ihscout54

The FPCU or revolution sensor doesnt run the coil or disty. It uses the tach signal to trigger an internal relay for the fuel pump and, on some cars, the choke element. So if you dont have spark you cant get fuel. Theres probably nothing wrong with that sensor. Toms post suggests a much more likely cause for your troubles (intermittent wiring issue).

EJs are very expensive in the south west. You can find ok deals on cars with problems and 250k, IMO that wouldn't be an upgrade. The EJ22 and EJ18s are drying up pretty fast and the EJ25s almost always are toast. Rebuild costs for an EJ exceed that of an international V8 and sometimes shadow diesel rebuilds. Theres also competion from subaru mechanics, Vanagon dorks, sand rail guys and experimental aircrafters. Its likely I will never have the pleasure of EJaying it.

Ide check the shifter for slop and linkage adjustment first (if applicable). If its not positively engaging low range it wont hold under load. A couple drilled holes and a bungee cord would be the next step.

So are you using oil only and not antifreeze? Oil consumption is not a key symptom of a HG issue. Things like bubbles in the radiator, crankcase fluid mixing, running hot, and sweet n sour (more like acrid smelling) steam from the exhaust are a little more common. What makes you think HG?

How blown are we talking? Huge billows of white smoke with gray/brown foamy meringue filled radiator and crankcase? If its not, or its only running a bit warm with some small signs of failures Im going to throw something out here that I will be crucified for... Google "Sodium Silicate": Bars leaks 1111, steal seal, etc. forget the higher dollar treatments that are labor intensive and require flushing and running for ever with water only bla bla bla. If your going to go thru all that just do the HG. Poor it in and go juice is what you want. This is no definative repair, and it does leave gel like stuff the the cooling system. You can always tell if this has been used when you pull the rad cap. If you are not equiped to deal with a head and or gasket repair right now and the car is just a short trip around town rig this is worth looking into. Otherwise what will be the cars fate? To you pros out there I hate fixacan crap too, so blast me if you will, but Im hearing that manufacturers are putting small doses of this stuff in their antifreeze to help prevent issues from poor castings and such. Sorry for the bad news.

Look under the dash directly beneath the steering column or actually bolted to it. If there is an ECM thats where it would be. Just becuae its not there doesnt mean the carb is non feedback. Just may mean the system is incomplete/inoperative. The car will run without this but will be very rich. If its from colorado I dont see it being a feedback 4wd but again who knows whats been done over the years. My opionions only and as they say "worth the price charged" keep us posted.

I doubt that would cause your instant stalling symptom. To test remove the vac line at the disty, and plug the line with ur finger. If no vacuum is felt and the idle stays the same then you are probably on the right port. If the idle drops and you feel vacuum then your line is hooked to manifold vac and thats incorrect. It needs to find a tuned port on the front of the carb. Not sure about the ea82 carb tuned port location.

This does sound more like the 1bbl Carter the Hitachi is 2bbl. There is more wiring here you didnt notice, choke element is one you missed. Its also totally possible the engine or fuel system is not original. The "fuel cut valve" you mention could easily be the feedback metering solenoid on the Carter carb. The idle up is more likely the idle stop solenoid on the Carter. No matter, if you do have the Carter my opinion is: time to start looking for another fuel system including the manifold and carb itself. Parts for these are expensive and rare. Carter Hitachi Thank you nationalcarburetors.com

I sorta doubt he has the Carter/Weber and if he did it would (in stock form) have very likely been a feedback. Feedback models are computer controlled. You bring up a good point. The high altitude kits would seem a rareish afterthought. A market requiring these kits be installed from day one would have been small. Seriously other than some places in Wyoming, New Mexico, Colorado, Arizona etc. not many cars would have had these installed. Most cars of the area would have struggled at 10k. Even with this kit installed as you said it still wouldnt go over 10k. In your state Ide bet the majority of the cars were fitted with these kits, since your biggest city is over 5k ft. My region varies from 3000-7800ft quickly. In the 80s I doubt there was a Subaru dealer in the area (a new car would come from Phoenix) and not have such a kit installed. Even if they were sold in Flagstaff it was a different era, there was no internet. Just phone books and rotary phones. People had to commute to the valley for work, or drive all over to find a vacuum bag because Sears Roebuck of Prescott did not service Fingerhutt vacuums. For this reason areas like mine probably did not get the kit. Im so glad we have the tech we have. Unfortuneately I wasite way to much time typing pointless essays. Guess its time to get busy actually doing stuff!

