ihscout54

http://www.ramengines.com/

If your planning to go full custom carburetion any of the manifolds could be made to work via adapters.. Plain old Weber install, stick with the Hitachi manifolds. Just so your aware there are 4 (common) manifold options available. The EA81 carter 1bbl, the EA81 Hitachi 2bbl, EA82 Hitachi 2bbl, and EA82 SPFI with a big round hole and probably the best breather. The EA81 manifolds have the thermostat housing in the rear, the EA82 is in the front. This may be an important factor in making your decision. The EA82 manifolds would likely make little real world difference, unless your building a 120hp monster engine to run at 6500 RPMs all day.

Most, but not all 4 pin relays were interchangeable. The very early metal ones were different in some way. I toss them and rewire. Tons of old Japanese cars use similar relays. If you cannot get to a junkyard the part number you gave is a Subaru number and you should be able to buy one online.

I think his car is an EA82. Dont know if they are the same as the EA81s.

Gem! Congratulations on that find.

It depends which ignition system you have the nippondenso (2wd) or hitachi (4wd) and the year (ballast resistor). Really just about any coil with similar resistance values will work. 1.4ish ohms primary, and 10k-ish secondary will probably be ok for either system. Maybe not ideal but ok.

Cv joints usually only make noise while turning and accelerating till they are about to blow. What popped into my head is a loose caliper and brake pad. This would drown out at speed. Does it disappear when you apply the brakes?

You have discovered one disadvantage of having such a powerful tool at your disposal. Uncovering an oddity, like the mismatched exhaust temps, is not surprising. Since your sitting at idle i wouldnt worry too much about it. Could simply be a difference in where the laser was hitting the pipe. Perhaps its just because the pipe is a little longer on the driver side with an additional bend (especially with the cheapy aftermarket cats). Maybe its a vac leak or valve adjustment issue. More testing would be required. Back to your temp gauge reading issue, you need to drive the car and fully warm it up. The fans kick on at 205ish degrees radiator temp, and off at like 195 or so. Since they are cycling, especially at idle, ide say your not overheating and coolant is flowing. You mentioned 105 degrees, where was that? Does it seem that the other gauges read high? Was your battery weak after you installed everything? I have found that any time there is big load on the alternetor my temp and fuel gauges read a little higher. Not overheating but noticeable. So a weak battery and dual fans kicking on is enough to upset that reading, its gotten better because the battery has been slowly charging by your tinkering. Just a theory.

I imagine using this would be something like setting a cutting torch. The orange smokey flame is pig rich. As you adjust, it goes blue then, a little lighter blue and pop it goes out. This works fine i suppose while your turning your idle mixture screw. When it comes to dialing in your jets, well I guess you will have to tell us.

Zosojojo, did not really confirm the presence of any head gasket symptoms. He mentioned bubbles after warmup but he also has done quite a bit of cooling system work. As 2.5LOYALE said you have testing to do. Do the fans cycle or just stay on constantly? The first thing you need to do is verify that its actually overheating. Youll need access to a infrared temp gun, or a mechanical temp gauge. You really cannot put alot of faith in stock gauges. If you do end up having to do a head gasket, then you can redo your clutch job. Its only time, oh and money.

It wouldnt be hard to tap in a "555 type" delay timer contraption to trigger when key on, but seems more work than gain. Or simply a primer button, done it befor, it works. But i have 5 registered cars that spend alot of time sitting. http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-DC-12V-Delay-Timer-Switch-Adjustable-Module-0-to-10-Second-/190888145497?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c71d1f259 If your cranking time has increased due, solely, to this small change then Ide say you have another issue. The lack of priming cycle should have no effect on normal starting. Fuel should be spilling into the float as soon as you turn the starter. Remember the float is a reservoir as well. Since you have not let the car sit for any real length of time you may have a leak. If the leak is internal the car will be hard to start hot due to the over rich condition, and hardish to start cold do to a dry bowl. Fuel will disappear after days/weeks of sitting but not overnight. Ive also found this to be a TRUTH, so please understand Im not belittling you in any way... The placebo effect. Since you noticed this absence of priming, it may have made you a little more critical of your starts. I do it to myself all the time. Just the other day my wife was whining about a rough idle on the Accord. I pulled it into the garage, dropped a couple of wrenches on the floor (loudly) and had a beer. Then I told her it was fixed, gave here some auto mumbo jumbo about vacuum leaks. She told me the next day it hasnt run this good in years.

I saw this being used on a, collector car, reality TV show not long ago. Kinda neat idea, seems pretty archaic. Not sure how expensive such a tool is, but the fact that it is uncommon here tells me its not real useful. Maybe its a euro type thing as Ive never seen one in person. For that reason Im being a naysayer. Buy a Vacuum gauge, or save up for a wide band setup. Even if your poor, theres tons of stuff all over the web on making an a/f meter out of a standard 02 sensor cheaply. That would be of much greater value for tuning (IMO). Judging from the quality of your builds I kinda doubt you need such a toy anyways. I bet your "gut" would be just as accurate.

Tip: P.B. (Penetrating Blaster) its your friend. I like to marinade such things for at least an hour, if not over night. Soak it, wait a bit then reapply. A quarter isnt a smooth flush plate but it works. Knock outs from an EMT box dont work that well, the 1/2 is too small, the 3/4 is too big and requires grinding. No matter, you get the idea. Good luck, no doubt you will tackle this.

