ihscout54

Grab a complete coil assy too.

One huge issue with message boards texting etc is the recipients (or world's) perception of a tone. Im not real well written, and this often translates to a cynical or indignant tone. It is not intentional, and Ive edited many posts because of this. I doubt that anyone here is annoyed, we can tell your getting frustrated tho. This is not a real easy conversion and its one I havent done in a long time. When someone asks very deep and specific questions, I like to give specific answers. Unless its right off the top of my head this requires looking at one of my cars or digging through diagrams to refresh my memory. I dont mind doing that, but this would require my time and energy, so I like to be sure its truly needed. Thats why my above posts were vague. I know you said the bracket is in, but you did not mention anything about the amplifier (we asked). The ECM sends a signal to the amp, and it actually does the switching. The ECM simply cannot handle the current needed to drive the coil. In the above pic with the coil, the amp looks to be missing and there is a few extra wires to the coil Im not familure with. That catches our attention. If we can get you sparking by fixing what jumps out at us as a possible issue without even opening our own hoods, thats a win for all. My request for a photo was to help clear up what I saw as a possible issue and also to help refresh my memory. Im sure some of the old posts you have read on this were mine, so you have seen that Ive been exactly where you are once befor. If I can help, I will.

Forgive me father, its been over 5 years since my last conversion. We all think you are missing the transitor/amplifier. Take a pic of your ready to run and spark coil setup. Then lets go from there.

One is a hot, and one is to the ECM. Tom already said this but you are going to need the coil wired in the bracket with the transistor in place and installed on the car. Just so you know, through the years of production, the spfi systems swapped wiring around to/from the distributor. So say your ECM is from a 87 and youre harness and disty are from a 92 you wont get spark till you swap around the wiring to match.

Use google to assist with the relays thats std info theres tons of diagrams out there. Either purge canister can be used pick the best looking one between the 2. The forth line (in your case) was for the bowl vent on the carb. It just needs plugged.

ISo the disc is tight and release fingers compressed due to proper contact or sandwiching? From what you are describing it sounds like the issue may lie else where in the system. Whats the play like when you jiggle the fork? You should be able to feel when the fork/TOB assy touches the release components but not tight or stuck. If that feels good, Ide hook up the cable and work the clutch. This may aide in your diagnostics, Im assuming the engine is bolted to the trans and mounts at least resting on the frame.

Alignment pins holding it up? Does the 1/8 gap between the cover and the flywheel disappear when you torque the bolts down (cover mounting flat and flush)? Its under spring pressure so there will be resisntance as you tighten it up. Thats how the clutch is engaged.

Im confused about the 1/8" gap. Where is that? We agree it doesnt matter you have some work to do anyways. When I had parts issues it was adjustment problems not a lack of engagement.

So the disc is still loose and just floating around when you tighten the cover bolts? What year is the car?

There are three lines that connect to the canisterp. Two from the engine and one from the tank. The lines going to the engine are very simple; from the purge solenoid to the control valve actuator, and from the intake manifold to the bottom of the valve on the cannister. IIRC they are different sizes so they cant be mixed up.

A backwards disc would cause other problems, or so I would think but thats my next thought.

Sounds like the flywheel was not machined correctly. These cars have a stepped flywheel, so the pressure plate mounting surface must have the same ammount of material removed as the disc mating surface. are you sure there isn't some other install issue like clutch cable adjustment or throw-out bearing or fork not seated correctly?

The line you are describing with the thermo valve on it can be deleted/plugged. Best way to do it is to get rid of the metal pipe that had the barb for it. Replace it with some pipe tubing or run a new hose from the water pump to the heater core under the manifold. You can buy pieces of hose with the bend in them, if we are on the same page youll know exactly what Im talking about. The line from the thermostat housing can be attached to the barb in the block which is fairly close to being under the housing with the manifold installed.

If you wanted to save some money look into these. They might even be available locally. http://www.ebay.com/itm/370504311314?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT http://www.ebay.com/itm/272295635804?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Subaru wasnt the only one to use such gizmos. I have diagrams for both and have used the VW unit. I have a volvo relay waiting in a box for experimentation, just havent needed it yet. I recomend wiring in a secondary relay to handle the pump, I have found that aftermarket universal pumps like to cook the transisors in the FPCU. Not sure why, they usually have an even lower amp draw than the factory pumps.

The 1-3 results are pushing the ok barrier. It may be indicating a head/gasket problem, valves, rings, scored cyls just on that side. Ide redo the test for good luck. Listen through the oil fill cap or pcv line for air. Check the radiator for bubbles as well, the air is going somewhere. Im pretty vauge on this test as Ive only done it once. Compression numbers look decent enough for me. The engine runs good, uses minimal oil, and consumes no coolant right? Plugs were nice color... At 200k the more you test the more you'll find. I still wonder if the issues causing the failure have been resolved. You have a good cat on there now and we have not seen 950 rpm idle since the origional test. What would happen if you were to take the emissions test again?

With the MAF unplugged did everything seem smoother? I cant even remember if the car runs without it but I think it will and Ive done it before. If its much smoother unhooked it might be indicating unmetered air is getting in behind it. The O2 readings aren't good sounding, and actually may confirm what Naru has said (lean), but again without a scope or a nice meter it wont be a useful test.

