zstalker

oh, ok...I guess I'm just too used to EA81 rear suspension...it's all I've directly dealt with so far. I'll have to see if some of those parts can be retro-fitted to an EA81. ~Erik~

I know this should technically go in the Craigslist/Ebay section, but since nobody here would be able to buy it, I thought I'd just show it here. This is so sweet...I'd be all over it. http://page11.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/n76644750 Here are the pics, for after the auction ends: ~Erik~

hey numbchux, as for the top strut mount in the rear, did you fabricate a new plate to mount to? I can't imagine that being terribly hard, just some cutting/welding/fitting, etc. also, did you remove the torsion beam from the rear crossmember to let the car solely sit on the struts? I'm intending to make my '84 GL-10 Coupe into more of a street-driven race-type car, so this is a really cool setup. ~Erik~

engine coolant temperature sensor maybe. If broken in a manner that tells the ECM the engine is very cold, it will run acceptably when it is actually cold, but as it warms up it's still fueling what it thinks is a cold motor, and it floods. Don't rely on the temperature gauge in the instrument cluster either, many cars have a separate sensor for the ECM and the gauge. ...just spitballing... ~Erik~

that's pretty good, depending on your area. Definately use the blown head gasket as a huge selling point, "well, the motor's blown" or something like that... ~Erik~

http://www.nasioc.com/ yes, it's an impreza site, but since Subaru cars are all pretty much built like Lego's, all their information will be the same as your car. LOTS of people doing similar swaps...that's the Mecca for newer Subaru modification. ~Erik~

if it helps, the hose sticking through the firewall isn't actually part of the heater core, it's the control valve assembly...so, worst case scenario you'll have to replace that valve....I've totally done what (I think) you just did...crushed the tube trying to take the hose off on the outside of the firewall. *sigh* ~Erik~ sorry, I guess it doesn't really help you in the short term, just thought it'd help.

an odd update: two days ago I'm driving down to the DMV to get the title worked out, and from the freeway I catch a glimpse of a car from the corner of my eye. I think to myself "could that have been another silver EA81 GL coupe?" So yesterday I was taking the same trip (lots of hoops to jump through to get a junkyard car re-titled) and I brought my camera. I pulled over to the side of the freeway, zoomed the camera all the way (5x) and snapped this: ok, just to assure you, this car is about 4 miles away from my newly-purchased GL-10, and is sitting in a storage yard for (I think) a totally different wrecking or salvage yard of some sort. What are the chances of running into two silver EA81 GL-10 hardtop coupes? I'm thinking GL10 because it's got the same wheels (same as my Brat too...creepy), and the sunroof that I can see, and appears to have black trim, as the GL-10's were equipped with. I'm going to go check it out ASAP...go poke around and see what the deal with it is.

most (all?) states have a means to re-issue a title to a car that was bought without one. Heck, I think most of the cars I've ever bought didn't have a title when I got them, and I've always gotten one before I sell it....makes cars much easier to sell. HERE is Washington's form to take to the DMV to re-issue a lost title...no prob. ~Erik~

as it stands, I'm definately going to put her back on the road, so I'm afraid I'm going to have to deny you the parts for the time being. I figure it's still in good enough shape it would be a shame to part out or let it get crushed. As for the radio, for what would you be willing to part with it for? Did you use rockers cut from another Subaru or just get some sheet steel the right gauge and bend it to fit? Either way it will need paint, but I just don't know how complex those curves are in that area. ~Erik~

here you go. That's the best I've got right now, I can post a better one once I take posession of the car. Unfortunately sometime in its life the radio has been smashed in, so I'll be looking for a replacement for the top portion of it at some point. Anyone got one sitting around? ~Erik~

well, I was wandering through our local pick-n-pull looking for engine pieces for my '91 Legacy, when down the row I catch a glimpse of an EA81 front end sticking out. I walked down towards it and it turns out it's a 1984 GL-10 Hardtop Coupe. I asked the guy managing the yard if I could buy the whole car straight out, and he said that the yard owner doesn't like to do that. The state of Utah makes it kind of dificult to re-register a car that's been in the wrecking yard. So after some prying, pulling, arm-twisting, begging, and talking directly to the Motor Vehicle department, I got the guy to budge and let it go. It's not totally mine yet (waiting for the paperwork to go through before it leaves his lot), but I got it off of the main yard so it won't be picked over anymore. Here she is next to my 1984 Brat and my 2005 Daughter (also a Brat) Interior. This thing is loaded (well, it is a GL-10). the bad: whether it happened before or after it showed up at the wrecking yard, there's a impact to the left rocker. To anyone who has replaced a rocker panel: do you just chop-saw it open and start welding, or cut the spot welds and peel the panels apart to avoid damage to the brake and fuel lines?

some excerpts: MSDS for Sucrose (common sugar) Lab Protective Equip: GOGGLES; LAB COAT; PROPER GLOVES Ingestion: Extremely large oral dosages may produce gastrointestinal disturbances. First Aid Measures Ingestion: If large amounts were swallowed, give water to drink and get medical advice. Accidental Release Measures Remove all sources of ignition. Ventilate area of leak or spill. Wear appropriate personal protective equipment as specified in Section 8. Spills: Clean up spills in a manner that does not disperse dust into the air. Use non-sparking tools and equipment. Reduce airborne dust and prevent scattering by moistening with water. Pick up spill for recovery or disposal and place in a closed container.

