ihscout54

Well they are just big oil pumps. The innards are tight, and it wouldnt take much the stop them up. That shaft looks professionally lathed and polished. I dont beilive that happened instantly, i was expecting a shearing or splitting. Could it just be a clearance issue with the shaft itself? The shaft is nearing 2' long right? Perhaps that thing has been wallering around back there for the last 10k, and the final 1/16th of an inch of spline failed. I am glad your back on the road. This has been alot of work.

Did you try to slip the shafts out? Are you still also contending with epic snow? Is the forecast calling for cloudy with a chance of total devastation?

Wow. Well perhapse youll get lucky with this one. It might just be a band adjustment issue. If not you have a 2 for one special, two 3ats to make one good rebuilt unit. Im very sorry to hear about this.

i dont beileve the car will run with an active issue setting codes 11 & 13. But I do beilve if ur pulling codes engine off those codes will flash as presesnt. Recheck your connections to the solenoids. Code 12, may have been set if it took alot to get it started. I cannot remember if that signal wire is connected to the switch or the solenoid stock, you may have left it disconnected but I think youd have a difficult time getting it started sfter sitting for awhile. Might just try resetting the codes and see if any come back. And for the idle, have you driven the car enough to warm it up?

When I removed the one in thats my garage I tilted it and one or both shafts slid out partially. I remember fiddling to get it/them back in. Its been a couple years, and I cannot remember if it was just the turbine shaft or just pump or both. When I took the photo i wasnt able to easily slide them out. Its possible something caused play in this shaft and the splines failed. Could it just need a shaft... I hope so. But ide still be afraid to put a new one in until I know why it failed.

This info is in this thread several posts back including a chart from the fsm and recomendations for a resistor. Btw its kilohm, must have been misprint in ur manual.

26 psi is a bit high ide check to see what you have for pressure in the return line.

Did u ohm out this "new" sensor? I mentioned the grounds already but will mention it again.

That pump shaft isnt much thicker than a sharpie pen. Its long too.

Might as well pull the filter too make sure theres no obstruction behind it. Im guessing u checked everything made sure it was tight, how bout those tubes? Had my fingers crossed but i guess this is the real world and nothing is that easy.

There Is only one relay for the lighting (stock) that i remember. It controls + for the system and is triggered by the ign switch. The most common reason for no panel lights (especially if the park lights work) is the dimmer knob on the very end of the switch. Might need to fiddle with it and see if lights return. This will have no bearing on your glove box tho. This pot varies the ground to the panel lights only (dimmer). So my previous post was slightly misleading, the glovebox light can be on with the panal lights off. That new FSM should help out alot.

Dude, been there done that! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/97791-spfid-brat-poor-idle-and-pinging/ Whats ur intake setup like? Fuel pressure readings on both sides of the regulator? Tps readings? Has any one touched the throttle stop screw? Its marked with a gob of paint, and yes it matters. How are you setting your timing? Dont forget those connectors... What was your engine condition befor the swap? Any idea of compression? These were all things that casued me trouble after my swaps. Btw your o2s completed the ten step program befor leaving the factory and no longer likes to drink alcohol. Might be time to try a heated o2s. Where is it? Moot point i suppose as your new cat will have the bung in the converter.

But seriously no disrespect intended, http://www.ebay.com/itm/ANSA-REAR-EXHAUST-MUFFLER-SU1447-58059-1983-1984-SU-BARU-DL-GL-2-DOOR-/261745524260

Haha ive never even looked for a stock replacement muffler for any car Ive owned. This would be the simplest option, plus all the cool kids are doing it.

I dont see this happening without being pretty noisey. He says he has clean fluid and nothing when revved which kinda rules out the TC. Aside from the splines of the TC. stripping the at the pump shaft or one of the shafts. Maybe the shaft failed but y? Im getting the impression from looking at his website he has access to another tranny, which is why I was pushing him to drop the pan and rule out the easy and obvious. If that pump seized it took the shaft and possibly TC with it. If it grenaded the tranny may be full of pieces and where the heck will you find those replacement pump innards? Then you have to wonder how many variations of 3ats are there? Safer to have one whole tranny. But he is an engineer and for him to accept "all the kings horses" it will require thorough diagnostics and testing. I give him props for that. For me... 5 neutrals and a park with clean juice and no easy to spot external issues would have me at the bone yard. All joking aside DaveT, if you do tear this critter down Ide like to see pics and documentation (I know its a pain). Not just for my personal interests in these but for the forum's. I bet its in great shape aside from what killed it. These have a bad wrap on here for several reason but in my experience with the EA81s this tranny is superior to the 4 speed manuals in reliability.

Unless you have one of these gems handy its likely not worth the effort. Ej adaptor plates are surprisingly affordable.

I believe the glove box lamp gets it power from the head light switch and the door switch controls its ground (it will only work when the dash is lit up). Cig lighter only hot in accy or run, and clock only in run.

"all the kings horses" Haha friggen GD! Im hoping this thread wont become a "manual swap" thread. At this point a pressure check has become more trouble then its worth. If you really want to pull a cooler line you can but it may not tell u much. Even if fluid pukes out it doesnt mean theres enough pressure to operate the tranny. Drop the pan...

This works!? I didnt think blowing through a TBI would work right, and youre running the stock ecm. Whats your compression? Well If you get this system useable we deserve a write up on it!

If you need the car to drive to work, you could try snipping off the cts and soldering in a resistor . Ide like to see ur turbo setup.

Yes I gave you a chart. U might retest you are checking the one for the F.I. right? Not the one for the gauge?

"I spliced the spfi pump connector with the one off the carb pump when I went turbo with the carb. So it uses the original fuel pump ground." I dont dig that, but in all honesty its likely fine. Another quick check for you since im fuzzy on your intake setup. Make sure that the intake boot is tight at both ends and hose for the IACV is leak free and downstream of the MAF. While your there do a quick vacuum leak scan.

Awesome. I guess its time to open up the FSM too the auto tranny trouble shooting section and follow the tree for "no drive in any gear". I still think you should drop that pan first. Keep us posted.

Recheck your grounds on the manifold, and ohm out your cts 1st. Ide think youd get some life with a wet throttle bore but you might consider checking the fuel pressure (wish these things had a test port!) plugging in the test connectors so the pump runs. Where is the pump grounded? You have checked the ign system but have you verified spark and the quality of spark?