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I don't believe the drum thickness is sufficient to drill the 5x100 PCD safely. I had a look at these awhile back and there isn't enough material once you step away from the center of the drum (should be 10mm to match factory XT6). I know people who have done it, but it's not something I would offer to sell to the public.

Also, if you have an 82 BRAT you have the solid rotors, correct ? Moving to the later vented rotor *might* increase your track just enough...

Is it the inside or outside edge of the tyre hitting the fender. Could be a backspacing issue on the wheels. Have you thought about putting a spacer between the two and using longer studs if necessary ? Tophat changes won't help if you are clipping the fender both front and back.

You realise the "authentic growl" is power loss ?

The EJ25 has a bad rap on here due to early HG designs. The common Frankenmotor upgrade is EJ20/22 heads on an EJ25 to increase compression, while you are heading in the opposite direction which will give you really low compression. The best bet is to find a similar age, phase 2, EH25 block and replace it. The Outback is an overweight pig like almost all modern Subaru's and dropping off 12% of your displacement is going to be noticeable.

They should fit under an MY better than a L-series. I ran Pug 14's with +25mm offset and they still had plenty of space inside the wheel well (from memory they were 5.5", not 6"). They're definitely 15's rather than the 390mm (which aren't that hard to find in Europe anyway, compared to the ROW).

Only difference in the cradle is four extra holes. Just drill and tap them (or through hole and put a nyloc nut on the other side).

it's partly demand but mostly I'm switching jobs (after 23 years) and won't have access to the same supply chain / logistics. At the moment I have 8 of the 10 sets available.

There is another set of 10 pairs in progress, have made a few dimensional changes which I am waiting revised drawing to sign-off. This will be the last batch.

No, you use an adaptor plate between the EJ engine and the EA box. 19mm from memory. The box position doesn't move, so the tailshaft length doesn't change (if you already have a 5-speed box it will either have a custom single piece tailshaft (longer than stock), or a two-piece tailshaft from an L-series (which is hopefully braced per the L-series).

GD, what's your opinion on head bolts - re-use or replace ? Especially on a higher CR build like 12:1 ?

The rear filter is a Ryco Z427 or equivalent. SCA or similar will be able to get one in for you in a few days. The front is a Z366. The rear is a dedicated filter, the front is a fuel/vapour seperator.

Yes, I did it last year. EJ20 phase 1 SOHC from early 1998 Forester. Almost a drop-in solution, no rail cutting. Very simple wiring. If I didn't have the engineering requirements I would have gone EJ25 phase 2 (SOHC). EA82 5 speed box, but again I would have gone an EJ box if I did it again (mainly b/c EA82 boxes are getting pretty long in the tooth).

Varies from state to state. EJ20 non-turbo in Vic just needs a phone call, anything cutting the rails, displacement > 10% over 1.8L, or turbo needs an engineering certificate. I believe Qld isn't as strict but anything that involves cutting the rails should have an engineering cert regardless of state/territory.

We have 2 mufflers down under. The first is just past the end of the y-pipe, which is an in-line muffler (normally replaced with a hotdog), and then a second, larger muffler at the back of the car. I believe the first one is effectively a resonator, and the second one acts as a true muffler.

Have you thought about a rebuilt EA81 with SPFI ? This gets you more power, better running, and is almost drop in (a small amount of wiring). Much easier than an EJ install, much cheaper, and a well proven (if dated) solution.

An EJ is narrower than an EA82, not wider (except the DOHC EJ, obviously).

Here's a first gen BRAT (Brumby) with WRX engine - the fourth-from-last photo shows the engine shoehorned in to place. Owner is on AUSubaru and has had the vehicle for several years so it can be done reliably (there are a few others out there also). https://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Subaru-Brumby-1978/SSE-AD-4345093/?Cr=1 As GD said, it will be far easier with a SOHC engine (EJ22, phase 2 EJ25) than a turbo EJ (which are all DOHC, regardless of WRX or Forester turbo), due to the width.

83subaruGLchick, the rear is almost plug and play with the XT6 hubs (a little drilling and running handbrake cables). The front is Impreza struts including hubs/knuckle and is mix-and-match'ing the right CV inners and outers.

Welcome Andrew. Looks like a nice country-fied Brumby. Mods ?

Oddly enough, I have two spare backing plates in pretty ratty condition due to a screw-up by a seller (they shipped me the backing plates + calipers but forgot the hubs, and as of this past weekend they got me two better backing plates with the hubs). The ratty ones are due to a previous owner welding them to the trailing arm, so they have been spot-welded off. They are currently sitting in California so if you want them PM me.

>Subaru has never offered a RWD vehicle in the use - not at least in an EA/ER and newer mainstream vehicle *cough* BRZ.

FWIW, I spoke to my Subaru mechanic and he said he usually just replaces the gears rather than the entire pump. He can still get these, and after I advised him on the lack of new stock he has ordered some gear stock. I don't have a price yet.

According to local dealer all gone here also. And parts store (Repco) advises no-one offers an aftermarket alternative.

This particular vehicle appeared on AUSubaru awhile back, but I don't believe the owner ever posted. From memory he was based in northern Victoria, Australia.