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PCD is the same. Offset should be the same. Size may be an issue if your Forester wheels are smaller than your Legacy, as calipers may not clear smaller wheels - but I'd assume you have 16s or larger on the Forester and there's only one Legacy I know of that needs 17's (Legacy GT).

As far as I know (and GD will likely prove me wrong ), all phase 1's should interchange. And all phase 2's should interchange. You can put a phase 2 heads & intake on a phase 1 block, and vice-versa. And you can run a phase 2 with phase 1 ECU (I am doing so, I have a early 98 (EJ20J) Forester ECU running a 92 EJ205 Frankenmotor).

I've not seen one, but they are still available locally along with Autotechnica. I bought one of the latter for a member from Guam and it looked pretty good, I believe the Nardi isn't quite as good in terms of fit but that's just online feedback.

Ford Escort, Subaru Justy, LADM EJ15/EJ16 are all known options.

Yes, and in fact they have just been finished (I was able to persuade my ex co-worker to help me as I ended up with a single spare hub, so they made 21 to complete the set). These have EJ stud sizes (I hope - I'm waiting on them to be shipped from Taiwan to AUS). At this stage 4 sets are allocated locally, another 2 sets are earmarked for a member in Belgium who missed out last time, and the rest (5 sets) are available.

Baja Turbo would be tough to find at a JY too! Can probably still get from dealers, p/n 57220AE01A. Baja Turbo is steel. B4 is alloy.

Impreza is smaller, you want a Legacy hood. Factory would be a B4, but I don't know if they were sold in the US. I think the GT came a little later with the next gen body shape.

Try this thread : http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/153231-1987-subaru-gl-throttle-position-sensor-help/

Not strictly relevant to the OP's question, but to clear up some half-truths in this thread. The JDM engines are indeed imported into Australia (and other countries), but half-cuts refers to the front end (engine in engine bay, transmission, wiring, most of front end (especially for FWD cars) being imported for conversions - it would be very uncommon for an importer to bring in both the front and the back of a Japanese car to Australia). We do have some specific (and inane) laws on what can be imported, but it is far more lax than the US (ie. we have pretty much free rein on anything older than 1990, regardless of RHD or LHD, so I can import an oddball 1989 Toyota Crown but not a 1991 Toyota Crown - our idiot government are meant to be reviewing this cutoff year as it has been 1989 for about 10 years now). The Japanese market for older cars is driven by annual registration testing. As few Japanese have access to their own garage to do their own maintenance, the prices mechanics charge can be outrageous which drives the cost of meeting the annual test up - so they sell after 3-5 years when the car starts to need significant work (such as HG's, etc). Between about 1990 and 2012 New Zealand used to take a LOT of these Japanese cars, but their rules changed (due to emissions concerns) (prior to ~1990 the average age of a NZ vehicle was one of the oldest in Western countries, and in fact is still right up there). When NZ changed the rules, there were lots of scrap Japanese cars with no homes so the Japanese started exporting half cuts (or just engines) with greater effort to Canada, Australia, and to a lesser degree the USA. As the age of the cars from Japan reaches a point where they all meet the NZ emissions standards introduced in 2012, the number of cars shipping to NZ will increase again. (Now that AUS auto production has stopped (Toyota, GM and Ford all packed up in the past 15 months), the same laws should apply to AUS but unfortunately our government went on a tangent about allowing private importing of NEW cars (ie. we could avoid local distribution and buy direct from Japan or the UK, thus avoiding the mark-ups the distributors (in particular Porsche, and to a lesser degree the rest of the German automakers)), but this was quashed by the usual bribery associated with scumbag politicians and big business collusion, and the used car option disappeared without a trace).

I'd say $300 is top dollar for a private sale of an old EJ22 with that many miles. I've bought whole cars with similar engines for that price. I'd be thinking $150 would be more realistic. For storage, these are pretty stable. I just use a couple of blocks of wood bolted together with a cutout in the middle for the oil pan to sit `in'. Bag it up with some industrial plastic (like you get from something shipped from overseas, you could probably pick some up free from any importer) so it's air-tight, and keep it off a concrete floor.

Most of them have been scrapped/crushed. There are a few still floating around in AUS but not many. I see a few come up on Gumtree (bastardised AUS version of Craigslist for the US guys), about one every 6 months. Prices are going up on the few left in good condition. I pulled my AC setup out of one at a wreckers several years ago, but haven't seen one at a wrecker for almost that long (just wagons, very occasional Brumby, and very very occasional sedan).

An Outback with a EJ22 is going to be pretty dreadful for performance and fuel economy. Subaru offered the H6 (eventually) for a reason, and the Outback was that reason. A EJ25D with decent HG's will be a far better option that a EJ22. 135hp vs 165hp isn't to be sneezed at with a 3000+ lb's wagon. The only reason I can think of to use the EJ22 is it's a non-interference design.

Be careful with XT non-turbo as some are 2wd, which don't have the splines needed for 4wd. As I said, I have a set in Nevada including good rotors if you're interested (otherwise I'll have them shipped down under).

EA82 turbo rear's is the way to get rear discs, assuming you're sticking with 4 x 140. I have a friend in Nevada who has a set spare (4wd) if you're interested. They will fit under stock 13's. Drilled and slotted I haven't seen for rear rotors, and wouldn't make any difference to performance (probably just chew through pads more quickly). Good quality pads and rotors are all you need.

Or get them 3D printed, I believe there is a model already available.

Try NZ. Subaru Japan probably ran out a decade earlier than AUS, cars don't stay on the roads after 5 years in Japan.

And possibly will need to change your diff if it's the wrong ratio (3.7 vs 3.9).

You need an 88+ AWD box from a XT 4wd or RX. Earlier RX (86/87) were pt 4wd.

EJ20 heads in a EJ25 (both phase 2 obviously, phase 1 will mean changing the intake to suit the phase 1 heads) is the common option used. Try to get the 2003+ EJ202 heads as they flow a little better.

Probably due for a timing belt if it's not on the service paperwork. People cheap out on servicing, especially when it costs as much as the car.

I bought one of the last sets in AUS about 4 years ago, and they weren't five or six bucks...as far as I know they have been sold out in AUS for at least 2 years. That would be in grey of course (no non-grey interiors in MY's in AUS after 83 AFAIK).

EA82 SPFI pistons will give a slightly higher compression than EA71. Both will give higher than EA81 pistons. EA82 are also far easier to find and weigh less. Contact Delta Cams for a suitable grind. They can be difficult to contact electronically, phone call is best. Ken is the best guy there to deal with (he did my EJ20 SOHC cams). EA82 intake is bolt on. Use a EA82 y-pipe also, slightly larger than your EA81. No machine work required if you just want to swap pistons, though I'd recommend at least getting the bores checked (take the block to a decent machine shop and ask their opinion). Don't buy your pistons until you get to this point, in case you do need to go up a size from stock. Value of adding a Weber is debatable. I'd rather spend the money on a SPFI kit which sends the right amount of fuel into the engine rather than simply more like the Weber does...

Uneven length headers don't make more power than equal length, they are less efficient.

Welcome to Subaru Australia pricing. In a few years time you'll wish you bought a spare set.

The global standard (apart from the US) is RON, as that is the most accurate for daily-use cars. US 87 is RON 91, which is fine. Many modern cars (especially European) require RON 95 (US 91 octane) but I can't think of any Subaru's to date that have RON 95 as a standard ex-factory. If you were running a modified engine (like a 10:1 SBC), you would be better off with 91 octane or higher.