ihscout54

Do you know if your car is a feedback model? (Does it have an o2 sensor) With what you describe, its probably a vacuum leak. Listen for hissing hoses that have slipped off or cracked. Theres 2 common leak points coming to mind: the one for the stove pipe control, and one thats teed from the purge line to some sort of idle compensator on the air cleaner. They are often dislodged when the air cleaner is removed. The manifold vacuum ports are on the passenger side theres also one large one for the brake booster on the driver side. Follow the lines coming from these. Might as well check the plug wires make sure none are cracked or popped loos. If all checks out then the intake manifold gaskets need looked at. You will know they are bad if they look like melted tar oozing down the top of the head.

Make it like a baja with a small bed and a crew cab. It will be much easier and cooler IMO. There is a thread on here about hatch brats and wagon brats.

What did the shafts run?

5/8 is more likely for the EA81 2wd hatch n coupe or something like that. Ive always replaced my EA81 cyls with 11/16 units which are probably the smaller ones for the 2wd ea82 cars.

The bore size should be stamped on the wheel cylinder usually on the top of it. You will have to pull the drum and clean it up too see. Just a guess here but since your car is a 4wd wagon and auto (heaviest of the lineup) it would likely take the larger available size. I think thats 3/4. I go through this drama every time I change a wheel cylinder. I always replace them in pairs. Plan on marinating them in PB and if possible have a good flare nut wrench, otherwise you will be making brake lines too.

Might want to check on the jetting and resurch befor you buy. Often carbs dont work as a bolt on and go mod. As you probably know jetting will vary according to engine condition and altitude. I seem to recall only needing to change the idle jet on mine. There are tons of posts with pics on the weber install. Once installed you will be pleased wirh the results.

Yea and its mentioned in my previous post. They are getting hard to find tho.

Rockautos part catalog shows these adjusters were used on 2wd ea82 cars until 1990.

Tom knows his brakes on these cars! They are a little archaic, but certainly not life altering. Ive debated this swap befor, due to the cost of a drum or 2 and the junk yard only having ea82 cars, in stock. Still ended up cheaper just to order a set of pads and a drum. Probably not worth the hassel to swap them over unless you have a setup handy or come across a set of ea82 rear disks. The parts for the EA81 drums are still available and they are very easy to service (due to the lack of a self adjustment system). Of corse you do have to adjust them from time to time. Its not every week and even if it was its a pretty simple task. Answer to your question: my guess is Subaru stopped importing EA81 cars to the states in 1989 perhapse thats when these stopped being produced for our market.

Many parts boxed by beck arnley and likely others are just lot buy out NOS subaru stuff. Seals. mounts and ball joints from B/A are usually in a genuine subaru bag inside the box. Another item that makes the list imo is intake manifold gaskets. On the ea81s the aftermarket ones suck.

In the last post, Gloyale has some diagrams: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/151329-3rd-eye-relaytimer/

Are you asking about Are you asking about a fan switch for your brat? This is a totally seperate issue and not likely related to this thread. Is /was the car equiped with a/c and dual fans? To bypess the switch on the radiator youll need to supply a new method of grounding for the fans. Be it a relay and switch, or just a heavy gauge wire run to the cabin and a 20 amp switch to ground. Flip on the switch after warm up. If your having trouble finding the switch there are other options. Ive found some aftermarket switches are normally closed or just stuck closed out of the box. Many other switches could likely fit the hole but finding the right temp, correct thread and similar connector would take alot of research. Something like this would work ide still use a relay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hayden-3653-Cooling-Fan-Control-/281481802148?hash=item41899f71a4&vxp=mtr And this is very similare to factory with correct threads but the temp is low (stock is like 205 degrees turn on) http://www.ebay.com/itm/181495142283?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

No wars, my post is 100% opinion based due to my personal experiances and my current situation. I have not been as lucky as turbobrat, IIRC he is the weber swap guru here and posts info and pics on the subject regularly. I dont do alot of webers. The few "rebuildable" cores Ive gotten off ebay (motorcraft 2150s) were a joke. Throttle shaft surfaces toast jets stripped or missing, and stripped screws. Granted they were like 10 bux shipped. If the O.P. Wants to get his car on the road then buying new will save alot of time and energy. My life has changed alot with a young child, plus a daughter (my wife), full time job and side jobs. I have a different view on things now. My time is so limited and I have a million projects. Saving 120 bux by scanning and bidding on ebay just to have to do the same scanning and bidding for a rebuild kit is almost a waist. "Oh I need different jets and oh wait the adaptor I just got in the mail (ive been waiting 2 weeks for) is for an EA82".... Ive spent alot of time trying to find a way around the hitachi carbs on these cars and only 2 things have actually worked. SPFI swap and a new webber kit. Of corse every ones situation is different, the O.P. might be short on cash and have lots of time.

rump roast, haha had to try it. I was totally wondering why everyone here was so lame! Now I know. Ive rebuilt a couple hitachis, Now I have a rule: if the car runs good I keep it, if it doesnt I throw the hitachi away and go SPFI. Check your throttle shafts for play if you have any its garbage. The weber is better in some ways and for the cost of a rebuilt hitachi its a much better value. Buy the kit and dont waiste your time with the holley 52XX or any used crap on Ebay. Trus me. Even pro rebuilt carbs are often nothing but problems. Doesnt USMB have weber kits for sale? No matter they are widely available.

