumby with spline count to match ...
As the sample had the splines chewed out I cut down a MY rear drum with good splines and the manufacturer is using that for accuracy (and confirming the hardness, which is listed as 28-32 HRc and I have confirmed with an ex-GM design engineer that this is a hardness they would use in their designs).
I need rear disks, 6 lug hubs, 14" wheels and A/T tires. Please!
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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I would skip the EA rear discs and go 5 stud. You already have the EJ engine, your brakes should be upgraded to suit.