ihscout54

Your largest annual cost with adding any vehicle to your fleet is insurance. Any old car will be a money pit especially if your picky. Parts availability for the 2nd gen cars isnt great and getting worse every day. All of my manual 4 speed cars had to have the trans pulled for a clutch or to replace the tranny. Its the one real common issue I lve had. Intake manifold gasket leaks and worn Hitachi distributor bushings make the list too. Another issue that comes to mind is that alot of available aftermarket parts are not the highest quality. Cheapo clutches/cables and intake manifold gaskets have bit me several times.

I missed the part where turbo was mentioned. I automatically thought SPFI. I guess being an 86 gl-10 means turbo.

Gloyale has answered this question, Im not sure if the o.p. was looking for troubleshooting assistance or not. Sounds like he doesnt have much run time on it. Have u driven the car? I dont belive the adjustment screw can allow for that much adjustment. Warm up the car and unplug the harness to the IAC if the idle drops to spec then your problem is with the control part of the system. Faulty CTS the IAC itself etc. if the idle ramains high could still be the IAC, vac leak/s or something as simple as the throttle not returning. If you havent set any codes yet, you will.

Yes your looking for a 3.7 rear. Your in luck being in the PNW (where alot of members are located) and needing a diff that was commonly swapped out on the older cars during a manual conversion. Post in the wanted adds or hit the scrap yards. Turbo rx cars and ea81s with the auto trans... Both of which are getting hard to find, i know theres a memeber or 2 up there that swapped out an auto and still have one of these sitting in the shed. Oh I Forgot, car-part.com is an option too if your not having any luck and in dire need.

Heres a handy pic thats on my phone of a 4 speed s/r i recently yanked. Its looks very long and slender compared to the 5 speed. Thats a 3at next to it sorry its what i have. Obviously the push button will be a single range with a non mechanical linkage.

This has been covered soo many times befor if you do a search you will find everything you need to know. Heres one thread that I got with a 5 second search, there is alot more out there. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/65366-complete-recipe-ea81-auto-manual/ I am going to tell you if theres nothing wrong with your trans then this is alot of work that will keep you from driving your car.

If there is a clear pic of the tranny especially from the side there should be no issues telling the 4 speed from the 5. Check out this thread, tom has a post with a pic that may be of use too you. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/141404-rays-brat/ I would avoid buying this over the net unless its from a member who can tell you how it ran, you wanna know for sure what car it came out of too (things like spline counts and ratios are of concern). Plus your going to want other items to go with the trans which means the jyard. I do totally understanf how hard these things are getting to find especially in Vegas. I honestly thought when I moved there would only be 3 brats left in clark county! I never did the swap because I could never find a tranny with low enough miles that I was willing to pay for.

Replacement canisters are available but they are kinda pricey. Your not likely to find a universal canister option. You could go to the jy and buy a canister off a late model wreck with a non integral solenoid. Hook it up and use a separate vacuume operated purge valve, 80s ford comes to mind. Simplest option is to leave the line open, if you feel the need install a cheapo clear plastic universal fuel filter and keep the filter high in the engine bay. On the ea81 cars there are provisions to prevent raw fuel from entering the canister. You may have occasional odors from this. Next option plug the line and drill a small hole in the gas cap.

Im guessing your car is SPFI. Make sure youre throttle is returning fully (frayed cable worn return spring etc) Your idle issues are reminiscent of a flaky tps idle switch, or adjustment. Sounds like youve checked for vac leaks have you checked the intake manifold gaskets and tbi base gaskets with some carb cleaner? You can isolate things like the brake booster and pcv by pinching their hoses politely with some needle nose pliers. The intake boot must be tight and leak free as well. Even small leaks will throw off the MAF. IAC would be next on the list Not clear as to weather or not you tried this, but an easy test for your compressor clutch/cycling switch: jump the switch. But dont do it for long as your possibly low on charge. Im not sure how you added charge. If your not getting voltage at the switch and the fuse is good then the wiring switch or relay will need checked. Sorry Im not familiar with the loyals A/C setup and cant offer any specifics.

Are you asking about a purge canister delete? Why bother "T" in a fitting to the tuned line to the disty vac adv for the purge control valve. Then simply hook the purge line to a manifold vac source. In other words keep the canister, its free.

On the lower front corner of the tank on the passenger side there is 2 barbs one is 5/16ish and the other is 1/8ish the bigger one is the supply smaller is the return.

Many things come to mind like a broken timing belt. That should cause odd cranking behavior. How did he notice a puff of smoke, I'm assuming from the tail pipe? Since hes on the side of the road and likely tooless lets start easy with a fuse check, especially for the fuel pump and ign circuits. When he cranks can he hear the fuel pump? If not, then the fuel pump, fuse, relay, fuseable link or fuel pump itself are on the list as well as the wiring in the circuit. He needs to check the emissions hoses and lines for a giant leak, like an open pcv line.

There were no 5 speed 4wds made for the 1981 model year. Either the trans is not actually a 1981, or its not a 4wd 5 speed. If you find out its a 4 speed and you still need to buy it, check the starter make sure its off to drvr the side and not in the center (for early ea71). If it is of concern to you might wanna verify it is a d/r as well.

