ihscout54

I personally hate the one size fits all egr valves with the orifices u can choose from. Will it work most likely. Will it ping maybe. Will it last... ? Ive had better luck with junkyard units. The one on my 82 brat is off a loyale iirc. Is it the right calibration dunno but ive not had a problem. Im spfi tho. Do u have to pass emissions?

Is your mech a member? Keep in mind "new" parts can cause issues. Is the egr oem? Its been a few years since ive opened one of those hitachi monsters. I cannot speak for the rebuilder you bought from but it looks like they have pretty good prices. I have had horrible experiances with rebuilt carbs in general; bad throttle shaft bush jobs, sripped screws/jets, mismatched jets, wrong parts etc. I cannot recall if the jets can even be mixed up on these carbs. Hence I would be of little help to a 30 yr master tech. Ide imagine a busy tech doesnt have time to try to remember this ancient carb crap. As mentioned sounds like he already covered the basics that came to my mind. I will likely not know the specs which I think hes looking for, like what size jets its supposed to have (another member might).... Would it void the warrenty to open er' up? Is it at all possible for you to make the weber look stock? Like modify the origional air filter? sounds like that might have a better chance of passing. If it can pass the visual. Get your money back have a simpler carb and better driver.

Where did you get this "stock carb from"? The hitachis came in a few different calibrations. Couple of theories for you which should occur to your mech as they are not subaru specific. A float setting issue, wrong main jet, maybe egr valve malfunction. Causing excessively lean condition giving high nox. Its also causing a miss giving high hydro readings. Over advanced timing or too much advance from the advance mechanism. Kinda oppisite direction but might make sure the disty and egr system are hooked up to the right vac ports. Hows the evap system? If its wrong its just a vac leak. Pcv the same. These are gizmos that may have been deleted or unhooked while it was weberized.

Too help you with this we kinda need to know why you are failing. HC, NOx, CO? Or is it failing the visual exam? Did you get a results printout showing why you didnt pass?

So its a 4 door wagon or a 2 door hatchback? No matter congrats on the new toy. As for carb i.d., the hitachi can easily be mistaken for a 1 bbl at quick glance. Its a 2bbl progressive one hole in front and one in back. Look at the side of the carb where the throttle linkage is and make sure theres not 2 throttle shafts, or look hard down the throat to see. Another easy way to tell if its a carter/weber 1bbl is the top air filter mounting stud has a beam across the top supporting the stud. The hitachi has the stud mounted in the throat of the carb. Also the float chamber is in the back on the 1 bbl, and off to the driver side on the 2 bbl. If it is a hitachi 2bbl, the idle mixture screw is In the base of the carb in the front. Theres a small hole above a slightly larger hole. The larger lower hole will have the screw hidden inside. Need a small flat screwdriver, its similar for the 1bbl keep in mind if its a feedback model the access to the mixture screw may be blocked.

What form of "Gl" did you end up with? Honestly, if you are really serious about going for h.p. I wouldnt waiste too much time on the ea81s. They are getting so hard to come by and many of them are just in poor shape. Research ej swap. If you have an o2 sensor and an ecm your car is a feedback model. So some of the mixture control is done electronically. If there is a fault in the system it goes full rich. As for your stumble it could could be too lean an idle adjustment or an accelerator pump issue.

Easy, bearing belt and chain type supplier or ebay 6207-2rsc3\similar (open or sealed). Im almost posetive ea82 is the same bearings as ea81. You obviously need 2 for each side. Search 6207 on this forum and you will have all the answers.

"* My car idles really low, and it will die unless I give it gas." Idle adjustment, vacuum leak/s, retarded timing.... As stated, and are easy places to start. Also could be due to your ecs failure. "* Sometimes, when I press the gas pedal, it will stick. " Potentially unsafe condition. Check for frays and wear in the cable where it exits the cable sheathing behind the carb and gas pedal. Often they are at a bad angle near the carb and the cable is worn into the exit point. "* It backfires at higher rpms when I'm cruising." Float setting, egr issue, timing, vac leaks or the highspeed solenoid is outa wack. "* The ECS light is on." Been so long since ive messed with the feedback crap, but i do remeber if the system is intact when in fault mode it goes full rich. Ill look for the code reading link. Its a little more involved than the spfi ea82s. Honestly trying to salvage a feedback system unless you have no choice is far too much trouble. Trust me ive tried. Do you have 2 feedback solenoids?

