ihscout54

Awesome I dont have any EA82's but I admire the extra time anyone takes to put greasy finger prints on their camerea . I always think about taking pics and doing a write up but its an extra hassle while doing a job. Thanks!

I dont care for the bosch O2S's but I have an extra 3 wire that should fit... Anyone say ya or nay for bosch on these cars. Still like to hear some more results on this befor I play...

Anyone out there still running w/SPFI ea81? Im wondering if there would be any real benefits (worth the time and $$$) to try a 3 or 4 wire o2 sensor. I was watching my O2 lamp and I started to get the feeling I *might* see some MPG increase with this mod.

Sorry poor wording my issues were more "outside" of the write up (which was fantastic). Im not trying to hijack this thread, but since these issues my be of concern to the O.P. Ill post them here. Its been a few years now so memory is poor, but my first big issue was that for some odd reason the distributor wiring did not match the the harness to the ECM I had to swap a couple wires, took a bit to figure out. Perhapse it was the reason the car I pulled the parts from was at the JY. Next was the A/C compressor couldnt be hooked up to the A/C signal wire. Dont do it, the results are bad. Then I had excessive fuel pressure. I tried numerous things including clearing out the return line but in the end I had to replace the line with a larger one. Since no one else reported this issue it must have been something out of order with my car. I fought a nasty ping/knock issue for a year anything under load over 3500-4k rpms would make it ping, in the end lowering my fuel pump (below the tank) seemed to solve this, I also found better results with my plugs gapped to .039. The only other thing, which Ive never solved, is a rougher than desired idle which is a little low, its not horrible, just not as nice as Ide hoped for. Ive tried adjusting the idle screw on the TB (not the set screw) and it does basically nothing.

It sounds to me like its time to hit it with a temp gun, or drop in a mechanical temp gauge. All my EA81 GL's temp gauges have read between 1/4 and 1/3. Werent you having some issues w/gauges befor?

The wiring is the hardest part of the swap, aside from the disty mod, but its alot less than an EJ swap. The poster in the linked threads made his SPFI swap work in CA, but he had some issues... I had some other issues not addressed in the SPFI write up. Honestly with the cost of JY parts these days its really not that cheap to do this swap.

If I was going to swap engines the EA82 wouldnt be my 1st choice. The SPFI swap is decent but not without its hassles, Ive had many bugs to work out but I will say it is better than the hitachi was. These threads might be of interest to you. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=93412 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=89819

I dont know which Weber/choke you have but Im sure they adjust the same unless its a manual. If its a manual choke it should be real easy to figure out. Still need to check it while cold 1st make sure its closing. Youll need to pop the top to check the fuel level in the bowl, if its pretty low after sitting its leaking. One other thought for you is your starting procedure, now that the weather is warmer you may be pumping the pedal a couple times and its flooding it a little?

Your post makes it sound like you were "creeping" up a mountain road... You didnt mention 50mph. I will mention if your car is actually running that hot your fan shouldnt be kicking on and off. It should just be on trying to get the temp down, if you come to a stop and your gauge is in the red and the fan pops on and then off, Ide question the gauge and/or the fan system.

A five year plan huh? Is Stalin taking over operations at the Fuji plant?

Sounds like its stretching and its about to go... Mine was doing something similar, I had to keep adjusting it once a month till it popped. Another thought is that you are not tightening the adjustment lock nut enough, or its just missing... This could be a choke issue, when its still cold, set it and check to see its closed. Also if your leaking fuel from the float bowl and its bout empty when you go to start it it wont fire till it gets some fuel in it. You might look under the bowl for leaks and check the fuel level in the sight glass while you check the choke (Hitachi).

Did you hear your radiator fan working? It would be the first thing Ide check.

What is your timing "jumping" too when it acts up? Make sure to plug in the green connectors befor you set the timing, remember its 20 deg since its SPFI. The EA81 doesnt have a timing chain, so jumping timing would be a bit of a trick. Your sure the gear/pin on the distributor is good and tight? Keep in mind that was one of the tricky parts of the SPFI swap.

Heres a great read to get you started! Kinda big download though. http://www.suberdave.com/USMB/HTKYSA.PDF

Try holding the throttle pedal down a little while you push it in, this should relieve any drag from the cam. If you can get a helper and have them work the cable in the cab while you watch the choke you should be able to pinpoint exactly whats going wrong. If not youll need to work the mechanism on the carb by hand a few times to see what is going on. Something is too tight/binding somewhere, maybe the cable is not making a reasonably straight shot from where the sheething ends and where it ties in to the mechanism etc... Good luck.

Well Ive been working 50 hrs a week so Ive finally got a weekend to get back on this. Heads are milled and the block is as clean as Im going to get it. The B/A gaskets are very lame compared to the Felpros, similar to stock but the Felpros are what Ill be using. I also have questions.... This engine doesnt have head alignment pins like the EA81 I worked on did. Instead it has a collar over two of the studs which does a really poor job of aligning the head/gasket. Im getting some play out of one side and Im pretty concerned about alignment issues. They mention a tool in some of my searches but no real info about it. Any tricks here? Also I cant seem to find the socket I ground down for the head nuts, is there any reason I cant dissasemble an extra EA81 rocker assy and use the attatchment pieces as spacers to tourqe the head. Then remove them and install the the rocker arm assy and push rods and tourqe the two bolts? Would this interfere with the gaskets seal in any way?