The purpose of the kit was probably not performance but rather emissions. Its installation would have some effect on drive-ability. I actually think the HA kit consisted of only external mods. Perhapse, timing was readjusted and some vacuum lines were rerouted and/or installed with different size orifices that ran to the carb air bleeds. I have some info in the posted thread on these passages. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/154295-just-plug-it-taking-some-of-the-mystery-out-of-your-hitachi/ Of corse I could be wrong. And it may not matter because you may have a feedback carburetor, in that case the ECM is set in high alt mode and there are additional gizmos involved. Again tho i think the carb internals remained untouched. If it is a feedback unit you wont be saving it. http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUBARU-HI-ALTITUDE-KIT-3D-4D-WAGON-4WD-/261147931818

Basics first... How old is the gas in the tank and how much is is in there? Did you rebuild the carb? Recheck your float setting. Recheck your timing Any way to check for fuel pressure or at least flow?

Module is under the cap. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/147150-brat-electrical-qs/ Sorry guys I had missed your old thread. You did not mention that mess. Since this has been stumping you for over a year now its time to get serious. Forget just getting it started. Even if you do get the car running how long will it run and how many other lil electric gremlins will you have? This needs some rewiring and you need some new tools and materials. Like an ohm meter, soldering iron, wire, heat shrink, etc. If you just need to get the car moved you could rig something up with a fuse and a switch. Also your car is a 1st gen body style. Perhapse the historic guys will be of more help to you with diagrams an such.

I fear were confusing the O.P. Im sorry this was meant to be a trouble tree of things to test for. Doubt it would be all of them, just one. You probably have a hitachi disty. Since you say there is 2 wires going from the disty directly to the coil Ide say he doesnt have the old style external module. Hence no ballast resistor. The manual you have shows the resistor because its generic and showing the Nippondenso setup. Brat69, Do you know if your ignition module is external or under your disty cap? I do not have a wiring diagram for your 81 so I cannot offer any specs on where the system gets its power. What exactly did you "swap around"? With the switch in the "run/on" position does anything else work? Have you checked your fuses?

Its been so long since ive touched the older ignitions. Pretty sure during cranking full battery voltage is put too the coil and in run/on the voltage is run through a ballast resistor befor the coil. So: Your ballast resistor is bad You have a wiring problem Your ign switch is bad. The spark from your coil should be loud and blue.

The dieseling is very likely the high/hot idle. With a warmed up engine, disconnect the cable from the carb. Work the throttle and see if the problem is still there to eliminate the cable from the equation. Your throttle cable could be toast. The carb being backwards means theres likely a u-bend in the cable which would cause rubbing or fraying inside the cable. If either point (at the pedal or the carb) where the cable exits its sheathing is at a bad angle the cable is probably not good any more. These issues may not cause any trouble at first, but after some miles that cable becomes the piano wire in a James Bond movie. You may not have a throttle return spring or it may be weak. Dont rely on the little spring thats on the throttle shaft. Any part of the linkage could be gummed up or bent, secondary could be sticking, the main throttle shaft could be worn and causing the butterfly to be slightly misaligned and "catchy" in the bore....

This includes leaks or a leak in the intake boot befor the mass air flow sensor. Even a smaller leak can throw the MAF readings off enough to stall at idle. Things like this arent real easy to check for with a car that wont idle. At least on these cars there isnt a whole lot to check.

Is this on the 92 Loyale? That car doesnt have an ignition module in the disty. The coil wont pulse spark if the disty isnt turning. Are you getting pulsing sparks? What does the spark look like? If its not bright and blue thats not correct. If the coil or the coil wire are weak the spark may well be too weak to jump gaps. Where are you testing the spark at?

That would be the carburetor preheater. This all sounds correct except "black plastic dryer vent hose". Dryer vent hose would be 4", and not likely plastic. I cant see many types plastics lasting long down at the exhaust pipe. Odds are, only the connection at the air cleaner is black rubber, or the hose its self is actually a thin metal with a black coating. IMO, living in Alaska, you need to keep this setup and get it working if its not.

Great place to start is a fuse check, then check the fusible links by battery, followed by the ignition relay. Another thought is the ign switch or its wiring.

