zstalker

First off, let me say that yes, I've searched the whole board, stem to stern. I'm getting an SPFI harness ready for installation on my EA81. I've made lots of good progress, but I'm hitting a snag with all the "test" settings, connectors, etc. ok, lemme see if I've got this right. PLEASE correct me if I'm wrong, I really would like to have a functioning ECM when I'm done...sorry for my very detailed explainations, I really want to make sure I'm getting the right things together. D-Check: brown wire from pin 31 goes to a green 2-slot connector, only the one prong is used. This connector has a matching green mate with one black/red ground wire that, when connected to eachother (normally disconnected from anything), activate Dealer-Check mode...run the engine up for a little bit for a self-diagnosis and observe the codes that develop. Clear memory connectors: Pin 39 is a light-green/white wire going to a white single-prong connector, and has a matching white single-prong connector with a black/red wire. Normally disconnected from anything, connect to eachother and run for a bit to erase all codes from memory. that's all I know for sure, and again, please correct me if any of that was wrong. Coming from ECM pin 37 is a green/red wire that goes to a white, 2-prong connector along with black/red ground wires on the other prong. This is labelled "test mode connector", but has no associated mate to connect to. what is this for, and what does it plug into? for that matter, these also I have no explaination for: pin 3, red wire labelled "test 4" pin 10, yellow wire labelled "line end cord output" pin 11, blue wire labelled "line end cord output" pin 12, red/blue wire labelled "line end cord output" these 4 wires (along with a switched power wire and a ground wire) all go to a yellow-ish (faded from white?) connector, also with no mate. in all my searching I hear many references to a "read memory" connector, but I don't have any idea what connector that is, and what it connects to. sorry for all these questions at once, but this is kinda where I'm stuck now. I've got the motor rebuilt and ready to drop in the car, so I'm basically just needing to get the harness ready and fire it up... GeneralDisorder, Gloyale, nipper...any others...I'm eager to soak up your wisdom. ~Erik~ BTW, I made up this color chart for the ECM pin layout...a gift for the board. It has already helped me immensly.

these filters aren't just a "dust-catcher," they're actually a super-fine (down to a couple microns, much finer than your engine's filter), and often has a layer of activated charcoal sandwiched in the middle to actually catch noxious chemicals as well (exhaust, etc). as stated above, I really wish there was an easier way to retrofit older cars with them, as they keep the fan, heater core and evaporator core clear of dirt, leaves, crap and everything else that makes its way into the HVAC vents. one word of warning though, if you do have one, be sure to change it (every year or so...depending on climate), because if you don't, all the crap it catches will eventually cut off more and more airflow, making your A/C stop working, and if you have the heater core running hot coolant, it can damage items inside the dash, since it just builds more and more heat. Don't think the filter is a bad thing, however, if it wasn't for that filter catching all that crap, it would eventually block up your fan, Evap core and heater core (and lungs), resulting in a quite costly repair. Changing a filter, even a "hard to get to" filter is MUCH easier and cheaper than replacing your heater core or evaporator core (really, 20-30 minutes for anyone who knows how to hold a screwdriver is nothing...) ~Erik~

yeah, just stop by a parts store and have them pull (but NOT clear) the P-code...I don't know of any other codes like that.... ~Erik~

how does the cross-member differ? is it not just a couple holes to mount the steering rack to? I'm really wanting to throw a power steering setup in my Brat once it's running (first things first), and it really looked pretty simple...pull parts (rack, pump, brackets for pump, hoses), but I never considered the whole crossmember has to go.....dang. ~Erik~

what viscosity of oil are you using? Subaru says 5w-30 is not recommended unless you're in VERY cold circumstances (just in case you're using it). ~Erik~

the specification for the torque to be applied to the crankshaft pulley bolt on my '84 Brat is 39-42 ft/lb. does that seem quite low to anyone else? a ton of other engines have the spec above 100, and some even higher. do people really put the bolt at 42 ft/lb, and if so has anyone ever had a problem with the pulley walking off and wrecking the crankshaft? I'd feel much more comfortable above 60 ft/lb.... ~Erik~

