ihscout54

The specs are probably incorrect. Some listings show 50-70psi some say 1.5-3

Sure looks like the right pump to me. http://www.amazon.com/Airtex-E8059-Electric-Fuel-Pump/dp/B000ZN2CEY

Too much ground is not the issue, theres a short that you have isolated by removing its ground. Run a new ground to the switch and fan.. Forget the toggle switch and the crummy old factory wiring and use a relay with new wires as I have already mentioned. Yes its a project but it works much better. You can even use a universal adjustable fan switch if you want to go that far. Ive done this on 3 of my ea81s. The first time that fan fails to come on, or it gets at all flakey i rewire with a relay/s

I wouldnt strip any of the door sensor wiring till you see if you want to try a dl dash. I bet the "warning center" harness may plug right in. On the DL dash its big and in place of a tach, its a cool feature why not keep it. That cluster might be pretty slick in the middle of the dash. Only challenges coming to mind are swapping the sender to a switch for the oil light and possibly moving the speedo cable over. If you had an ecm it would be under the steering column.

Give this a look http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/153337-ea-81-instrument-cluster-for-sale/ If you have a funtioning ecm you are feedback. Since your build is pretty radical and your thinking turbo maybe that system will be coming out (if you have it). How strict are your emissions inspections?

Do all the gauges work? Their not real accurate but the fuel gage and speedo might be tricky to find good aftermarket replacements. The only gauge Ive had problems with on these is the oil pressure. What about getting a DL dash its smaller as it uses lights for oil and temp and has no tach. There was one for sale in the parts section here. Ide try my darndest to use a factory cluster. You mention an ecm, are u turbo or feedback? If your feedback, loose this setup. Going non feedback is way more important than stripping a dash.

Im sure its been done. If your looking at a turbo/mpfi swap to spfi there will definately be harness differences just the injector wiring is one obvious difference. I cant see the exhaust being the same. Did the 86 ea82t use a flapper MAF? Another difference there. I really have nothing of value to add to your thread other than using a carbed ea82 would make things pretty easy. Of course, thats if you can find one. Or if your like me and cant stand driving a carbureted car.

Tom your thinking carbed? Hes missing the connector which is the root of this whole problem. The disty with the clip on cap is one of the earlier ones ive warned you about. It will work but youll have to play with the wiring some more as it wont match the info you already have.been given. I used a later model disty on an older model f,i. And had to swap wires as i mentioned already.

Sounds like there has been some mods done to this system. I have no idea if your cars fan system is like the EA81s, but if it is the fan switch closes the ground for the fan. The fan probably always has 12v going to it from that fuse that keeps blowing. Might make sure its hooked up correct. Since this is such an important device Ide just rewire the circuit. Give the fan/fans their own dedicated cuircuit take the + right off the battery and the ground from somehwere beefy. Use relays and have the thermoswitch control the ground to the relays.

I belive the tubo and mpfi boots are "unlabled" so sounds like SPFI. Been years since ive seen anything but carb or spfi so I might be wrong. Proceed as planned.

The throttle body may look a little like a carb. Does it have a boot that leads too an airfilter or does it have an air cleaner like an old carb would? Since this is a hack job already u need to know this. For all we know this is someones attempt at a major mod. This will totally change what needs to be done.

Ebay. Rock auto etc. be careful 86 & 87 are different. is this car SPFI (tbi)?

for fun this is pure guess work. GB = power supply = R GY = ref sign = W or G BW = pos sign =G or W B = ground = B

Per FSM, all of these wires go to the ECM GB = power supply GY = ref sign BW = pos sign B = ground So the connector is missing? there should be a 4 pin plug for the harness and the disty. Theres only 2 reasons why I can see that happening: rodents, or they are attempting to use an older style distributor. Of corse the wires would change colors on the distributor side and my manual does not show whats supposed to be on the distributor side. To further muddy things up the 86 had a different connector and 87 has the green and white wires orentation swapped from the later models (IIRC). Someone will have to go look at their car for you as my f.i. system is an 87 and not the same colors as yours. The other option is to head off to the junk yard and get a disty with some extra harness and the connector.

