ihscout54

pretty sure the '88 ECM is not compatible with the '86 harness and components.

I wouldnt worry about carfax at that age. My title reads odometer beyond mech limits, and salveage due to a crumpled fender. I had to get a salvage title to recive my check from the insurance company of the gentman who backed into the brat. It was literaly a crunced fender and a dent in the door. Of course that simple repair would have cost more than the car was worth. Or so they said. You could try to use it as negotiation leverage. What are they asking? How does it drive?

Good thinking Jmoss. If he feels its needed many things will work as a leak detector carb cleaner spray, teaspoons of oil, atf or even a lil water (as an eco freindly option).

Pipes are available online listed as a catalytic converter. The ea82 pipes fit (with slight mods) and can be had on ebay for under $130 the ea81s are around $160+. Quality is so so and cheapos wont have the heat sheild except around the cat. They work tho. Keep your window cracked I imagine ull be fine. Or should I say; been there done that, just smoke one less cigarette.

SPFI? If its been out of service for three years condition of the fuel, gummed up injectors, and corroded grounds need inspected. Is this issue what has been keeping the car from being driven? If the car is SPFI what are you doing to raise the idle? If you dont already have this heres a link to an fsm. You need this! http://jdfinley.com/downloads/SubaruEA82-ServiceManualPart2.pdf As stated above check the condition of the grounds (especially the one by the tstat housing). do you have a digital ohm meter? Vacuum or Intake manifold leaks you should inspect the boot clamps and hose to the IAC valve as well. Fuel pressure, do you have access to a gauge? With your symptoms this is must check. Pull the cap on the disty and take a look inside, see if its corroded and gross (not just the cap and rotor). While there. check for play in the rotor and shaft.

Per fsm these tubes are NOT reusable. Unfortunately they arent readily available

Edit: Or Tom There are no ea81s at the local yard at this time. Im debating if I should order the above pictured part and install it. I really want to get the engine in but this job looks less frustrating with the engine out. My hill holder is not leaking its just unused, plus I recently replaced the master and bled the brakes. Wish I had more free time...

The ea81s have a tee fitting for the drv rear and pass front. And the hh serves as the tee for the drv front and pass rear. Or something nutty like that. The auto and non hh ea81 cars have a 4 way junction and I kinda think the master cyl is different as the brakes look to be split front and rear. Gloyale can you confirm that the fittings are m10x1 inverted flare? Befor he/we place an order wed like a confirmation.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brake-Line-Pipe-Brass-T-3-way-Female-Fitting-Connector-Splitter-M-10-x-1-Metric-/261549106336 This looks like a gem as well. Its also conveniently located in Latvia. These are surprisingly hard to find. Hence why I mentioned cutting and flaring.

Unless im missing something the "seal" is created by the mating surface compressed against the flared tube inside the fitting. I imagine this part may take inverted or single flare. Edit Sorry Jez, i get what ur saying.... This site claims the above mentioned part accepts inverted flare http://www.brakeconnect.com/product/3-way-tube-tee-m10-x-1-10mm-mount-hole

"dr sam beckett stepped into the quantum leap excellerator and vanished" Hopefully his next leap will be the one that keeps me from selling all of my EA81 crap I've sold for so cheap. Ive never paid more than 500 for any of my cars, and never sold any of them for more than 1000. Im shocked at some of the "deals" offered in the for sale section on this board. At work theres a group of trades dorks that are all buying old collector cars. Its the in thing with these pre-retirees. One of them has an 81 vette that cost him 10k, another just bought a Vanagon for like 12k. Oddly enough my brat makes them laugh. Anything old and unique is now a collector car to someone. I didnt give up on Scouts and IHs because of gas prices, it was the wacky skyrocketing values that ruined them for me. At least those were a little less dispose-ably built and parts availability sorta exists. Perhapse its time I give up on the EA81 cars as well. Ide like to make someone the deal of a lifetime. My 82 brat for $6700 with free shipping in the continental US.

Only if someone is silly enough to pay that. At this moment alot of people are hearing stories of these incredible sales on eBay. Asking prices are going up and up. The saddest part of this situation is some of these things are selling at asking price.

I have contemplated removel of this thing many times. Its simply is low on my priority list so it hasnt happened and I cannot tell you the correct thread sizes. If they are m10x1 flare perhaps something like this will work http://www.brakequipproducts.com/product/brakequip-bq91a-3-way-tube-tee-m10-x-1-10mm-mount-hole A few years ago I deleted a KH abs module that was causing greif on a GM. From memory I think it had 3/16 lines with some goofy 10mm bubble flare fittings. I didnt even bother messing with any of that. The fittings were cut off 3/8 fittings installed and lines flared. This allowed for an off the shelf tee to be used and eliminated the search for an oddball tee. Dont know if you have any "shelves" down there so perhapse just ordering the right fitting is easiest.

Whats wrong with it? Is it shifting issues or is it a final drive failure? These are often swapped out so a member my likely help out. Not long ago there were a couple on ebay.