best pics I've seen 'round here location: removing (note, intake doesn't really need to be removed...that would be more than an hour wasted): ~Erik~

no, no, that's why I said wipe it off. with a good rag, fluid comes off bare metal pretty much completely...you're not just pulling the dipstick and shoving it directly into the washer fluid. (and vice versa, wipe the wash fluid off before you stick it back into the tranny). whatever tiny trace of ATF that is still on the stick is more than taken care of by the detergent in the wash fluid. ~Erik~

in general on transmission dipsticks the difference between the two marks is one pint, which is half of a quart. this is a generality, and you should basically just start small, and adjust giving a couple minutes between additions for the fluid to drain out of the tube. check out this little trick I picked up working at a quick-lube place for a couple years: take the dipstick out (works for oil too), wipe it, and stick as much as will fit into the washer fluid reservior. This will cool the stick (quite quickly, actually). then wipe the wash fluid off of the stick...doesn't have to be absolutely perfect, not much water stays on the stick anyway, and now check the fluid. the cold stick will let the operating-temperature fluid mark the stick much better to get a much more clear reading. a hot reading is really the more important reading for ATF anyways. ~Erik~

other than the Baja, which they're stopping, I've heard nothing...but dealerships aren't the sourse of all information. most of the salesmen at our dealership didn't even know that the new Impreza was coming out till well after we did here. news of an upcoming diesel motor is filtering around the web, but no trucks, or any other models other than the Impreza 5-door hatch and 4-door sedan, Legacy (sedan only), Outback (wagon only), and Tribeca. ~Erik~

out of laziness, check out my reply on this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75018 ~Erik~

Wouldn't it take just a custom-ground cam?nothing else really knows/cares what direction it's turning. well, maybe oil punp, water pump, all the accessories, bout the accessories you could rig a serpentine belt and run it with the back of the belt (i.e. VW double-sided belt). oil pump, maybe get a custom pump body made to accept the opposite rotation (input/output switch or something). Once you get the cams made, just change the wiring around to reverse-order for the injection/ignition, and you should be ok...the computer won't know the difference, as long as you don't get comfused when you're rigging it all. what in the world are you trying to do? AWD/4WD transplant into a VW? ~Erik~

it's called the crankshaft seal retainer...basically a block cover. Subaru used to make them plastic, for whatever reason, and yes, once they get old, they leak really bad. You can go to a Subaru dealer and get a replacement that's metal (aluminum). It's sealed to the block with engine sealant (silicone gasket tube 1215 on this page,also available from the dealer). Once you've gotten the back of the engine available, it's really easy to replace this cover. just do yourself the favor and get the metal one. (and no, you shouldn't have to drain the oil...but is an oil change really going to hurt?) ~Erik~

losing ATF but not leaking? be sure to check the coolant. the ATF gets pumped through the radiator, and if the ATF cooler breaks, the transmission starts pumping ATF into the radiator...NOT pretty. ~Erik~

we (Subaru dealership) always put the flat side against the flat on the drain plug, but really it doesn't matter a whole lot, as both the plug and the pan have a flat surface that the ring is crushed between. the correct torque specification for the drainplug is about 30 ft/lb, which turns out to be just a tiny tiny bit past where the crushing ends (you can feel the crushing happening, then it suddenly gets tighter...only a tiny bit beyond that) ~Erik~