The fuel lines are 5/16 and 1/2. Youll need to hit the hardware store to build an adaptor. The pump you have wont come with the strainer inside. It was designed to have an intank lift pump with a strainer feed it. You only need high psi hose on the output side of the pump. Your noisy fuel pump is a commonish complaint, Bet it varies when the turn signal is blinking. Ive used the same ford style pump on one of my EA81 SPFI conversions, it was about as loud as a chainsaw in the cab. Likely due to the way the fuel lines run in the EA81 cars. I used a lift pump for it as the my car gave me poor provisions for a good gravity feed. The pump had the ford style disconect barbs which I was able to force the 5/16s hoses over. I have a couple other issues with this setup that likely wouldnt effect your swap.

If you dont have to pass an emissions inspection dump the system. Search the forum for "the quarter trick" you will see what others are doing. It involves cutting the piping and using a quarter to plug the hole in the exhaust spacers. Heres one thread of many out there (with pics!) http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/142515-thanks-usmb-for-the-quarter-in-asv-mod/ If your lucky enough your car may be equipped with an AAV as well. In that case, the egr valve will need to be replaced too with one from an EA82 car or at least one without the giant hose barb on it. If your blow out is the spacer itself your luck continues... You must keep the exhaust spacer/s, make a new spacer or change exhausts to ea82 etc.

I as well, have noticed others mentioning the priming cycle. Yet Ive never noticed any of my cars do it. Altho ive never kept the stock setup for long either. There are several different revolution sensors that Ive seen. 4 pin, a gray 6, and a black 6 pin. Perhapse one of them has an internal timer circuit. Sure hope its solved.

Im not aware of a priming cycle for these cars. As Ive mentioned it needs a tach signal. If you drive the car regularly this wont be an issue even if it sits for days and the float chamber runs dry a couple extra seconds of cranking and pedal pumping is all that you will need. The switch you installed should be fine.

Bypass the FPCU for now. Solve your spark issue 1st. Im wondering if your meters are fine but the module is not. Remember you cant get fuel without tach pulses (spark). If your really getting fed up you could try running a wire right off the battery to the (+) of the coil. If that works then hook the up FPCU and try the same test with it installed. If all is solved your issue lies with the ign switch or the wiring. My opinion....

Are you refurring to the ign module?

Disconnecting power to the coil, with ign in run, will cause the the FPCU to trigger momentarily. Its normal as the breach creates the pulse effect its looking for. You could keep it going by hooking and unhooking. Dont do it tho . The wire that is giving you grief is the power for the ignition system and ties in somewhere heading to that fuse you noticed had the same effect. What your noticing sounds normal, as long as the FPCU only turns the pump on for a second or 2. If it runs continuously with the fuse out Ide think the relay inside may be hanging up.

Stock, the fuel pump on your car should be powered by the voltage regulator to prevent it from running if the engine is not turning. Without looking at a diagram I cannot tell you if that is bypassed during cranking (for priming). Again could be similar to what you have already been through. Wiring, the regulator or alternator. the voltage regulator could have easily been fried due to the current condition the harness is in. It may simply not be hooked up correctly. Maybe the pump could be intermittent or poorly grounded. Once this is is solved will the gremlins continue?

The part numbers are for the distributor magnet he mentioned. I kinda think such a failure would be due to the well known slop these distributors develop. That would have been a tough one to pin down. There is also several points for wire connections to weaken or corrode. The nuts on the posts of the coil could be loose. A ring terminal there could be failing at the crimp. Then theres also the connections on the module under the cap.

If your car is stock then the linkage will have adjustment points on the range selector rod. It is on the transmission to the passenger side. If its actually a failure of the trans and that's its only issue I think you can survive with out it.

If you are bypassing the FPCU correctly then you should be able to get fuel despite the failure. Are you sure you are having intermittent no spark? The ignition module is under the disty cap. It gets its power at the coil. IIRC tach signal wire is yellow from the coil to the tach and at the FPCU, not sure where it splits in the harness tho. Do you have a tach? I realize the safety factor and purpose of this system, but if the ignition module checks out and you know you have proper voltage to the FPCU (the controller is bad or wiring mystery) it might be time to just consider a permanent work around. You could simply wire up the pump to the run position of the ign switch. Or if your like me there would be a relay (-) triggered by an oil pressure switch, which could also be triggered by a seat belt timer relay, or such, that would be thermostatically controlled (for priming). I m just that wacky... Im also a huge fan of eliminating hard to find old parts and replacing them with stuff thats readily available.

The best "upgrade" your gunna find is something like this. Ive used it a few times on other vehicles and may be doing this to my hatch soon. It would require a Nippondenso disty or an older style hitachi with external module. This kinda rules out alot of us. Ive not tried it on one of our cars yet as the stock systems had been fine. Weve discussed this befor. If someone boasts a power increase on a stock setup from upgrading or swapping ign systems (electronic for electronic) they most likely had a problem resolved by the swap, or decided to advance their timing a bit more during the upgrade. If you guys are interested in more info we should start another thread. This one is going so well.