ihscout54

If the voltage regulator works and you have a wiring diagram then I would guess you could run a jumper wire from the regulator to the pump. I dont have a diagram handy so I will not be giving you specifics. If you really wanted to bypass the stock setup then some means of keeping the pump from running while the engine isnt should be used. This is not just for safety, and anyone equipped to properly install such a setup would probably simply repair the factory wiring. I dont know if you guys are equipped to properly tackle this. The wiring on that car is in an unfortunate state, and needs some reworking. If you choose to simply run a switch and wire all the way to the fuel pump, it would be best to use a keyed source and obviously a fuse. After winning the fuel pump battle, I fear other issues will come up/continue. I have played with vehicles that had a small fire or rat infestation and it requires more than a test light, but connectors, and wire nuts. Im not making fun of you guys, simply feeling your pain. Befor you rig it Ide try to figure out whats going on with the wire from the regulator feeding the pump.

Im going to assume this is an EA82 feedback carb, which I have little experience with. Does the wire "half" hanging from the exhaust have the connector? From the car side of the connector the wire should be a shielded wire, likely grey with a light gauge white wire inside. you would probably have to pull the wire up into the engine bay and judge where it would have broken to locate the other half. Take the spare tire out first. There is the possibility that the cat/exhaust is off a different car, or the feedback system was removed and the sensor wire was not clipped off at the sensor. You might want to verify that the car has a functioning ecm, and that it is actually a feedback model. I think Ive read posts boasting that replacing the O2S on these systems was a miracle cure. Im unsure if the missing O2S signal could be the source or your stalling issue. The feedback system is a bit more of a fine tune device which does have some control over the idle mixture, via the low speed solenoid. The one wire O2S on these cars have a tendency to be slow to warm up and quick to cool off. They will stop sending signals at long stop lights. On the EA81 feedbacks, after a long drive with no input from the sensor the system would fault, and run full rich (decreasing MPGs). I had invested much time in the feedback EA81s, or should I say wasted much time.

Mom and pop fuel stations are more likely to get a bad batch of gas than say costco. Call or stop in, ask them If others are having issues. You wont be the only one. Its possible if the fuel is contaminated the car would run "leaner" causing your symptoms, including running hotter and probably pinging. The exhaust may smell odd as well. If you find out the gas was bad dont waiste money on filters till you dump it. Sorry, I keep getting inturupted while trying to post. If you suspect this is your issue keep in mind that you have no idea what that fuel is contaminated with. It may be no big deal, but it could also seize valves and burn pistons. Ide probably eleminate this as a possibility befor adding too many miles too the odometer.

Are the fan/s coming on and running constantly? Do you have a way to verify if the car is actually running hot? Its possible your lean condition is causing you to run warmer. Running warmer, but not overheating can be a bad thing... Have you done the simple checks, like looking for vac leaks or making sure youre getting a good fuel flow? Forgot to mention to make sure your secondary isnt stuck open, had this happen once and made the car idle high and hard to start.

Some 87 4wds seemed to end up with carbs. All that Ive seen were SPFI. If its 2wd it should be FI, but there is the possiblity its been converted. So, only way to really know is ask for pix, or go look. Im with you, if I can get the choice of carb or FI, Ide always choose FI. Unfortunately these cars are getting a bit rare. Having the liberty of choice is not such a reality any more, and one may have to take what they can get.

Rockauto does this to me all the time. They fill orders with whats compatible. You paid for a good one and got what ever they had. I agree with both posters above me. But, I think that they will both work, the right one looks high quality, the left... Well no matter they'll last the life of your axles. Use em and move on with you projects. I will add that new BJ's shouldnt "move easily". They should be stiff and tight. If its floppy and easy to move or wobble around, like the one your about to pull out, its not right. Good iuck with the install.