The kit is still available from Subaru (part number 11813AA010), however it's about $45. Scrounge around a junk yard and I'd bet some EA82's in there have already been updated with the parts you can swap onto yours. Here's the setup before the update: Here are the parts involved in the update: And the setup after the update: Just find one like that and grab the parts to keep your PCV/breather system flowing better

not to dismiss your frustration with the lower quality of Subaru alloys, but you also have to consider the cost difference betweed the two cars when they were made. Of course the German engineered engine is going to hold up much better, the car cost many times as much. We love these cars for what they are: affordable, rugged cars that are fairly easy to work on. The Mercedes is a finely built piece of German engineering... not at all the same market.

ok, here are the part numbers and prices for SOA parts for an EA81 engine rebuild. this is all I could think of off the top of my head, and I'm sure I've forgotten some...maybe...I dunno. 411217000 Crank case o-ring $4 413967100 crankshaft rear o-ring $8 806776011 rear crankshaft seal $15 806738070 front crankshaft seal $7 811708600 oil fill tube gasket $1 412307222 cylinder head gasket (x2) $30 485437000 crank main bearing set $130 382917900 crank rod bearing set $42 480037100 piston ring set $209 412607000 valve cover gasket (x2) $8 812764110 valve cover bolt seal (x4) $2 412777000 intake valve seal (x4) $4 11121AA030 oil pan gasket $6 806914020 oil pickup o-ring $1 424207000 oil pump body gasket $2 806938020 oil pump o-ring $3 806914020 oil pump output o-ring $1 SOA5165100 SOA oil filter $8 417407000 water pump gasket $2 11072AA030 thermostat gasket $3 21200AA121 thermostat $16 14035AA150 intake manifold gasket $3 prices are MSRP list price, and you will definately get them all cheaper from online Subaru parts dealers (google them then shop around...there are a few), plus shipping. bearings and rings are part numbers for the standard sizes, over- (or under-) sized are available as well. If you (or anyone really) need any SOA part numbers, feel free to ask, I love to help out. I know that parts department people can be less than helpful with old Subaru parts, basically because compared to new parts, these old ones are a pain for them to look up. some of the old parts aren't kept in warehouses anymore, so we're SOL...but lots of them are. even really odd-ball ones. I've got parts books for EA81 cars, EA82 cars, and I happen to have '90-'94 Legacy as well. ~Erik~

Rock Auto bills themselves as "everything your car will ever need." It's not 100% true, since sometimes I (and I'm sure many others here) look for fairly particular items, but they have a lot of stuff, name-brand stuff, usually VERY good prices, and customer service I can't do anything but rave about. Here's the "cylinder head gasket set" for the EA81 from Felpro ($65): the clevite main bearing set ($32): Clevite conn. rod bearing set (about $45): and a piston ring set ($53): Another thing to consider is getting parts directly from Subaru. lots of parts for the older Subaru cars are still available. I'll look up some prices and post them. ~Erik~

with the engine up to full operating temperature (fan has come on at least once) feel the inlet and outlet hoses to the heater core under the hood. feel them right by the firewall by the steering column. are they hot? are they as hot as the radiator hoses? is one hot and the other one stone cold? all these can be good checks for heater core function. if you say the fan actually comes on from time to time, I'm thinking it's not the thermostat stuck open. If that thermoswitch is getting hot enougn to turn the fan on, that means the coolant is up to...shoot...180 degrees (?) at least coming out of the engine. that's plenty hot to make your heater blow hot...I feel like you're looking at a heater core problem. as stated above, the control valve for the heater core (next to the driver's right foot) should open and close to allow the hot fluid in. if your heater core is clogged, before you go nuts and replace it, undo the two hoses at their other ends (engine end, AWAY from the firewall) and stick a garden hose up to one to flush the crap out of it. then stick it in the other hose and back-flush. back, and forth, back, and forth. Then, hook it all back up, top off the coolant again and see if that does the trick. ~Erik~

here's the Subaru part listing: You're looking for item 17, yes? Not exactly cheap though...it looks like it's a few hundred. side note: item 22 looks interesting, and is apparently still an active part number

JB weld is great, but not THAT stong. TOO much force for anything but metal in that area

SOA part number for the EA81 HVAC blower resistor is 772083010. It can be found online for about $35 plus shipping. Walking into your local Subaru dealership would be about $50, so if time if a factor, a $15 premium isn't terrible. but then again...you'd have to wait till they get their order in too, so I guess it's not really quicker, is it? (If, judging by your avatar, you're a Subaru tech as well, you can probably get it pretty cheap through work anyways.)

I find that the fuel starvation first occurs on a specific turn driving to work: it's 40MPH coming to a stop and accellerating making a right-hand turn...using that alone, I'd guess the fuel sloshes away from the pickup on that turn. Only seems to happen when I get really below 1/4 tank...not just at 1/4, but almost 1/8 (at least when the gauge reads that)

+1 another SPFI EA81 running in my Brat, and I'm loving every minute of it. Working absolutely perfectly, with the exception of my O2 sensor that's shot now since my rear main seal puked oil all over it. The Subaru SPFI system is really fantastic and adaptable, but simple and pretty easy to get working right. Mine even got passed off by the county emissions station, so I'm legal as an upgraded system (got exemption for the air injection system). I've gotta hand it to GD for the writeup. Not that it's a hard thing to convert, but it's more that the writeup gave a little confidence and the knowledge of having it done before...so thanks' GD. ~Erik~

I, as someone who fixes cars for a living, would try to find out what's causing the light to come on firstly. Does the ABS module have a way to read what trouble codes are stored? Maybe the ABS is disabled because of whatever trouble code is stored. I'd just hate to have someone start throwing parts and time at their car without even knowing what's broken... ~Erik~

ok thanks. yeah, I just saw it and it kinda threw me for a loop...looking for the turbo and all...lol. I didn't catch which manifold it had, I'll take a peek next time I go (right across the freeway from my work). It was an '85 wagon, didn't check if it was 2 or 4WD. thanks all anyways... ~Erik~