Dave something has occured to me. Ive been working on an engine with a slight ammount of thrust play. I guess you couldnt check easily for this now, but say your mains were worn in this way and causing the crank and thus the converter to move fore and aft and slam the shaft into the pump? Also ill have to check the parts break down but there is some sort of bushings or bearings for the shafts. They are so long there has to be. Inpust shaft play could mess this all up.

Those lights are the right ones for your '80. There is a section on the board for junkyard sightings. Since ur in buckeye the broadway rd junkyard "strip" is much more conviniant.

If it has sat for ten years its gunna smoke. Ive let a few sit and they all smoke, sometimes it goes away... Sometimes it doesnt. Since uve put 180 plus miles on it and its still smoking, thats not a good sign. Other fluids can find a way to the combustion chambers. Brake fluid if the master is leaking into the booster. Atf if the modulator has failed could just be an intake gasket. You get the idea. Its prolly a 3AT automatic. They arent incredible but i certainly wouldnt scrap a car over one. Ive gad better luck with them than the ea81 4 speeds. Find out whats making the smoke and then you can easily decide its fate.

80-84 wagon sedan, and coupe 82-87 brat 80-89 hatchback (3 door) The wagon and sedan have the same length doors, the brat coupe and hatch are longer. You may also have to contend with the antenna hole. I believe 80-82 have the antenna on the drvr side and 83 and up are on the pass side. So if you find a later set youll have to deal with some holes or move your antenna. The holes are an odd shape but ive done it befor. In your case you need both, ide just grab the antenna off the newer car. Im not sure where in Phx you are but if your in DV or Anthem it might be easier. funner and cooler to head up north than down to Broadway. Upickit has an 83 wagon in Prescott Valley and theres a couple in Flag. www.upickitaz.com Welcome aboard and congrats.

The device has no influance over performance or actual fuel being metered. So ide say no.

I proposed this option already but his car is being worked on my a professional. If the tech is even willing to do this it may be cost prohibitive. The fact that you succeeded proves its doable. I think the biggest challenge will be modding the kidney bean airfilter to fit the weber. A hacksaw, some rivets and silicone should help make that weber air cleaner base work with the stock unit. Even if its not daily driver quality use it as the emissions passing filter.

Get a jy egr that doesnt have the aav port. If u have no choice the one in the link should be acceptable. The aav doesn't exactly eliminate backfiring. It may reduce deceleration pops but likely not even that. Its purpose is to introduce air during sudden closed throttle high vacuum situations where fuel can become atomized and cause rich deceleration mixtures. Or something like that. Its an emissions device. You dont need it, none of my cars have it. To delete remove the device plug the ports it left behind, change egr valve.

Steves car is kinda low mileage one owner kinda thing. Its possible his was never replaced. But this all started with a blown coolant hose right? I wonder if this was actually a safety recall or just a tsb? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/127522-ea81t-non-water-cooled-turbo-to-water-cooled/

My heart goes out to you guys on this ca emissions crap. An emissions inspection isnt necessarily a bad thing, but why isnt it good enough for the car to pass a simple visual check (like egr hooked up, evap can inplace, and the gas cap is there and not replaced with a rag or something stupid). Then let the sniffer tell the rest of the story. Its more govt bs creating jobs for someone i suppose. Perhapse they do this to ensure your not just adjusting to pass and then readjusting after the test. You likely wont be passing emissions until the driveabilty issue is corrected. If the egr is not the correct unit it may have too large an orifice and act sorta like a leak. If the lack of power doesnt dissapear at wot, or with the egr disconected. Its probably not that. Another thought for your guy is the power enrichment circuit may not be working on your new carb. Im not clear on how it works.

He failed to mention that the lack of the AAV port was his concern. If you look up a valve for a newer carbed car you will find valves with this port. Guess what they are over ten times more expensive. I did not ask you why you wanted to replace it as you were asking where to find a valve. I assumed it was shot, not just plugged. Whats wrong with your old egr valve? If it does just need cleaned brake clean works. Check the manifold the tube to the head and the port in the head. If the valve leaks or the diaphragm no longer holds vacuum, then obviously its time to replace. The AAV is not "required" for your engines operation, and can easily be removed. you can then replace your egr valve with one off a different or newer car that does not have this port. Are you sure the after burn valve works? Its great to try to save this stuff but once you start having problems you realize some of it just cant be saved. Its not cost effective and in some cases just not possible. Since you dont have to pass emissions might be time to consider an emission system redesign.

Not into egr deletes but its an option. Ive read on here the system is poorly balanced. I have no proof of this, delete at your own discression. You gave a part nuber for yours but said you cant find the number? No matter i bet that rockauto egr valve is almost universal and fits 30 different cars. One orifice washer will likely service calibrations AERX9xxx-APY1xxx or something like that. it may not leave you feeling like you choose the right one. No gaurentee it will fit your car but If I really needed one and couldnt find one to put in my pocket at the junkyard id buy that one without thinking twice.