The video gave me no ahah revelations. Just a few eh maybe's. I have not had the privilage of working in a speed shop full of new engines to be tuned. I have only used vac gauges on old beeters in the 150-200k range, and those readings didnt seem real outa the norm, same goes for the tach. There were a few blips that made me think "yea maybe a miss". The fuel pressure seems to be on the high side as well, but not extreme. Have you tried unplugging the MAF (engine off) and then running the car? I suggest checking for codes first, as you will have one to clear after.

I cant get the video to work and I havent had a chance to try it on a non mobile device. Naru, thank you for telling us what the led flashes are corresponding to. You also confirmed that the silver ECM works the way we assumed. Steady unlit could also mean the O2s is not warmed up or is weak dying what ever. It seems this system is very forgiving when it comes to setting an O2S code. Trying to use just any old ohm meter will give varying results, but may still be of value for his testing purposes.

700-737 rpms is pretty slight. 700-920 isnt. Is it possible you have already solved the problem? Did you ever end up doing a compression test? More thoughts on the EGR and IAC, its not just the diaphragm on the EGR than can cause issues, the pintle or seat could have wear or carbon what ever keeping it from closing all the way. Sounds like its good just confirming. Did you plug the hose for the IAC too see if any change occurs? For that matter take some needle nose pliers and pinch every hose to the manifold looking for a change. Throttle shaft play or leakage there? -long shot... IIRC Injector spray pattern can be inspected with the MAF unplugged and boot off. Look for any leakage in there first. I cannot remeber if I used a timing light (Gm style) or just looked at it with a flash light. Ive had GM TBI injectors drip, dribble and spray a with 70% pattern and cause weird but surprisingly minor issues.

Needle nose pliers make great hose pinchers.

If you feel and agree the idle situation is an issue, Ide like to add this again, or just state it if I havent yet. HC is hydrocarbons, or unburned fuel. Rich, or too lean causing a miss and spitting fuel, or anything that could cause a miss. Of course the cat plays a roll in elimination of these emissions. Just trying to help keep you on track.

I connot give you any more info on the LED monitor system since Im not sure if its the same on your car as what I have described. Ide say its not in closed loop at idle. its hard to see while driving but you should be able to force it into closed loop for your viewing. After a drive hold the accelerator at 2k while watching the LED. Check the FSM, or wait for a replier that knows if the silver ECM is the same as the black unit (at least in this aspect). How much variation are you seeing max, both RPM, hg's? Are the vac readings varying with rpm fluctuations, or just dropping and climbing? You could just be seeing a miss. Did you check other possible leak points like intake manifold gaskets, TB base, EGR valve, vac solenoids, canister purge valve ....? Weve mentioned the egr befor if it isnt closing all the way it may act as a leak. Some leaks are tough to catch, think brake booster HVAC system etc. Did you try pinching off the purge line while watching the vac gauge? Im surpised plugging the pcv valve had no effect at all. Ign system is good right? Fuel pressure check and injector spray pattern check may be next on the list.

The post above has your answer. The ea82 units are commonish as they used like 8 per car. Pretty sure Ive got one or two lying around. Ide be tempted to just live without it if you cant find another. Im not sure how bad (if at all) that would really be on the reg or injectors. I think nothing would really happen. Of course one may argue "its there for a reason". If you still insist, the old ford style units are available online and would probably work fine. I could not varify the nipple size, I dont see them being larger than 3/8 and you could probably make that work. Google is your friend, and you have the part number. Good luck let us know what you do. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Standard-Motor-Products-FPD1-Pressure-Damper-/272098156269?hash=item3f5a505eed:m:mfUarlwLkzpTQN4WL5YzS5A&vxp=mtr Cheaper on rock auto, only if you have other things to order.

Ive ran both thermostats and prefer the 19x but I noticed no difference in performance with either. The blinking led O2 lamp on the ecm is your indicator on closed loop status. If its blinking or on off erratically its in closed loop if its off its in open loop. Or so thats how i remember it. I cant say if the silver box on ur car works this way as my only experiance is with my SPFI swaps which were all the older black box types. I do know that my cars would fall out of open loop at long stop lights, and I liked the idle quality better in open loop. I eventually installed a heated O2 and that stopped. You may have found your issue already. Did you ever get a tach on there?

I really cannot tell you for sure If the cat is 100% responsible for the excessive numbers at idle. You are pretty sure that aftermarket cat is DOA, it needs addressed. I will say there are many who brag of getting through such tests cat free, but Ive never tried it. The plugs were an interesting find. Is it possible the a/c was on during the test? Any added load during idle, maybe the inspectors toe on the gas or hand keeping pressure on the steering wheel? For fun maybe a code scan. Does the silver Loyale ECM have the O2 monitor lamp? If so you could watch its function while sitting at idle. If its falling in and out of closed loop that might do some odd things. I personally would want to know why the idle is/was high and Im pretty sure you have access to a decent tach. Confirm the idle situation and work from there. Any small issue would be most prevalent at idle; crappy plug wire, corroded cap n rotor, leaky injector, out of spec fuel pressure, evap/purge system issue, intake boot tear or cracks, any leak for that matter... On and on.