There is a visual inspection befor the sniffer gets slipped in. They are looking at like gas cap condition, complete/correct underhood systems, vacuum routing, CEL function etc. They dont turn screws, so fooling them by using a factory air cleaner and leaving all doodads intact will allow it too pass their quick once over. They probably have software with generic specs and vacuum diagrams that tell them what to look for. It will depend on the inspector, how busy he is or how much he cares. Perhaps how strict his regulations are. Since I havent had to pass one in 10 years, my advice may be obsolete.

Correct, the larger gauge sender screws in to the bottom of the oil pump. Ive only seen them with one wire.

Passing the visual part of the inspection is the problem. If its dialed in right you should pass the sniffer portion of the test. If owners in Cali are doing it you can too.

The ignition switch itself is seperate from the tumbler and is attatched too it on the other side of the column. Did you use a new sender for cars equiped with a gauge? Its larger than the small switch for cars with a light. What you describe ssounds a little like you might be using a switch for cars with an oil light. If the wire feeding the gauge has grounded out for some time it has likely ruined the gauge. When you turn the key on engine off that gauge should not move. If it is (and u are using the correct sender) its getting ground from somewhere it shouldnt be. Unhook the wire and pull it out away from the engine and turn the key on. If the problem is still there then its the gauge or a problem deeper in the harness.

I did not get a pm from you. The "brumby" does have some wiring differences from the US brat. I have a diagram for 1983 us models

Jono brings another good thought to the table... I thought the origional reason manufactured installed hot coils and used big gaps was for emissions reasons. Or just too fire those lean mixtures on low compression engines. Definitely not whats going on here. With forced induction or high compression youll just run into problems with big gaps. But is .043 that big? Is 9.5:1 compression that high? Will he notice anything with the regap? Im thinking "not really". Hell have to keep us posted

Pm me and i will email you the copy I have. Its the same one most of us have with the missing pages. Are you building an off-roader and have the interior appart? Do you have a short or something? Stripping a harness is alot of work. Especially behind the dash. Heat shrink is cheap cap em off.

I bet the gap specs hes using is for a points system. I didnt notice any evidence of being blown in the posted pic. If he is then he should ignore our gapping advice.

Killer post NARU! These Hitachi modules were used on other cars not, just our Subarus. Cant say they are all the same, but ive seen them on other cars. No idea what the coil values were. I also thought stock spec for these coils was like .9-1.29 or something. Just because Subaru used these coils doesnt mean the module couldnt handle switching more juice. Two of my cars had well run old flame thrower XL 1000 PRO gizmo coils attached to this system and they ran fine. Of corse Ive never checked the resistance on them either as I always dump these distributors for F.I. or a Nippon. The 4 Ive had all had excessive rotor shaft play and are now in a box burred in the shed .

Agreed bratman. His choice is fine, though I wanted to mention just using good old cheapy copper plugs. I did not since I hate starting arguements over things like plugs, filters and oil...

Im not real sure about what you boys have down there, but it looks like you have the Hitachi with the module under the cap? I kinda think this thing might be a sorta copy of the HEI. This is probably the strongest of the units Subaru used for our cars. The resistance values on that coil will likely be lower than the stock unit. So in theory you are pushing it. I bet youde be fine if the values on the coil arent too much lower. IMO stock ignition on these is more than adequate for what you need. Ide gap them at .043-.045. They arent real hard to change if you dont like the results. Solid state devices dont exactly get damaged or wear out. They usually just die or burn out. Ive never seen one of these types go bad. As I said, the stock setup is pretty decent, so most of us would see little benefit from this. BUT your setup is not like what most of us are running. It will be an experiment.