On your car (which is fairly different from his) the steel fuel line from the tank that leads to the pump is above the nipple on the tank. In your case, if say on an incline and low on fuel, your not going to get a gravity feed at the pump. The fuel line could be easily bypassed with a rubber line and zip tied to the steel piping for testing or perminant fix purposes. At this time you could clear the tank nipple with a pic. You should have fuel dribbling out of the nipple... Just incase you didnt know there is a return nipple next to the pickup on the tank. Its smaller like 1/8". There is also a vent line than runs by down there. I dont see how these could get mixed up but might make sure everyone is where they are supposed to be. Grandam, you mention a tight bend or kink in the line supplying the pump. You could try to eleminate this as an issue by using a hose clamp or zip tie in the vertex of the kink. Make it just tight enough to open the kink and hold it that way. This may reduce the restriction and ensure it cant be sucked shut. Edit: I suppose I should add that this is for testing purposes only, and obviosly wont work on a tight kink (V) but may work on a hard bend (U). If this is found to be the issue a rigid tube bend of sorts would need installed.

There was a reason the stock pump had such a large line feeding it, and it had a good gravity feed. Could your problem be something else? Coincidences are never fun in the diagnostic world. There is always the option of investing in a quality stock style fuel pump. If I didnt have, or want to invest in, proper diag tools this is the route Ide take.

You have 2 posts that are similar. Im only going to reply to this one. I built my own bracket and used a lift pump on my ea81 brat. Details of my install are of little value to your conversion. Your problem sounds like what I would expect from use of this pump. These things are poor pullers/suckers, they require a very good gravity feed, or a lift pump to feed them. What I suspect is that you have a "gpm" problem. At idle and low load it seems ok. Once under load the pump simply fails to deliver. To test this you need a fuel pressure gauge and a way to stub in to the delivery line. If that looked ok one would also have to be able to see it while driving under load. For fun make sure the pump is well below the tank with a straight restriction free supply line. Give the pump a dedicated ground, and consider using 12 ga wiring from the battery through the relay to the pumps pigtail. Check ur battery connections and grounds. The noise from the pump varies with engine speed and with electrical load? No suprise because its so noisy. Tell us more about the gauge issue.

For 13k... not worth it. 130k, it would be the right thing to do.

My opinion 4" is too tall. I like the look of the stock wheels. I want a 2" for mine. I find myself asking this same question. Really who cares its your car. Lift it, and enjoy it. Does it really matter what its worth to someoneit else? Im not a big fan of the collector car boom, takes the fun out of old cars.

Wow tweety, thanks for the read. You always have the coolest pics. Wheres the girls? Im not a fan of forced induction on gas engines. But, then again, Im more of a keep it on the road junk yard kinda guy. What you have done is inspiring and our community needs more of this.

Btw I see the rust on that wrist pin plug behind the water pump. give it the overnight P.B. Marinade.

Personally Ide leave the pickup tube in. I realize the o-ring is tempting to replace but its almost impossible to get the tube out without damaging the mating surface. If you must u need a soft metal chisel. Unbolt it from the block (do not loosen the clamp its needed for proper alignment). Hit it HARD on the o-ring flange right where it sits slightly above the oil pan mating surface. Keep ur chisel as true with this surface as possible, or you will crush the tube. You will have to file the nicked edges down, as I said it will get damaged. Reinstall requires some time in the freezer.... That distributor is a Nippondenso which appears to be incomplete. Cant say what year it is, early ones had external modules, later had internal. My opinion; find another disty Hitachi (reman only with internal modual 1981 +) or Nippondenso (used or new with internal module 1982 +) there are other options we can discuss when the time comes. Either will fit, the only difference with install between the 2 is one tooth. I have always dumped the Hitachi for F.I. Or a Nipp, due to the well known play issue with them.

Since most EA81 engines left out there have been well used, and they were built a little more dispose-ably (compared to say a Cummins ISB) Ive not had the best luck finding a good/easy core. The liners get out of round from rod issues or what ever, deep scores pits etc. Ive ran into the oil pickup tube being bent from a crushed pan due to mishandling and cams that are often pitted. I wish there was more out there for these engines. Im hoping in time more parts will find their way on to the web for us.

Oh i hadnt forgotten the rare mpfi unit. It simply isnt real common and certainly wouldnt be a real good "fit" for his swap needs.

