ihscout54

Thanks for the contribution and nice work.

Dave called this one. There is a 10 ga wire that should come out of your pos (+) terminal and connect to the fusible link box. This connection is a common failure point. It may have come loose or be badly corroded at the battery terminal or the spade connector on the junction block. Ide also inspect the neg (-) connection on the engine block and the small wire to the body.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/160932-revolution-sensorfpcuwill-this-work/

The post above, is another very good possibility. Actually im pretty sure he nailed it. Thanks John, your fuel pressure is high, and your not getting fuel through the system. I had forgotten that the lines were the same size.

As I said youll be fine, if they were that bad Im sure there would be more out there about terrible quality issues.

Pro bono...

Did you read the link, honestly I only skimmed it. They know very few will bother to actually consume the disclaimer. It seems they get use of name "Weber" because they paid MM to do so, and end product meets the requirements. WorldPac is pretty big parts distributor. We have a lawyer on the case, Loyale 2.7 tell us if this legit or at least from the brand of law you practice. I agree it seems shady, and I know the laws are likely different there. I will add that the European higher quality looking unit is a "Redline Weber" and it bears the logo clearly on the box. Not just with a lil smidge of red paint.

http://www.ebay.com/gds/What-Is-A-Genuine-Weber-Carburetor-/10000000204837562/g.html Lame, looks legal. Loyale 2.7 aren't you a lawyer? No mater I think you will be fine. General rule of thumb white choke cover Europe, Black cover Asia. Accurate? Dunno. There is also about 50 bux difference in cost, that's a red flag as well.

They are another weber clone, those units from interco happen to be made in China. IIRC didnt they get in some trouble because they claimed "assembled in the usa" and the only assembly was putting them in the box? Or was that EMPI? There is the competitavely priced thing too, but we Americans seem to get what we pay for. The way they are advertised is a little scetchy, and it likely causes many of their customers to install and run without ever knowing that their carb isnt the real thing. In this modern global system so many things are this way, you have to ask what is the real thing? The carbs are made to spec (or so they claim) jets and components supposedly interchange and material quality meets somebody's spec. Actual reviews seem ok but rare, theres more name calling and baseless liabel on the net about them because they are made in Asia. These reviews I read were blasting products like the carb you ordered or "knock off China garbage" and it sounded like many folks were ,in their minds, smart enough not to buy such things. Im sure they have a house full of foreign made items just like the rest of us, but certainly not a weber with a black choke cap. Call it bad with out ever touching one.... Im more of an innocent befor proven guilty guy and if I was in the same situation as you Ide take the above advice and tune/run with no fear. Unless of corse some board memeber has a horror story to share about this exact product. As soon as you take the carb out of the box torque check all screws, especially the throttle butterfly's. Then proceed. Please keep us updated and maybe give us an honest review.

On the older black ECU's auto/manual was dictated by status of the harness. Sensors, switches, and a ground. If your unit works the same or similar and your driving around as an auto with a stick Im sure there is to be consequences. One could easily be an IAC code and idle issues. Ide like to give specifics but I fear leading you in the wrong direction as all I am familure with is the older black ECU's.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/125351-ea81-weber-3236-jetting-question/ Maybe this could be useful as a starting point, lots of info in those threads (EA81 tho). Without proper tuning gear and experiance with these carbs one would have to start guessing somewhere. Our area is interesting when it comes to jetting or dialing a carb, and what one fellow recommends isnt always gunna work for another. Let us know if the base jetting you select ends up working out for you.

Are you converting to Weber? You could always order a decent regulator ($$$) or even try one of those cheapy Spectare type regulators, but 9 psi might be pushing it. Im not familure with the Hitachi that has the integral return line.

Last time I was at Upickit there were 2 EA82's and one EA81 car, pretty sure I saw a couple carbs. Something could easily be built from hardware store fittings. It would be more of a "Tee" but the hoses are flexable. IIRC the return is 1/8 and the supply is 5/16 (on EA81's) Ide guess your car would be the same. Another option is to buy w 5/16 "WYE" and then splice in a 5/16 to 1/8 adaptor down stream on the return side. Get creative, heck use a 4 way and install a mini fuel pressure gauge. Theres a place called Yavapai Fleet on Washington off Sheldon, thats great for these sort of things, good prices too. If thats not convenient between Lowes and Autozone Ide think you could make something work.

The trans is in need of a rebuild or replacement. At the very least it needs removed and partially disassembled. Sorry, its a fairly common way for them to die.

Well something sure changed. Good chance that functionality of the CAT played a roll here since readings across the board are lower. I also need to note the idle was at spec in the final test, since that was the biggest red flag to me. Something went wrong there in the first test for sure. Nicely done DaveT

Any codes? Sounds like a possible disty problem to me. If you still need a copy of an FSM pm me with an email address.

Could we see the results? Its not important now but for fun, since this thread is a mile long anyways.

Im not a fan of rebuilts, they are almost as big a roll of the dice as junk yard units. We really have no choice with EA81's, though. You need a new thread on this! You need a diagnostic ASAP.

2x8's are cheap and readily available. If it looks this good on a $18000 Vanagon Syncro it would be fantastic on your rig! Treat with some Thompsons to protect your investment. Avoid earth to wood contact to reduce risk of termites. Good luck!

My FSM says 8.5mm (.335"). it also says woven asbestos for the material. It may have little value when being compared to an aftermarket kit.

IIRC the fsm has the specs for disk inspection, Looking online at rockauto they list several options but the pics all look the same for the 8-7/8. Take your kit with you to the first auto parts store that says thay have the right kit for your car instock. Bring your caliper and compare your kit to the kit they have.

Wholesaler closeout indeed. Going on intuition and imagination Ide say you have a parts issue. Not alot of possibilities here. Weather its a defect or compatibility issue (not uncommon in the ea81 world) you may be looking for a new set. Its odd they appear the same as what was removed. Did put a caliper on the disks?

You sure this kit is an exact match to the parts removed? 1: how does the disk fit in the flywheel? 2: long shot - but do the splines of the disk match the splines on the trans? 3: what prompted you to replace the clutch?

Tom, Im not sure if the auto/manual, 49st/Cal grounding pin signifier applies to the silver Loyale ECM. If it does Ide like to know Ive avoided these ECMs for years. They had some wiring differences and the additional "in gear" sensor. Or so Ive read.

My first reply to this thread addressed the distributor/ECM wiring incompatibilities. Pretty sure 88 or 89 and up are all compatible. 86-88 have some wires swapped around. Its a real simple fix but you have to figure out which wires. Ive been through this once. If its possible the disty is an 87 then its possible you most certainly wont get spark.