ihscout54

Ide drop the pan first, check filter, see if the valve body is loos or has a blown out gasket.. What manual do you have? pm me if u need help with that. Silverhelm has rebuilt these and knows them far more than I. When I get home ill look at the 3at in the garage and see if the pump can come off easily in the front. IMO its easier to pull the motor but honeslty less work and less mess to pull the trans. Its tough to get it out from under the car without a lift. A pressure test kit would be awesome here.

Now that you have daylight Ide recheck the fluid again, warmed up after completely cycling through all the gears. Dont just look at the level check color and see if its severely contaminated (like it has antifreeze in it). For you to have nothing in any gear suggests a pressure problem: Failed pump, clogged filter, bad internal leak etc.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/25367-mayonaise-in-crankcase-where-is-water-coming-from/

I thought about the stripped hub but ignored it since he mentioned no noises and nothing in 4wd. This totally possible even if the 4wd switch and solenoid were good the clutches might not be. Another easy thing to check for.

Everything sounds good make sure you arent getting odd pressure bubbles or foam in the radiator. Theres only 300 miles on it a tiny bit of moisture sludge in the pcv system would bug me but I wouldnt even think about pulling anything. You are likely planning on an oil change soon if its clean and coolant free then maybe just keep an eye on it. Its possible its just moisture. Ive personally never seen this happen but ive heard of it.

Your posts are good and I realize you are savy but I still feel the need to throw this out for you. The most common reason for a no drive situation on any auto is very low fluid. Its unlikey it would just happen but might take a peak befor u pay for a tow. You could have blown a cooler line and dumped some fluid... While you have the dipstick out might as well give it a sniff.

The 82 shouldn't have a carter 1bbl, as long as its a 2bbl then it will fit the manifold. But there are variables to this, IIRC they changed choke setups and other little things that you can work around .Your concern will be feedback systems. The feed back system from 82 may not be the same as 85. Iff you dont have emissions where your at odds are good if either car is feedback the system has been worked around/removed. If the 82 is a feedback model you just may not want to mess with it. Im sure the car has more value to it tho.

That was the answer i was looking for, Thank you for sharing.

Struts new, the rear torsion is likely cranked (not by me) I like the height in the rear just wondered if only lifting the sub frame in the front would give a nice rugged level look, perhaps im being cheap too. The only thing that has stopped me in the past is the steering extension, and I believe there is a recipe for the front strut mounts to be 17 degrees offset or something, Now I just dont have time to mess around so if I do go lifted i better just have a kit.

Prwa I have questions for you... Has any one ever lifted just the front on an ea81? My brat has a pretty hefty "rake" ide like it level. Tho I could probably do this myself your work looks pretty clean. Any pics of the 2" ea81 kit? Does the kit work for the automatic ea81s? IIRC theres a couple extra bolts that need spaced for the auto cross-member. Whats your turn around time on these?

Gotcha, the wire in the pic has come out of the connector? Its a pain but the terminal inside the connector can be removed with a small flat screw driver or pick. Then replaced or soldered etc. Since the harness is a mess anyways ide cut the harness off the busted light or get another at a j-yard, it doesent have to be a brat just find a similar connector and solder it for better results.

"Any idea how to fix a plug with broken wire such as this, not the same taillight as I'm having issues with either." Whats the deal with the wire nuts, was that a repair or do you have trailer lights? Its time to dust off the soldering iron and heat shrink. Wire nuts are not a trust worthy connection.

If coolant comes out of the hole then its not a tranny cooler port those should be barbs sticking out of the rad cap side. Its likely a port for a fan temp switch.

"Pieces went together okay, the tail, turn, flasher, backup lights don't function correctly. I turn the flasher on and all three bulbs flash faintly, tail light does come on with lights, as well does the backup," So your saying everything works correctly except when you use the turn signal? Or the back up light comes on with the park lamps? Its possible that the wire for the turn signal lamp was damaged at the socket and is slightly shorting to ground. If a visual inspection yeilds nothing you might try letting the signal blink while you juggle the connections where they enter the sockets and see if it makes any difference. Do this with the ground wire too (the one attached to the metal socket housing). I also want to add that I kinda doubt the error light flashing on the ecm is related.

Wheel bearing, describe the noise for us.

I think the bottom 2 look like oil fill tube gaskets, the top right looks possibly like a gasket for a turbo or mpfi tb. The tbi used an o-ring. Middle one doesnt look familure, and top left has been identified by skishop.

Tho Im not an expert with ea82 heater system this sounds like a classic blend door issue to me. I belive there is no valve to control coolant flow so heater operation is controlled strictly by which way the air flows.

"Only fitting on the bottom of the tank is the drain plug" I was just thinking that. Perhapse someone used this hole for a repair but who knows what threads it has and what a terrible spot to try to get ur fuel from, even if its not picking up every lil piece of crap from ur tank it is just wating to get snagged by something.

If your talking about the fuel outlet or the return line the only ones ive seen were welded to the tank. So is there a threaded bung there now? It sounds like a repair attempt. If some one has professionally installed a bung there u simply need to figure out what size n thread it is and hit lowes or a part store for one. If you dont have a bung then someone unprofessionally repaired this tank and its gunna get a lot more complicated. Once upon a time i had seen universal tank taps but im sure a lawsuit or two removed these from our market.

As suggested cap n rotor.... Did the new disty include the module? 82 4x4 should have an elctronic hitachi with the module under the cap. Those wires that go from the disty to the coil are another point to be checked with ohm meter, iirc ones yellow ones black and prolly cracked and cooked. I once had a connection issue at the module itself. Also you should take a look at operetion with the cap off while some one cranks it for you. Just to make sure everything is spinning right in there.

Too bad thier shipping has exploded. Just watch how every item you add causes shipping costs to jump up, even a thermostat gasket costs you 60 cents extra to ship in a box of other items. Not long ago shipping used to cap off around 10 bux. Not anymore. I keep meaning to email and ask them about this.

Not in any way plugnplay and not a beginner task but with 400 bux to burn Ide be considering this: http://www.useasydocs.com/quickstart.htm http://www.ebay.com/itm/Megasquirt-Microsquirt-V3-Version-3-EFI-Controller-w-3ft-harness-FREE-O2-sensor-/111405238213?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item19f04507c5&vxp=mtr Im not looking to start a ms debate just want to make jarred aware of this option, if he is not already. Do a little resurch and decide if the megasquirt plunge is right for you.

He doesnt mention weather hes 4wd or not. EA71/EA81 will make a difference too. We need the drivetrain specs of the cars to properly answer the question.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=76906 Also give this a read as it may apply to this situation. Good luck.

Are you saying it wont even crank, or it just wont start? Does it start with the connectors hooked up? Are you sure about that? The SPFI ECM #'s changed like every year. I went through a no start nightmare when I changed ECM's. I too was informed that all black ECU's interchange. There were 2 wires whos pins were reversed going to the disty, took me a couple days to track it down. This was an '87 to '88 y.m. kinda change. Especially being an '85 you want to make sure you get an ECM with matching #'s. Things like style of MAF sensor on board might cause issues for you. but- I KNOW NOTHING ABOUT TURBO EA82 CARS!