This is a start. My fingers are crossed for a pit free cam, scoreless round cyls and a sweet crank. I just lost 2 core motors to a flood so wishing you good luck. The hardest part of the tear down is getting the wrist pins out. The plug for the #2 pin will either come right out, or it wont. Youll see what Im talking about when you get there. A long bolt, nut, washers and piece of fuel hose make a great wrist pin puller.

The mode select has vacuum operated switch. Pretty sure its to control the intake door (for fresh air or recirculate). Thats the only actuator coming to mind. Its located on the far passenger side tucked under the dash and attached to the blower motor case. Cant say it was still there for the '86 model tho.

If your talking EA82 search the forum for EA82 tick of death or TOD in google. Lots of info about it.

They do but they are very expensive as they are geared more toward high output experimental aircraft builds. Get ur rebuild kit off ebay or google "rpm machine ea81 kit". The weber kits are on ebay or here on this site in the usmb store. Take pix and share your build.

Also worth mentioning, you will have to create some swing room to slide the DOJ off the trans stub. There are a few ways to do this. You could remove the pinch bolt for the ball joint on the knuckle and pry the knuckle open. Then beat the control arm till the ball joint pops out. You risk cracking the knuckle this way. Could also try to remove the lower nut for the ball joint pivot shaft and separate the joint from the control arm. Doing this would likely ruin the joint and its boot. If your due for ball joints then just plan on doing this and have the joint ready to install during reassembly. This is what I have always done. Another option is to unclamp the sway bar and remove an inner control arm bolt...

+1 This is very important. I guess its an easy mistake to make, keep in mind that the pin is smaller than the hole in the tranny stub. Its held tight by the axle itself. In other words, if it gets difficult to "TAP" in right away or half way stop take it out and reassess. It should go in smoothly without intense hammering. Ive removed a couple of axles that were installed one tooth off, 180 out or what ever, and its 4-6 hours of hard work and costs about 4 drill bits, 2 awls and one thumb nail per axle. Those pins are made of the hardest diamond steel known in Japan. Unless the axle nut was loose the cone washer will be stuck. It needs a tapping, where its cut, with a tiny flat blade or a small pick. Inspect the splines of the hub as its a common failure. The cone and lock washers arent supposed to be reusable. Youll have to make that call, unless they were loose I generally reuse them. The only other common nuisance Ive run into is axles that are real tight in the hub/bearings. Some pull right out with almost no resistance. Takes a little hammering for removal and light impacting wrenching for install. Be aware of the risks or ruining the wheel bearings, and threads on the axle.

How bad is the noise? Those things can last a long time like that. If its only under acceleration in hard turns Ide reboot it. Those Dorman Speedi boots are kinda pricey and hard to come by, can be found on ebay still. They suck, but if the axle is weak anyways maybe this will get you another 25k with minimal work. Ive had some trouble with aftermarket axles. Sometimes a clicking factory axle, is better than a $60 dollar piece of crap. The boots are terrible on aftermarket axles and Ive had remans make that noise right out of the box. With these cars, the only options are reman or aftermarket. There's posts that say people have had good luck with the Empire axles and they run like 60 bux shipped. I wonder If CCR is still offering axles for our cars.

Bear with me, Im totally not familiar with the EA82T in any way. So my info will have to be generic. Im guessing you have an engine driven fan also? If so the electric fan is there for a/c performance at low speeds not just additional engine cooling. No matter you need the fan working. The pressure switch has 4 pins and controls (+) to the compressor clutch and (-) trigger for the fan relay? If you were wiring savvy enough to locate this issue, your more than capable of triggering the relay in a different way. Say, from the AC switch on the dash, or just wire tapping the hot for the clutch and to the (+) trigger on the fan relay. Then permanently ground the (-) trigger on the relay. It was not wired that way stock for a reason. Probably so the fan could be triggered by a temp switch in the radiator as well. If this is the case the fan should turn on when the radiator gets x-degrees hot, and a work around would be more complex. Not sure how this is wired so just giving you ideas. The dryers usually have a schrader valve behind the pressure switch so the switch could be replaced without evacuating system.