zstalker

awesome, good to hear! ~Erik~

what were the other emissions numbers? high HC's can mean certain things, but the other numbers are just as important to know what the problem is. that, and was it failing at idle, high RPM, or both? ideally, post the HC and CO numbers for both idle and 2500RPM, those will tell a lot about your car. ~Erik~

To be honest, the quality of the build in Subarus has gotten better and better recently, Subaru is really trying to move up-market. just still shooting in the dark, since I cant see the car personally, but it could be a heat shield rattling...Subaru uses a lot of heat shielding, and if it gets loose, it'll rattle a lot. That's pretty easily fixed, the quick-and-dirty method being screw a screw into a hole in the shield that's rattling, but kind of sideways so as it screws in, it'll just wedge itself inbetween the shield and pipe. don't puncture anything, just get it wedged in there good and tight. noises like that could be a number of things...I would go get an estimate at least so you aren't dreading the worst when it may or may not be just a quick and simple fix...good luck ~Erik~

I've actually found that a lot of times they'll have both numbers listed as "fuel filter", so they probably just grabbed the first number that came up. They both look almost the same, except the fuel filter that goes up by the tank (as stated, just poke your head under the driver-side right ahead of the rear wheel, you'll see it) only has the two connections on it: and the fuel separator/secondary filter has those two plus one on the other end: (that one is the one it sounds like you've already removed, right by the firewall, in the engine compartment. If you leave the 2-connector filter in that place, you will (likely) get vapors in the carb, which may or may not cause undesireable effects on drivability. Just go back to the store, ask for the other one (check it before you leave the store) and put both filters in their correct places. ~Erik~

the only part of the plug that matters for running is the part past the threads that is actually inside the combustion chamber. well, almost...if there's a dark black line running up the ceramic stem of it that's bad, but not really what we're talking about here. go to this page and tell us which one it looks most like. if you're talking about how the threads and hex-portion get darker and the ceramic gets slightly discolored, that's totally normal, just from being so close to extremely high temperatures. ~Erik~

the warranty you're thinking of is the 8 year/80,000 mile federal emissions component performance warranty. All it covers is that the catalytic converter, ECM, and OBDII communications will funcion properly till that time/milage runs out...never says anything about noise, just function. If the cat is still working properly as judged by the onboard emissions detecting equipment (or maybe an emissions detecting gas analizer...not sure about that though), it won't be warrantied. The buzzing noise youre hearing might be the baffles inside the resonator have broken. you could probably price it from Subaru (probably not cheap), or have an exhaust shop diagnose it and replace it with just another resonator (likely MUCH cheaper), since the car is outside the factory warranty unless you bought a service contract of some sort. ~Erik~

(remember both fuel filters) ~Erik~

neither did I...maybe not available in the US. hell, the Brat was available till the 90's in the rest of the world... ~Erik~

no rear reason for the supply and return lines to be the same length, the pump doesn't really know anyways. and with rubber lines, really try to minimize it...only for joints, places that need to flex, etc. you don't want rubber lines running under your car to get hit by a rock or something, and I personally wouldn't want fuel flowing through the passenger compartment in rubber lines. ~ErikE

leaking clutch fluid will do that....or a bad master or slave cylinder. if it's only got 25,000 miles on it, take it back to the dealer (unless you were talking about the clutch only has 25k on it...) ~Erik~

1995 Subaru had already gone to OBDII for engine management. a little more complex perhaps, but I think I'd like it for easier access to information and more advanced trouble codes. ~Erik~

that push-button ignition is part of the smart-key system that we aren't getting here in the US (yet?) ~Erik~

yeah, it changes the muffler design based on airflow. it's got a little gate inside that rotates on a bearing set. sadly, this now validates the previously-humorous idea of "muffler bearings"...this muffler actually has some. ~Erik~

fair enough,...the one I've seen done got OE glass put in it, and it was more than $1200. ~Erik~

woah woah woah, broken windshield? not sure if you're aware, but this windshield alone is more than $1200, sometimes as much as $1400. call around for the best deal (since they'll all be getting their glass from the dealer anyways) but you're in for quite a hit to replace that glass.... ~Erik~

diesel oil has a higher content of ZDDP (zinc phosphate). it's a great barrier lubricant, but automotive oil has less and less of it, since it's not terribly friendly to the catalytic converter. it's a great additive to use, but only if you don't really care about the cat, pasing emissions, maintaining the warranty on the cat (extremely expensive). if you want a heavy oil for summer use, there are synthetics (and some conventionals) that go all the way to 20w-50. for more info on oils, search...there are dozens of threads on this forum, or visit http://www.bobistheoilguy.com for some serious oil fanatics and more information about lubrication than you can take in in an entire lifetime. my only advice: don't believe hearsay, rumors or grand claims (positive or negative) without making sure they're true by actual scientific studies. ~Erik~

sweet sound. the startup sounded like a musclecar! do you know exactly what kind of muffler it is? my Legacy's Muffler is rusting out so I'm looking for a good sound, and yours is the best so far. ~Erik~

