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I have 1/2 a dozen sedan/BRAT/wagon front seals sitting in the garage that are going to the UK, I could get the ok from the UK owner to ship one stateside. He was buying another 6 from Phil's Rotaries anyway, so I don't see it as a problem (would just make the order 7). If it's a hardtop it's a different story, you'd need to buy it and ship to me and I could on-ship (I could consolidate with some other items I send to the US frequently to save on the shipping). PM me for address details, etc.

Also the cabin window angles. Brat front window is far less tilted than your Lexus, and your back is vertical. So less heat getting in to begin with, and the AC doesn't need to run as hard to maintain the termperature.

If you really want to stick with an EA box, get the adaptor plate from sjrlink (member on here), that's what I used and it was perfect. The shipping cost down under isn't bad as it's quite light being alloy and only a very narrow section. Re-engineering it locally will cost a fortune. In terms of regs, it looks like NSW allows a +20% increase BUT only of the same family of engine available in that body design (which means any EJ, regardless of size, needs a certificate).

I'm not familiar with NSW regulations on engineering relating to engine size (not kW) - in Vic it's no more than 10% more than stock without an engineering certificate ($$), but I do know your power-to-weight ratio as a P-plater can't exceed 130kW per tonne, which for a Brumby is pretty much that figure. So in terms of engines you can probably install a N/A EJ25, certainly an EJ20 or EJ22. In terms of wiring, given what you want, I'd highly recommend having a chat to Gannon in northern NSW. I went for a relatively simple swap (no ABS or cruise control), and Gannon's work made it a lot simpler. I would also speak to an engineer about the ABS in particular, as there could be all kinds of requirements. Putting an ABS system designed for a 1400 kg Liberty into a 950 kg Brumby isn't likely to be as simple as just dropping it in. Unless you really want it, I'd skip it. Your braking should absolutely be upgraded. The front struts can come from your donor vehicle (with some mix-and-matching of CV's and the top hat), your rears can use the donor vehicle backing plates (need to be modified) and calipers/rotors but the hubs will need to be XT6 (as Bennie mentioned, I should still have a set available from the batch coming in). Your handbrake will also change from front to rear. You might get away with a 4-stud rear disc upgrade depending on the engineer and your engine choice - an EJ20 is probably borderline, an EJ22 or higher I would hope an engineer would require the 5-studs. I would recommend the EJ gearbox, most EA's are getting long in the tooth and if you want awd you need a Vortex or RX awd box (very tough to find). Your existing box is likely the 4-speed, which is barely adequate for an EA engine. The later 5 speed from a L-series is much better. I believe the earlier Impreza's used a 3.7 ratio, which can match with your diff (it will probably be either a 3.7 or 3.9, but both are easy enough to find). Later EJ's used a 4.111 I recall. I have seen complete Impreza dashes swapped across into Brumby's. More work in terms of fitting, but it's an option.

Brisk driving - in a Forester with an EJ20 ? I briefly drove a 98 Forester with an EJ20 and brisk was not a word I would have chosen to describe it (though it was an auto)...

The head bolts are 100% re-usable. I believe a 99 will have a phase 2 EJ201 or EJ202 engine, but any EJ20 should be able to-use the head bolts unless severely damaged. They can be a curse to remove (EJ20 isn't too bad compared to EJ25), but a long thinwall OD socket is a good investment.

I will have 4-5 sets left from the final batch in the next few weeks, one set is already in the US and the rest are on the water to Australia.

Bennie, try http://www.profileplastics.com.au/

Jono, the ACL requires spare parts to be available for a "reasonable amount of time". Typical automotive spare parts worldwide is 10 years from end of production in my experience, which I think would be seen as reasonable in most cases (certainly for this part of the market, you might have a case if you couldn't get parts for a Ferrari after 11 years). The average amount of time from buying a new car to selling it is around 6 years, and the average car age is a little over 10 years. Subaru doesn't appear to be any better or worse than other auto-makers (hence the decision to stop supplying your EA82 oil pump).

Scroll to the bottom of the forums Jono, under site information. There's a thread in there explaining the reason...

This is unfortunately pretty common in an OEM GPS, though it is disappearing from more modern cars. One option I've used on other brands is to set up a toggle switch on the VSS (speed sensor) wire, toggle to open, program in your address, then toggle back. This tricks the GPS into thinking you're stationary, and allows you to program while the VSS signal is lost. Unfortunately you can't simply remove the VSS signal into the GPS, as it's used when going through tunnels, etc.

