Soutthpaw

Struts are oem only and about $200-300 each! there were just not enough of them to justify the making of aftermarket parts. I had an auto that I converted to stick and it was Fuel injected. the earlier ones were carbureted. Just lived with the crappy ride but good little car did 180miles round trip to work 10 times a month

According to my Alldata which I generally trust over a DIY manual, the timing for 85 86 are as follows 1781cc turbo 25* 1781CC MPFI 6* 86' 1781CC TBI 20 +/-2* 1595 & 1781cc 2v 8+/- 2*

Ok got it figured out. its all set now. Thanks. Also found that green connector which is under the dash on this model

yeah its GL10 and turbo 85 86 are 25* which is stupid cuz there is no 25* non turbo is 8*

I cannot seem the get the specified 20 degree BTDC timing on my 86 DL10 Turbo wagon. lining up the distrubutor I can get about 12 Degrees max and if i move the distributor one tooth I am at min of about 25 degrees. I have just put a new distrubutor and new timing belts on this engine too. If anyone has had the same problem or any ideas that would be great thanks DJ

Well I am in Colorado Springs area and there is a Suby Toyota wrecking yard in colorado springs but cant remember the name of it, I will have to drive by and look as for self serve yards there are 2 in town but I am sure there are more up near Denver. Maybe someone can give a list of them. if you are gonna do a ej25 then you are looking at $$ to get the parts. best bet is to get a wrecked one and buy it for parts. Remember Colorado is the #1 state for suby's and the auto wreckers know this so they snap them up fast. I just got a 86 GL-10 Turbo "not running condition" on craigslist. the guy had like 20 diff people email him the day he put up the listing. I got it cuz I offered him and extra $25 if he contacted me first.... hence you can see the demand here... got it for $200.... turns out it had broken timing belt. short in the coil pick up wires. and someone had screwed with the wiring under the dash something aweful. its running now, just gotta work the other bugs out of it... like fixing the air suspension. which I have narrowed down to either a bad height sensor in the left front strut or an intermittant computer fault

had my left front CV inner axle go out on my way through Arizona, go a new (not reman) axle from Checker auto parts for $94 US with tax. changed it in about an hour in their parking lot and finished the rest of my drive to CA.

Don't know what you are talking about, Sorry, I didn't even join this Board till after I bought the car!

WOW You got a great deal... you are on par with me and my 97 I got for $500 though I had to do some work on it after the guy had put it in a Ditch.. On the plus side I never would have done the custom bumpers etc and all the other goodies i plan on doing if I had dropped several grand on a car like this. I gotta do struts too. Advance auto has KYB's for under $400 for all four. thats my next purchase once I get the rear bumper and skid plates done.

They destroy the CV Joints, blow out the wheel bearings and tear up the rack and pinions on a regular basis.... From being a tech at a 4x4 shop I can tell you they eat the IFS up. even the Humvee's were having problems with the CV joints due to the angles

Well it's New Gen but I'll post it here anyway cuz its Cool. . Slide in winch to receiver hitch too It's my own creation... I'm in the process of doing the rear one now

Hella, They make a better light in my opinion. They do a lot of OEM lights, including the Subaru fog lights, PIAA is just a trendy marketing thing, and most accessory places will recommend PIAA due to a higher markup and profit than Hella. http://www.hella.com/produktion/HellaCOM/WebSite/HellaCOM.jsp

could be shorting your ABS wires somewhere that could cause both problems

If you keep getting the code after doing the sensor, you really need to see what the datastream is showing from the computer, it will tell you if you are running rich or lean.... rich will cause poor mileage, lean will cause the engine to run hot. if the catalytic converter is plugged it will cause back pressure and exhaust gasses will not clear the combustion chamber properly. again causing drivability problems.

I am in the springs, I am running 205/75R15's on my 97, you can see some pics here. http://www.subaruoutback.org/photopost/showgallery.php?ppuser=11416&cat=500&thumb=1 I am just about to start making a suspension lift for it. If you need work done on your Subaru or interested in a lift, PM me. Keep in mind when you go to larger tires, they may fit fine when on the highway but what you need to check is at max spring compression while turning. I had to remove my front mudflaps and hammer down the lower part of the seam in the rear of the wheel well to be sure i had no contact issues when off road. The only real reason to go with a 215/75/R15 is if you want a dedicated mud tire. a couple companies make a mudder in that size. also a 27x8.50LT15 will be about the same size. otherwise if you want a good AT tire, you can get a few AT's in 205 instead of 215's General Grabber AT2, BFG AT, Uniroyal Liberator AT (my tire) the bigger you go the more power and torque you sacrafice and the 1gens don't have a lot of that to spare like the Turbos and H6's