The fuel pump on your car shouldnt run with the key on engine off, unless in diag mode. The symptoms you describe could be faults of the CTS MAF CAS fuel pump, fuel tank venting, and ignition sys (or as mentioned a grounding/wiring issue for any of these components)..... You get the idea. Ide open up the FSM and get out the ohm meter.

If its a manual trans it will be fine. Ive towed several ea81 cars on a dolley. My brat a couple of times over 200 miles, i did not drop the drive shaft.

Oh and thank you crazyeights! I had a couple rusting in a bag.

Kinda funny, as im looking in the manual for the head bolt torque spec i see the diagram for for the rocker assembly. Of corse it was different than what I had just done. Just starting to think man im losing it, then i noticed that it was for the ea71. So to further add confusion the ea71 and ea81 share a diagram and they are not the same.

It would have been less confusing to lable front instead of left/right. Its a mistake ide not have made but ITs an easy one to make. There is a defference in assembly on the rocker arms front to back, the alignment could only be off slightly if at all. I wonder if it throws of the pushrods or maybe had more to do with oiling? Theres a reason they labeled them im sure. Im probably gunna pull them replace the missing spring washers and reassemble them on the correct sides. I think the head gasket will survive the 2 bolts being out for 20 mins.

Im sealing up a "low mile" motor ive had sitting for a few years. Its very clean. I now realize its so clean because its been tampered with. The rocker arms are swapped LH an RH. They are on the wrong sides. I also noticed one of them is missing the spring washers. It looks as tho it really doesnt matter which side the rocker arm assembly is bolted. Is there a difference? Ive never mixed them up befor. Also its been ran without the spring washers, is this really a big deal? I do have another rocker arm assy if needed but I dont want to waiste any more time here if I dont have too. This engine seems to have some crank shaft thrust play as well (crank moves a bit from front to back of engine). Ive seen this befor and im not too concerned about it but wondering what the experts say?

I realize the gaskets for the governor housing arent stocked at autozone but I would pull the governor and check the drive gears for signs of excess wear as well.

Shes such a redneck trailer queen she cant afford an elcamino. Did you notice the car is started with a spoon instead of a key? Not long ago a driving brat was something people laughed at. 10-15 years ago they were $300 cars.

Its a camber kit....

Not exactly an answer to your question, but for fun, Im pretty sure Ive seen a write up on using the er27. Theres a prominent member loyale2.7 with a car called "the bumblebeast" i couldnt find the swap info but I thought at one time he had a site or some online material regaurding the swap. Maybe hell chime in.

Good tip (gloyale) on the test connectors. Dont forget to test the relay.

The ecm uses a signal from the CAS (distributor) to trigger the pumps relay. It wont pump unless the engine is spinning. These cars do not have a priming cycle. Without looking at a wiring diagram I cannot tell you for sure if the fuse gets its power from the ign relay or whatever. I do belive It fed from one of the fuseable links direct off the battery. Its not hard to check these.

I have been through this with the aftermarket cables. I stopped replacing them when I installed an extra OEM junkyard cablethat was an emergency spare. That old ugly cable has outlasted 2 new ones. This is one of those parts that the aftermarket stuff just cant be trusted. Theres like 3 ea81s at upickit up there, Ide start there and keep one of the cheapos under your seat as a spare. As for length ur gunna have to measure and find out what fits. The 2wds will be too short, I think the newer 84 up cars are different too. The notes in the parts catalogs say measure 1st. I have several here and I belive mine was 34" I forgot to ask where they are breaking. It might not be a bad idea to inspect the bushings for the pedal.

Are you talking about the switch for the climate control blower? If so you have more testing to do befor you search for a switch.

If it is a cooler line you wont get alot of leaking while the car is off. You will have to check the cooler lines while the car is running with pressure in the system. As mentioned there is a couple solenoids and a modulator that need too be looked at if the cooler lines check out.

Broke an axle or stripped hub.

A good place to start on your idle issue is a simple check of the idle speed and mixture adjustments. Are you saying it simply wont idle at all or it dies after you use the throttle instead of idling? I cant say ive ever looked in an owners manual from 1980 but i can say the 82-84's ive owned called for straight 40 over 90*f. And 20w-50 or straight 30 from 90 down to 30* or something like that. Living in the south west ive pretty much always run 20w-50, tried 40 and 10w-40 and never noticed any difference at all on the gauge or in cold starts.