You need an AC pulley, the stock crank pulley is single channel. I believe there are three types (I've only seen two myself), one for stock, one for stock + PS, and one for stock + PS + AC. The AC runs on the one closest to the radiator.

On the 83mm crank, it's certainly an option. Offset grind your 79mm STI crank like Subaru did with the phase 1 EJ25, use EJ25 phase 1 rods to suit, and adjust your piston height. You'd need to check if you have to clearance the block, I'm guessing on an EJ22 it'd be a close thing. You should end up around the 2.6L mark at a guesstimate. Starting to get close to a FB25 in terms of bore x stroke...which would be a lot cheaper with an after-market ECU.

Speak to Michael Skeen at Wiseco (afaik JE and Wiseco are one and the same), he did my pistons for my (essentially) stroked EJ22 phase 2 which sounds very similar to what you are doing. The only difference was I started with an EJ205 and had it sleeved to EJ22 bore (partially b/c phase 2 EJ22's weren't available here, but mostly because this way I have an EJ20 block which means no engineering certificate for local regulations). I have a stock phase 2 EJ25 crank (as others have said, there is no difference b/w an STI and non-STI crank), high-comp (-5cc valve pockets) Wiseco pistons, and it runs beautifully on 95 octane (which I think is US 93 octane, as our rating system is different than US). I also have Delta 2000 profile reground cams, which the 2.35L EJ20 can handle with no issue at all on stock ECU. PM me for details if you're interested. An EJ22 stroker is a good combination.

If it's just a few holes simply remove it, clean out the petrol by washing in hot soapy water, and take it to a radiator repairer or a friend who can weld. They can weld it up (the material is thicker than a radiator or fuel tank, so it's not difficult), then paint it or (better still) get it zinc plated to stop it rusting again. If it's too far gone, as Jono said, a wagon neck is identical. Try row52.com and source one from a southern state like Texas where rust isn't too bad. The hardest part I find is removing the three screws at the top of the neck - the heads round out and I end up drilling them and re-tapping. The 2 (10mm ?) bolts at the bottom on the metal protective cover can also snap off if you're unlucky, so hit them with PB-blast or similar first.

Have a look on thingiverse.com, search for Subaru. Lots of work already done, I couldn't see the door handle trim cups but they might be in there somewhere...

There are several threads on this, and links to drawing files. The problem to date is that 3D printing at consumer/small business level does not leave a factory-quality finish, and requires refinishing. That said, I can see some opportunities in gen 1 and earlier (especially 360, R2 (Star), and so on).

Correct, it's a factory machining clearance to allow access to the bolts holding the two halves together. It's tiny on an EJ20 and larger on an EJ25 (I'm talking phase 2 here, although phase 1 may be the same). It is very tight on an EJ25, I had to buy thin-wall sockets to access the bolts (I could just do it with regular sockets on an EJ20).

Or $75 for a Volvo test drive apparently. I guess getting people in Volvo SUV's is tougher...

The paint looks in quite good nick for its age, especially for a Qld vehicle. If you are looking for some OEM alloys I know of a couple of Vortex's locally who might have a spare set cheap. If you plan on an engine rebuild in the future, and want a replacement oil pump, PM me as I have a local Subaru specialist about to retire who has one spare (they are almost impossible to find now, as there is no new replacements being made for the EA82).

Agree with GD. Yes, the first gen non-USDM Forester's had EJ20 SOHC (EJ20J to be precise, for most of 98, before switching to phase 2 EJ202), and they were gutless. I pulled a 98 Forester down and fitted the EJ20 into my Brumby and it was fine but in a vehicle as heavy as a Forester it was ... slow. This was an auto, which didn't help, but even so I can understand why SOA didn't offer the SOHC EJ20 in the US.

Yes, this is pretty common and I have the same setup as you (5 speed box with 4 speed shifter + GLF-5 knob). It's been several years, but I recall needing to weld the 5 speed linkage to the 4 speed shifter and BFH the top of the transmission tunnel slightly flatter than stock to avoid clearance issues. I think Jerry makes a kit for this ?

About $10 less by my calculations, $92 to the US vs $104.

Bennie, I believe Rhino Insurance will do something similar. Shannon's are owned by those SOB's at AAMI and can burn in hell...

That's about twice the local price. Ouch.