diesel? coming soon. STi 4-door instead of just 5-door? they're thinking about it. Motorcycle? never heard of it. any source? ~Erik~

the individual dealer can make a huge difference. if a dealer doesn't really want to fix something for warranty, they can pretty much make something up not to. Regional corperate representatives are usually fairly leniant for warranty, as long as it's a real warranty issue (not blowing up your STi motor under questionable circumstances, as an example). Take it to another dealer and explain that you had the actuator replaced under warranty and now the new one has failed. they may just go ahead and do the work right there, but more likely they'll have to call the rep. and get apporval for a good-will warranty. if you want to, go to the customer service website and explain the situation. Be nice, but assertive, explain everything and the fact that you feel like the part should be warrantied, and they may just do it...especially considering you had work done still inside warranty, and you now, just outside warranty, have issues directly relating. Good luck...be honest and calm, but assertive and you should be ok. ~Erik~

ok, I can't tell you much about the 300, but here's my feelings on the Aveo: The Aveo is a smaller version of the same Daewoo design that the Suzuki Forenza and Reno are based on. The Suzuki Forenza/Reno (the'yre the same car, just 4- or 5-door) are the biggest peices of garbage on the road today. Thank God they have a 100k powertrain warranty, but the overall warranty still runs out at 36k. The whole car is dieing on its feet...the wiring harness, engine accessories (water pump, alternator), airbag harness, sensors and solenoids all over the car (O2 sensor, Fuel tenk pressure sensor, purge solenoid, etc), interior accessories (radio, clock, trim, door handles, seat belts, etc etc) and sometimes transmissions, are falling apart. The fuel delivery system (injectors, MAP sensor, throttle body, PCV/breather) starts getting clogged up within 30,000 miles and starts messing up the car's running ability. The computer has to be TOLD when to re-learn its idle, and TOLD how to compensate for aging/wear of its components...otherwise will start to run like crap. The scan tool that we're supplied with from Suzuki many times can't even see DTC's when they come up and we have to retrieve them with other brands of code pullers. They many times start develloping a very-long crank, sometimes not even starting at all. Suzuki has released MANY updates for all these problems, and really have not even fixed a single one. It's standard procedure for lots of problems to clear the codes, update the ECM and send them on their way. These aren't just occasional examples, all these issues I've mentioned are things we see just about every day. I can't specifically say fromt personal experience that the Aveo has all these problems, but if you look under the hood and car, it's exactly the same car, just smaller. I wouldn't trust them as far as I could throw them. Disclaimer: The Forenza/Reno, and the Verona (production actually stopped because of massive problems as well) are the only Daewoo-based Suzuki cars. The New XL7 is a Suzuki-GM hybrid, but other than that, Japanese-designed Suzuki's are actually pretty decent cars. We rarely see SX4 (5-speed is kinda fun to drive, and has a rally competing version), Aerio, Grand Vitara, XL7, or older Suzuki's back for any significant warranty work. A 4-door SX4 just got released, and the Swift is coming back, so don't be discouraged from buing a Suzuki, they're really half-way decent little cars...just don't touch the Korean ones. ~Erik~

easiest way to remember, the cylinder closest to the front of the motor is number always #1, on every motor, every make. And no, boxer and V motors aren't straight across from eachother, just pretty close...but there's always one more forward than the other. On Subaru motors, think about where the water pump fits, its front is level with the front of the other side of the motor, so it must be on the more-rearward side....make sense? Sorry if I'm confusing anyone. The number one cylinder is right against the timing belt, on the (car's) right side, the number 4 is on the back, tucked against the starter. Numbering is right, left, right, left (unless you're Ford... sheesh). ~Erik~ **************brake **************master *************cylinder ***(turbo)*******4 ******3 ***************2 ******1 ****head******head ****light*******light

they can be high revving, if built properly (balance, strength, good rotor tips, etc). stock, they are still somewhat limited. ~Erik~

sounds like time to pull out the bulb..... ~Erik~

it doesn't seem like anyone has mentioned this, but if all your coolant is getting pushed out into (and out of) the overflow, the first think I'd check, and probably replace, is the radiator cap. With a failed radiator cap, the coolant is free to come on out whenever it chooses. It will come out into the overflow, then the radiator will have less coolant. not only that, but if the cap isn't holding pressure, the boiling point of the coolant is significantly lower than with a good one. The solution is many times the simplest one, and often overlooked.....just my suggestion. oh, by the way, probably replace it with a Subaru cap, if you can... ~Erik~

For a couple years they had a filter box by the firewall AND one behind the headlight (both for engine air, not cabin air). Only one filter is needed, I'd personally put it in the one by the headlight. Putting in both filters will increase the filtering of the air, but will add twice the restriction to the airflow, and really isn't necessary...in just about every production car the air just has one filter to pass through (in series...not talking about two paralell filters). Just leave the box by the firewall closed and empty...it's more of a pain to change a filter in that location anyways. ~Erik~ and yes, this should be in the New-Gen forum.