I was a lost on that too. Oil brand/type/viscosity is almost like a political debate with car guys, everyone has their own set of religious standards. BUT our owners manuals disagree on the 5w30 for ea81/82, unless its really cold. It flat out states in all manuals Ive seen that "5W-30 is not recommended for sustained high speed driving". Perhapse overseas that is not the case but why risk troubles? I live in the desert South West and I only run 20W-50 in my EA-81's. I have also found the high oil pressure thing to be pretty common on these, especially if you only take short trips.

Yes BUT, you will have to make sure you leave it in neutral when you park it from now on. You will also probably need to disable the neutral safety switch. Well unless your car runs pretty rich and starts easily in the winter without the choke being set this wont work well. I guess if you have a manual choke you could always pull the knob befor exiting the vehicle but that still might not be enough to get it to fire in the winter.

I have a feeling just messing with the connectors was enough to solve the issue. Sometimes all it takes is a twist back and forth the improve the connections.

Haha sorry didnt mean to sound rude in my reply! I guess Ive been reading too many of G.D.'s posts. were still on topic

If you have a feedback carb there is several lines that run between the intake and solenoid valves. The valves are located near the hood hinge on the passenger side. Feedback or not there is a line that enters the cabin a few inches away from there. Though a little far from the wheel the O2 sensor wire is a possible culprit (feedback only). What ever it is should be easy to I.D. and hook back up. Just find the barb thats missing the hose. Ive never seen an EA81 w/the tank unless its been added, and even so the overflow should be on the driver's side. Sounds like the rear tranny seal. It would require you to pull the drive shaft out to replace it. Easy job but if you arent really leaving big spots I wouldnt be too worried about it. Check the level and watch for spots.

First thing I would do is give the battery posts and terminals a good cleaning and tightening, Follow the cables and check their connections, where they end, at the block and starter, or where ever they end up in your car.

Agreed - NADA's values are only good for insurance purposes. They are just too high for real world use. This car sounds like a decent ride, and they are a little hard to come by, but a wagon in my area would have to be VERY clean to fetch $2k. I sold my wagon a couple years ago and it took a while to sell it running and driving at 1/4 that price. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=98880&highlight=wagon+vegas I got into these Subarus for 2 reasons. They were cheap to buy and cheap to feed. Ive now had 4 of these cars and I paid less than $400 for each. Granted they were purchased in need of repair. That being said it would have to be VERY clean for me to test drive one with a $2000 price tag, especially if its not a BRAT. Ive found 4wd vehicle prices in rural areas to be a bit high, but if $2k is the range of where this type of vehicle is commonly priced in your area, then perhapse its a fair price. It also comes down to what you want/need. If its ready to roll, runs quiet/sweet, the interior is decent, a/c is cold, etc. Then make an offer.

http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=pyle+shaft+style&hl=en&rlz=1C1CHFX_enUS405US405&prmd=ivns&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&biw=1024&bih=677&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=17000848276318884741&sa=X&ei=OULtTcy0I4WuvgPd-LzXDw&ved=0CE4Q8wIwAA As long as your not looking for anything with super audio quality or anything, I used one of these in an old ford truck recently. Its like any old style shaft stereo with adjustable shaft widths. I see no reason why you couldnt use it in your Subaru. Depending on your dash you may have to cut out the little platic bar that divides the tuner needle from the preset buttons. If you shop around I found mine on sale with speakers for $27 shipped. Please note the speakers supplied with the unit SUCK! http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PLR14MPF-Single-DIN-Dash-Style/dp/B0050VIHYA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1307394912&sr=1-1 This one actually looks better... Ive had good luck with cleaning/reparing the stock clarion decks that have the tape deck input. They have a reasonable output and can be modded to accept an aux input (3.5mm jack). Some junkyards have a flat stereo price thats not realistic for them, but if you can score a couple for under $10 you will have decent cheap tunes and keep your stock dash intact.

I agree 100% with 114k it will need it. along with a clutch kit, oil pump, gaskets... -rant coming- Well I was following this advice when I noticed on the side w/lower compression there is some bad cylinder wear. I assumed the lower compression was being caused by the H.G. issue but the wear in the bottom of the no. 2 and 4 cyls is leading to belive otherwise. My compression test results (note that I am at high altitude). 1- 160 nice 3- 160 same 2- 149 some slight odd wear on bottom of cyl 4- 139 The grooved cyl I think Ive decided, compression is still in spec, this is not my BRAT, this is a $100 car that will be getting like 5000 miles per year. So Im just going to slap the stuff on Ive ordered and not put any more money in this motor project. Ive been debating redoing the motor but its just not worth it. My machine guy died a year and a half ago, when he died I lost my EA81 we were rebuilding (shop employees put the stuff outside during monsoon season). The work isnt the issue its the cost and trouble of having it bored (is it can be) and crank reground and sourcing a friggin cam as Im sure this one will be pitted... But its just not my style too bolt it together with fingers crossed...