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The design is exactly as per the previous hubs - it was derived from a sample that I obtained from another member (toonga on AUSubaru). I had read they were identical to OEM XT6 hubs (my original XT6 hubs are fitted to my Brumby at the moment, which is as mentioned earlier still getting the EJ AC pipes modified) - I will have to check when I get it back. Either way, I'm happy to have changes made to improve the design as long as it doesn't affect usability for both MY and L applications. Let me know what you think is a suitable lip for the locator and I can have the drawing revised.

I got back from Thailand yesterday after seeing the manufacturer the week before in Taiwan - samples weren't ready as there were a few open questions - and yes, the dimension check of 99.5mm was one of them (I asked them to increase it to exactly 100.00mm - my guess is OEM accuracy). The others were relating to heat treatment (28-32 HRc was as measured on the sample, but they measured on the XT6 copy I sent (which had a chewed-out spline), so they are now checking against an OEM sample which had a good spline, the taper runout and the bevel angle (I gave them an OEM part to ensure accuracy, this is the wedge shaped piece in the center of the hub where the 32mm nut tightens up against). I also provided an OEM wheel stud so they can check the size provided is correct (I contacted Dorman for sizing and they wouldn't give an exact answer beyond the hole size should be 0.005" smaller, which equates to a really oddball size (.49" minus 0.005" isn't a standard drill size, the closest was a metric size from memory). On the question of provision for all three common PCD's, the 5x114.3 would need a larger diameter hub as there isn't enough meat left. However, what could be done is a pre-drilled pilot hole for those who wanted to go 5x110 (but they what would you use for the fronts ?) The disc mounts on the hub - well, I'd have to show you on my Brumby but it's STILL at the shop waiting for new AC pipes (last step in the EJ conversion)...then I can get it back and then I can fit the WRX brakes that I've had freshly repainted Rio red to match the body...

Rough cost estimate $85 US per. Still negotiating on volume. Samples next week.

I found the EFI y-pipe would not clear the drivers-side steering shaft from memory, it *just* clips it. With some trimming and bending it can be made to fit, but it doesn't fit as "stock" (at least on a RHD vehicle). I non-EFI may be ok (no sensor, so a smaller overall surround for the cat).

it will depend on the numbers (volume through EOI's) I get once I have the samples validated. I'll post up in the FS section when I reach that point. I also need to look into the logistics of shipping direct from TW into the US, as shipping individual sets will be expensive due to the weight.

Hi guys, I'm still waiting on my guys in Taiwan to complete 2 sets of samples (two different suppliers). I am currently o/s myself (NZ), but am back for Xmas and then heading over to the Taiwan factories in mid January to do an audit on them (my employee is sending me over for a systems upgrade, so I'm going to put aside some personal time for the hubs). Both suppliers are working on the stock 5x100 PCD versions at this stage, the 5x114.3 will come later depending on demand. Jeszek is correct on the offset, it is a lot easier to get stock wheels with the right offset in 114.3 PCD than in 5x100 (to suit an MY, an L-series is fine), in retrospect I would have done 5x114.3 on my Brumby...).

part time awd gearbox from the RX ? At minimum you would go from 4 speed to 5 speed - make sure the ratio is the same (I think RX might be 3.7 instead of 3.9, so you may need to switch the diff also)

>A fifth gear generally does not make you go any faster at same revs. Yes it does, 5th is .78 in a 5 speed and .885 in a 4 speed. That's a significant difference at 100km/h, though when you get to a hill you will need to drop down a gear a lot sooner >I find that 2nd gear of the four speed is so much better... You can notice the difference between 1.950 and 1.947 ? I would agree with the 3-4 on the 4 speed. 3rd was a good running around town gear (50-60 km/h), and 4th was 80 km+. With the 5 speed I spend more time sawing between 3rd and 4th around town.

Digging up an old thread here, but there are a couple of points I think I can add to. First, in rust-prone areas some people have upgraded to stainless caliper pistons (where available). I know for sure the front 4 pot calipers (2005-06 WRX in the US) are available, I don't know on the 1 pot Forester rears). The second point is the WRX rear 2-pots (non-Brembo / STI) are alloy, not cast iron - the body, not the piston! So that may resolve your corrosion issue. I have been personally rebuilding a couple sets of the 4-pot front calipers that came out of the UK, which would be a similar climate to you (I am in Australia, we don't see your weather here ) - and one set was terribly rusted. I had to pull them down to individual parts, 2 of the pistons were stuck in place and had already been vice-gripped by the previous owner so were damaged. I ended up twisting them out using vice-grips and a breaker bar. The rest popped out using compressed air but were rusted through. I made one good set out of 2 sets of calipers and replaced the other set with new pistons. I then had the calipers chemically stripped, then rust-treated, then wire-brushed all over. The cast metal will rust overnight if left outside, I am going to have them painted in 2-pak to stop the rust from re-starting. I have used rattle-pack caliper paint in the past and it works but it stains easily while 2-pak is there for good. The rear 2-pots on the other hand (which were sourced locally) need nothing at all - they are factory anodized black and still look as good as new. If you go down this path you will need to change your backing plate or use kartboy adaptors with your existing backing plate (I did the former, it is not difficult to change the backing plate).