Thank you for noticing, my skills are pretty rusty. Its been years since Ive been in the biz. I think the work gets the ideas across to you guys. Software used: Inksacpe and Adobe Image Ready. Files compressed as gif or jpeg formats.

I mentioned Ide cover the thermo vacuum valves, so here we go. The first one (Thermo Vacuum Valve II) is the black 2 port thermo valve near the distributor. The top port on the valve is to the air cleaner, the bottom is to the choke pull off. While the coolant is below 70ish degrees this valve is normally open. From the looks of it, this reduces the strength of the choke pulloff until the car has warmed up sufficiently (and the valve closes). In effect its one stage of the choke/warm-up operation. This is not quite an emissions device, but more a device of cold drive-ability. Ide prefer to have this one working over deleting it. Unfortunately, if it even worked, the top port is often snapped off due to it being over looked during air cleaner removal. If you delete you will have to decide whether you like the port on the pull off open to the air cleaner or plugged. Ide leave its carcass in place, as its the cheapest way to plug the hole it would leave behind. I dont think all calibrations have this one. Specifically the later carbs with the dual pull off setup. -please correct me if wrong. Next one (Thermo Vacuum Valve I) is the white manifold temp switch called "wall temp". Befor I go into my theory of what this does im going to contradict myself by saying, "pretty classic emissions crap". I feel this has little to do with drive-ability. It can go, in fact it isnt even needed to plug a hole. Its likely removal wouldnt interfere with emissions testing either. If what I just said is all you need to hear you neednt bother reading my thoughts on what its intention was. My best guess is their goal with this was to reduce emissions during part choke cold driving conditions. This was an archaic attempt at best. I spent very little time examining this after reading the shy-sty description of its function. It was clear it was silly. If you can wrap your head around these diagrams youd see that when cool, but I guess not cold the vac advance function is partially reduced. Its temporarily vented and controlled by the EGRs vacuum system. Genius/pointless. Cant say how many carbon toe nails this really trimmed and Im sure they didnt do this because they wanted too. One thing that has caught my eye in the diagram is the EGR setup. I looked in my hoses after removing them and was unable to locate the pictured orifice. I have the EGR plumed directly to a ported source on the carb. Will I end up with a drive-ability issue from incorrect EGR function? I havent noticed any, guess Ill keep the stereo volume down and pay attention for the next couple drives. To truly delete this device I personally feel one should remove the steel lines under the manifold as well. The best way to remove these lines is when changing intake manifold gaskets or whenever you plan to have the manifold off. I did these right after buying the car and I thought I may try to restore the emissions system. So basically I left it to be removed later. Dont bother trying to yank this out in one piece. Theres 3 bolts that hold the mess in, one of which is on the bottom of the manifold near the EGR. A real pain to get too! It only has the EGR line attached to it so I elected to cut it at the bolt under the front of the carb. I left the single steel line to feed the EGR valve. Look at the pic you can see the saw blade starting its cut. If you choose to do the same you must cover the carb, disconnect the rubber hose from the EGR, and blow the line out. It will be full of metal shavings. Your goal is to end up with something like this. Ill cover the evap routing next I suppose

Thanks for the feedback! This is not my thread, its our thread. Just because I started it does not mean others cannot add too it. Admittedly 4 out of 6 EA81s ive owned were factory feedback. I live near CA so most of the cars Ive seen would be CA emissions. My new hatch is not. I will repeat that I have never seen a car with these ports plugged. And I will add that my feeling the car runs better with these ports unplugged could be placebo affect. Does anyone know if there is a factory calibration with the air passage ports plugged? One thing I didnt mention in my post is the 4th (air passage?) port that some of the later carbs had. It was furthest to the rear of the carb and sometimes was pointed towards the passenger side. One of my feedback cars had it, but plugged. I do not know what this was for, and since the car Im using for this Info is not equipped with it I cannot add anything about it. IIRC reading that it was a high altitude calibration feature? If someone knows I feel it needs to be In this thread. Ferox - YOU need to post the link to your delete in this thread. Im going to try to post about the thermo switches this weekend.

The 2 rounds lingered on on the std hatch till at least 85. That grill wasnt as attractive as the older style one tho.

These u-joints are specific too nissans and subarus of the era.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/154295-just-plug-it-taking-some-of-the-mystery-out-of-your-hitachi/