Btw it looks like there is some factory and or speaker stuff jumbled in there. I cant tell if these just dead end and are capped in any way. I guess its as they say "carpet hides alot of sins"

Classic old alarm crap. As stated theres a "valet switch" in the glove box. They must have had the control box under the pass seat. The wires are triggers for the horn, lights, and probably a sensor and antenna. Theres alot there which makes me think keyless if you have power locks. I agree it should go. Is the wire to the fuse installed with a tap or is it just stuffed in there? This is/was a pretty semi pro install at best.

Your car is non feedback, it won't have a bulb for the ecs light, hence you will never see it come on. The canister has nothing to do with the light, there is no control or test method in the evap system that could set any light. Not a whole lot to go wrong with them anyways. Thats why I always keep them especially with the stock hitachi system.

If your talking about the purge/evap canister it can go away, but Ide keep it. It will have no bearing on a properly fuctioning system. It does have a few lines going to it, creating clutter but only one of them can truly be removed by using a different fuel filter. You should keep the hoses for the bowl vent, tank vent, purge line and tuned purge control. Recent thread for fun. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/152659-weber-conversions-what-are-people-using-as-a-filter-for-their-fuel-tank-vent-line/?hl=%2Bford+%2Bfuel+%2Bfilter&do=findComment&comment=1278536

Its been a few years but Ive painted several. Your gunna mix and spray, right? I far prefer the Hvlp gravity fed guns over the bottom feeders. An inline desiccant dryier filter is required. Obviously the car must be clean, sanded and primed if needed. I always sand the entire vehicle. Not bare metal, but just to degloss and even out. Body fillers are easy too use but add another time consuming step. Youll have to make the call on that one. Hand sand. Use a quality sand paper in the 150 grit maybe 200 range. Even if you decide to wet sand put on a N95 dustmask and gloves. When I mask I use the cheap thin tape med - high adheision. Forget the blue or green stuff its too thick and doesnt like the contours of a car or the sun beaming down on it. When you use the cheap stuff, though, you do have to be able to remove it in a couple days. Trust me IT MUST be removed in a day or two. I like the 2 or 3 inch tape and newspaper for big areas. Its ok if your sloppy dont bother trying to get it perfect. Instead overlap the areas to be painted a bit and come back with a hobby knife and trim the excess. Big trash bags are nice for tires. I also cut them to make a giant sheet to tape off areas your not focusing on. Right befor Spray-time I recheck and run some fingers over all the tape to make sure everything is still good. If you are spraying outside you will need a windless, warm, dry day and a dust mask (at the least). There are major benefits to doing this in the garage but Ive tried it and really prefur a shady spot in front of the garage door. Check the forecast, masking tape doesnt like rain, and once the paint is mixed it needs to go on the car or in the trash. Its not cheap. Im not a pro, and the last couple I painted were large (suburban). I focused on one panel at a time, like just one fender or the front door. I taped and "platic bagged" the adjacent areas that way I could start and stop on masking material. This is not real efficient but it works awesome. The hood and top are a little annoying but on a tiny justy shouldnt be too bad. You might still need a step ladder fot the top. If you have never used a sprayer, You will have to practice an a piece of plywood or cardboard, it wont take long to figure it out. Since your not going for perfection this wont take too long. Even if you end up some texture and a run or 2 its still going to look great. Hopefully this essay of broken sentences and poor punctuation gives you a little inspiration. Good luck and take pics.

So you have an automatic and atf is leaking into the the final drive portion of the transaxle? Is it cracked? Worn shaft? We need details

15% were unsure of what a brat was.10% favored a Dodge Rampage The final 3% Had no idea Subaru existed.

I have/had these things as well till the results of the survey were made public. Remove the jumpseats of death install the tire in its new location. Your wife neednt know I doubt the new oversize tire will fit nicely in the rearmost location behind the wheel wells.

In a recent study conducted by UCLA, 72% of single American females prefer a spare tire in the bed of a BRAT. You simply cant argue with data like that.

"All they way CCW" as in the distrubutor is turned counterclockwise as far as possible? Sounds too me like your off a tooth on your distributor install. Confirm with a timing light or by finding tdc. You could also simply restab the distributor. Mark the distributor body with a sharpie to indicate where the rotor is currently pointing. Pull disty and reinstall with the rotor in the next allowable tooth "clockwise". Then retime.

Those funible links arent real amazing. They can easilly be reproduced with correct lenths of fusible link wire and a couple of the big female spade terminals. iIRC the fusible wire is just a specific gauge wire that is not supposed to create a fire when it metls.