Great writing and background, but it just shows the madness in not requiring a RWC when cars change hands in AK...

Just throwing the idea out, I've heard of it being done on other platforms. I'd recommend running down to a wheel shop and asking them (once you explain the unique requirements). The actual machining part would be quite easy...

JesZek, I assume you mean +40 offset not -40 offset The stock L-series offset was +55 (according to the web, not a FSM), which is almost the same as a modern Subaru (+48 to +53, depending on model). The Pug wheels varied from +20 to +35. That said, the stock L-series was pretty sunken in the wheel well, so a +15mm or so will still fit fine but in the OP's case they are going from +55 to +25 so it's twice as far as is ideal. Perfect fit would be +40, and I don't know any OEM wheels that had this offset in a 14". The Audi 100 from 1968-76 had +50 offset which would work, but the wheels would be as rare as hens teeth imho (and I don't know if they were 14" or not).

Agree, Pug wheels are perfect offset for a MY but will stick out past the guards on an L. The Pug's are a +25mm offset, if they are alloys you might be able to mill 8mm off the back (assuming there is enough material) to correct for the L offset (if they are steel you are pretty much stuck).

The other part I think most of are looking for (for a BRAT) would be the stainless tailgate trim, which really shouldn't be _that_ difficult to have made. Once the tooling is done the unit cost should be peanuts... I know of at least one person who has made up a tool to make it out of solid plastic (and then vacuum-metallise chrome the finished part).

There are four plastic parts I can think of that could be reproduced : 1. Air vents 2. Door handle surrounds (in all colors) 3. Trim endcap under tailgate stainless 4. Trim endcap under bed trim (where it meets with item 3) - I am looking for this one myself at the moment. Modelling it - are there 3D scanners that can make the drawing process obsolete - ie. can they scan into an STL format ? I haven't played with 3D printing enough to know the technology. My main concern with 3D printing is the roughness of the finish. I have trialled (for work) acetone vapour finishing and it works in certain designs but not others. The part I was doing was essentially like a very small (2 inch long) bath, and the bottom of the "bath" was very rough...

Probably has a 1990 stamp (build date) on the fender but was first registered as a 1991. I'd assume 1990 was skipped by Subaru due to poor sales in 88/89 leading to over-stock. (Don't forget the 1988's actually started delivery in late 1987, so they would have 1987 fender date codes also).

2WD Hatch 50L, BRAT 55L, Others 60L (wagon, sedan, coupe?) 4WD Hatch 45L, all others 55L. This is straight from the FSM.

Thanks guys, looks like the plan is to run 2 sizes - a larger batch of the 5x100 and a small batch of the 5x114.3 but with a larger OD. Will update next week when I get the feedback on the 5x100 sample and indicative costs.

I thought Chrysler stopped with 5 x 4" with the VG Valiant and the Neon, etc, were 5x100. I've thankfully never owned a Neon Can't run spacers legally here. I've heard of the machined drum option, and actually cut one down to the same size as a XT6 hub last night as my Crossbred sample from Jules (toonga) had a chewed-out spline - the amount of machining isn't worth it, you have to mill down pretty much every dimension and as you said you end up with no wheel or rotor locator.

Off a Tribeca or a SVX ? I should have mentioned in my first post that the offset issue applies only to MY's... To support the 5x114.3 I would need to increase the OD of the XT6 hub by at least that 4.3mm all round so there is sufficient material around the stud. This adds cost in three ways - raw material (though likely it will be from a common solid bar, so it may actually be fractionally less turning), additional drilling of 5 holes, and overall weight so freight costs go up. So I'd want to get at least some interest to support the extra cost in engineering. If no-one sees the value I'll drop out the 5x114.3 from the plan.

Hi, I am looking at making up a few sets (around 25, depending on interest and viability) of XT6 rear hubs in Taiwan, as Crossbred Australia did several years ago. The difference is I am thinking of making them with the factory 5x100 PCD, as well as 5x114.3 PCD for those who wish to run SVX/Tribeca front hubs - thus giving access to a much wider range of wheels (my problem with 5x100 on a BRAT/Brumby is the offset makes factory wheels hard to find - basically some VW/Audi & Dodge Neon are the only ones with an offset around +32/+35). 5x114.3 gives access to Jeep, large Chrysler, Mazda, Mitsubishi, larger Toyota and Lexus, Honda and Nissan wheels - and quite a few of those brands have plenty of models with suitable offsets. Thoughts ?

Pretty sure the ignition switch for tilt and fixed are different, my fixed column had the spades on the back for a plug-in design.

Hunting for reverse due to lever play (I know there's a quick fix for it, just never bothered). Passenger side defogger doesn't work (probably the pipe has fallen down out of the vent). Battery terminal occasionally comes loose and has to be twisted to start the car. If I drove it everyday these are all little things that would get fixed, but as I only drive on weekends the little niggles get left until they get too big to ignore (like the rust in the bottom of the A-pillar, that I had fixed last year).

Outback will need 16" wheels minimum to clear the front calipers.