"is it possible the Y pipe is not correct and is off another model Subie? " I actually went through a bunch of bs with these once due to a missing asv spacer i didnt know it right away until doing several gasket replacements. Since ive seen them with none, one or both spacers i didnt think anything of it. In the end it was totally solved by extending a pipe and using gaskets purchaced from car quest for another vehicle. Iirc it was something wacky like a ford 223 or amc 232. They were a thin metal outer with an asbestosy oreo filling. Im following this thread with interest davet always has a solution.

The price to be paid for rust free. Good luck on the vent louvers. My garage kept brat is the only set ive ever seen that arent rotten. But im in Arizona so perhaps elsewhere this is not such an issue. Visors are tough to find too but ive found them or u could modify or create your own. Vents as far as I know only come from ea81 cars: 80-89 hatch, 80ish-84 sedan wagon coupe, 82-87 brat.

Strip all of it out of there and engineer a new vacuum system. Ide remove the steel vac lines as well since you likely wont use them. While your there ide also plug the asv lines at the header and remove the unused portions of the metal tubes. I would keep the egr and purge system just to be trendy. All you really need is the fuel lines, brake booseter hose, vacuum adv line (if it works), line to the cabin (if applicable), pcv system plumbing, and auto tranny modulator line (looks like it doesnt apply). Does your a/c work? If not fix it or dump it too. Its alot of extra crap and clutter. If you do fix it you will want to use the idle up system so save those components.

How much are you willing too pay? http://www.subarupartsdepot.com/parts/1984/SUBARU/Brat/GL%20Turbo/?siteid=215079&vehicleid=45525&section=ELECTRICAL&group=CHASSIS%20ELECTRICAL&subgroup=SWITCHES&component=TURN%20SIGNAL%20SWITCH When you search car part.com its under column switch there are many too choose from under 50 bux.

You can scour the web looking for this part. Odds are good some form of purge valve or gizmo could be used off another vehicle. Is it worth it? Im sorry my last post was poorly composed i often whip these out on my phone while taking breaks from working on my car. To answer your origional question: you are going to have too do some work. There are several calibrations/configurations of thses systems per model year. Im not going to spend 40 mins looking through my service manuals to find out when the ports the valve controls should be open. Its not worth it. Some calibrations actually had them open all the time... Remove the valve and plug the manifold vac line. Route the origional lines with the restriction orifices intact from the carb ports to the air cleaner. Drive the car. (for the day not just around the block) Now remove the installed hoses and plug the ports on the carb. Drive the car same as above, and decide which way runs better. The hitachi was designed with these ports for a reason. I agree with the previous poster and I've told you befor "its time to thin out your emissions system". But I loosely consider the component in question an emission component. Befor it can be deleted the above experiment should be performed. Im unsure if this is some sort of overtemp prevention method or a cold driveability improvement system.

Partsgeek is bad news. What car are you working on? Try www.car-part.com ive had good luck on used stuff there when Im in a pinch. An item like that is quickly becoming a junkyard part.

Naru is it high temps or operating temps? I do not know. If it is then essentially having the valve unhooked is just plugging them. If this critter is the one im thinking of its kinda a fuel system/metering component. The actuation hose comes from the thermo valve and manifold vac port. The others are loopdy loos with orifices in them that in theory go from the carb to the air cleaner In my attempts to remove feedback systems i recall messing with one these to replace the feedback control solenoids. After replacing the carb with a non feedback and removing the crap I think I ended up just running these ports straight to the air cleaner (with the orifice intact), or plugging them. i cant remeber which way was better because none of it was great. In the end the car was SPFI converted and that part of my life has just become a fuzzy memory.

Ive spent many hours fighting these Hitachis. If you get one that runs good leave it alone. If you start having problems get rid of it. The bummer is there isnt alot of options for carbs and the SPFI systems are becoming scarce. Considering the cost of a weber kit ide prefur FI. This system was like many common too the era, overly complex and a little hard to sort out. I dont know how strict your visual inspections are there but much of the system could be thinned out with the Hitachi left in place.

This is soo true, Ive had one brat and 5 parts cars, which of course i couldnt bring myself to part out so I repared and sold them. Once you own an oddball you kinda have to become a hoarder. Finding and buying crap for your oddball on craigslist is actually the greatest cost of ownership! Go ahead buy a brat youll see.

I thought the link i posted above has pictures of them in it a few posts down. Via tomrhere The 5 speed has a lower 5th than the the later 4 speeds 4th. So if one is looking for better highway cruiser this wont be the answer (depending on the trans). Better break up of the ratios, maybe availability. and reliability of them is the reasoning behind the swap.

Im sorry, let me try again. I have no idea what registration and insurance costs there and I am youngish still I suppose so for me insurance has been the largest (guaranteed) cost of any vehicle. Obviously a blown engine will cost more than one years worth of insurance, but at 1k miles per year will the engine ever fail? No matter what you will have to pay to insure it if you want to drive it once per week. Definitely 2nd gen cars are much easier to find parts for. Ive always avoided 1st gens for that reason. We are currently going through a bit of a collector car bubble right now. Internet activity and the current aging generation have pushed prices up on all unique cars. When you see Bronco IIs and Loyales going for 5k you start to wonder. Its good becuase its bringing a different class of owner together with these cars which will help save the few that are left. Might help with parts availability too.