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phonebem

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    Layton
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    I Love My Subaru

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  1. OK I took the wire from the + terminal to tho block off, Cleaned it and put it back on and got continuity to the block (about 0.08 ohms I think) but I still don't have a spark or ignition, I followed the wire trail to the ignition relay hoping it was bad (who thought it would be a good idea to mount it BEHIND the ECU?) since it was looking like it was that, the diode from the ECO to the relay or the eek ECU. The relay looks like it works, I energized it and it flipped on for both sets of contacts. Do I have a bad ECU or should I start looking further down the ignition chain. Is there a sensor that I'm missing that may have failed that would have killed the ignition? One last thing... HAYNE'S MANUALS SUCK!!!! Sorry to yell but it's the truth, I found the relay in about 10 minutes after I bought a Chilton's today. I'll admit something didn't feel right about looking for an ignition relay in the rear of the car but sometimes older Japanese cars were just weird like that.
  2. Sorry should have been bit more specific. The fusible link block had no power to it whatsoever. 0V on all links, this was measured by disconnecting one side then measuring the voltage across connections on the block. I do have continuity to the pos side of the battery but no voltage (lost ground somewhere). Dis-regard the previous post about the lack of voltage @ the coil, I was having a short-bus day and not measuring to ground, just across coil If I follow the big red wire from the link block the next component to check seems to be the ignition relay but I can't find the dang thing! The one layout diagram in my Haynes manual I have show it somewhere in the vicinity of the pass side rear wheel on a sedan. By the way I have a '93 loyale wagon w/EA82 and 5sp tranny if that helps. It seems the only two things it can be is the relay or the ECU
  3. OK I just got done doing more checks on the Subi. Yes the fuel pump relay kicks on, I don't have any voltage going to the coil or either green fusible link. All normal dash indicators come on and other 12V lights etc come on. All fuses in fuse block are OK along with all fusible links on the box on the washer fluid tank. (They were checked with an ohmmeter to be sure). Remember car still cranked (didn't do it tonight because I have the timing belt covers off along with the fan etc.) but it did untill I killed the battery. One thing I did notice was the condenser cap(acitor) acted funny, it held a constant resistance instead of building a resistance as it charged like a normal cap. I doubt this is the problem since 12V isn't getting there either. Does this help anyone get any closer to what is wrong with my car??? Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
  4. If you insist on painting go with WR Blue with the Subaru Rally graphics:headbang:
  5. Excellent, the weather is clearing now and I'm getting the battery charged tonight (I accidentally left the dome light switch on... Dee dee-dee) so I'll try check everything tomorrow. I'm pretty sure all the fuses are good, they actually were the first things I checked but I'll check again to be sure. Another unrelated bit of news, I may be looking at a parts pig tomorrow too, I found a '92 with a questionable tranny with a supposedly good motor (donor) since I'm thinking I have a couple burnt exhaust valves in the pass. side bank from an exhaust leak. I'm betting the price for the donor is less than the price for parts/my time for a rebuild.
  6. The funny thing is that this week has been the first real rain we've had in Utah since spring... Exactly when I need to work on my car ( the garage is too full of other toys).
  7. Thanks, I would double check all of that now but we are having some serious crap weather right now and I'd really rather not be standing in a puddle checking coil voltages if you know what I mean...
  8. First off, hi everyone I'm new (first post in fact) so be nice if I can't make the most informed of questions. Earlier this summer I was driving along the interstate in my '93 Loyale wagon when suddenly the ignition quits. I tried a couple of times to bump start it while moving to no avail. Once I rolled to a stop, luckily I was going down a pretty steep hill, the engine would crank but not fire. As I said there was no hesitation, sputtering, shudder, engine grenading sounds, the engine just stopped as if I shut off the ignition. First I pulled off the distributor to see if the rotor would spin when I cranked... It did. Second I checked spark at the plugs... none. I didn't check for spark at the coil but I did replace it anyway because it looked pretty bad regardless and a new one was cheap. The distributor and rotor are about a year old. After all this I figued broken timing belt... Both are there, intact with correct timing. Please help me because I'm out of ideas. Is there a ballast resistor in the ignition that may have blown? I'm pretty much at a loss right now.
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