That is the bottom line. The fact is, only a handful of companies actually MAKE their own oil, and through very high-tech procedures. It's almost like gasoline, where a few companies make and share the same gasoline, in a few big tanks, and a lot of other companies add their own additives to sell it. If you want some real information from actually educated people, many of whom have worked in the oil and lubrication engineering industry for their whole carreers, go visit http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ . These people are fanatical about oil...you will never find anyone who knows more about oil than people there. Basically what it comes down to is: ALL oils are SIGNIFICANTLY better then even 10 or 15 years ago, and continue to get better every year. The amount that synthetic has gotten better is less than the amount that conventional has gotten better, and it's now closing in on the quality of synthetic...not equal, but getting closer. Any oil on the shelf, even non-name brand (since it's made by a larger company and re-packaged by no-name distributors) is going to be just fine, but some oils are better at some things than others. Newer oil is intended more for roller (lifter, or cam follower) motors than sliding tappet/cam motors, so additives must be taken into account (i.e. ZDDP or other barrier lubricants). No oils have wax in them (even Pennziol, sorry), but nearly ALL oils are made from parafinic crude, so the confusion began by uneducated people hearing the term "parafinic" and thinking "parafin." Sudge buildup and deposits are not caused by a certain kind of oil or another, they come from usage habits, engine design, and environment conditions. period. You want more information on oil? Go visit that website, and get over "so and so told me" or "a mechanic I know says" BS that people bring up. Without cold, hard facts, based on actual scientific data (like actual studies, or virgin and used oil chemical analysis), nobody has really any grounds to be saying "this oil is better" or "this other oil causes problems." Opinions are very strong about oils especially, and you're really never going to convert anyone, but if we're having an open, intelligent discussion, let's keep it based in fact...otherwise say something like "this oil has worked well/poorly for me" ~Erik~

it's out of an '88 GL, manual transmission, 4WD ~Erik~

ok, got some pics of my two distributors. it really seems that my EA82 distributor simply has a slightly longer shaft on it than others have seen. on a test fit, the extra 1/4 inch won't be hitting anything, it's just got some empty space there, so I'm going to go ahead with it. here are the pics: the two distributors, side by side: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/data/1016/100_1647.jpg closer-up: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/data/1016/100_1648.jpg closer at the EA81 unit: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/data/1016/100_1651.jpg closer of the EA82 unit with the EA81 gear: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/data/1016/100_1652.jpg anybody ever see something like this? ~Erik~

well then that's very odd. I'll take a couple of pics tomorrow of my distributors side by side. my EA81 disty is definately a Hitachi, and the gear swaps directly over to the EA82 disty shaft...same diameter, both had roll pins that I pressed out very easily with a punch (i.e. not drilled out). Both distributors came from manual transmission, non-turbo, 4WD cars as well (my '84 EA81 and the '88 EA82 donor)....just the EA82 unit has about a 1/4" longer exposed center shaft. ANYhoo, update tomorrow... ~Erik~

actually no, it's not a Nippon Denso, it's a Hitachi, but I'm referring to the difference in exposed distributor shaft after the bottom of the housing. I know the hole will have to be re-drilled in a different location than the EA82 stock hole, but I'm just wondering about the 1/4" of shaft that sticks out beyond the gear (with thrust washer installed). there's nothing that it would be hitting, but I just want to double-check with someome who's done the swap. ~Erik~

I'm swapping an SPFI setup to my '84 Brat, I've got all my parts pulled from a donor, and now I'm swapping the gear from the EA81 distributor to the EA82 distributor. the exposed shaft lenth on the EA82 unit is longer, so when I put the thrust washer and EA81 gear on the EA82 shaft, there is about 1/4" of the shaft still sticking out the end of the gear. the EA81 shaft was about flush, even a little less than flush with the end of the gear. is this ok? normal? critically wrong? I don't see it being a problem, as it doesn't look like there's anything that it would hit, I just want to double-check with you folks who've done the swap before. ~Erik~

resistors in the plugs won't change performance, they're there (one reason, at least) to suppress RFI, Radio Frequency Interferance. Switching to non-resistor plugs will make your radio emit a crazy whistling noise that goes up and down with engine RPM, and may even mess up signals being sent to and from the computer. so no...don't switch on a street car. ~Erik~

might as well just go ahead and change it. they're super easy...just a little hidden. undo one bolt with a socket (12mm, if I recall correctly) on an extension, unclip from the harness, clip the new one in and bolt it on (that's a little harder, since it's at a bad angle). Just remember the direction it was pointing then it came out and leave the new one that way. for some reason the job pays 1 hour to do for a shop, but it takes like 5 minutes to do. maybe 10. if you've taken 15, something's wrong. the sensor is #2 on the pic. the torque value given (17.4 ft/lb) basically means "light and snug, but don't go crazy" ~Erik~

here's my old one. power everything, A/C...loaded. she's in a better place now...