ihscout54

Im not being a "D", I just wanted to be sure you have the manual. Just incase you didnt download it. It will save your tail. It has a great section on reading codes. Thay can be a little confusing if you have never read them befor. Morris Code.... If you have codes, it will point us in the right direction and get you on the road the right way. Yes, there is another set of connectors also, the manual and the USRM link describes these connectors and fuctions better than I can. The ECU is under the steering column, you have to pull the plastickick panel 1st.

The light flashes through the LED on the ecu under the dash its self. The cel should come on when you have the key on eng off. If it doesnt theres an issue. The prev owners may have pulled the bulb to hide the problem CEL was trying to tell you. Having the green test connector puts the system into a test mode. The fuel pump cycles and some sensors are used differently. Perhapse it just ignores the function the gear switch serves. They are meant to be unplugged unless you are diag-ing. Did you read the last posts I left you including the link to the manual? Im not really sure on your car how easy it is to access the bulb, Im going to say you will have to yank the cluster to get to it. If they were in a hurry to get er sold and werent really that knowledgeable or didnt care theres no telling what was done to get the CEL to "go away". Someone will correct me if Im wrong. But check it first Key on engine off...

Do you have the factory service manual? Its full of testing info. Incase you dont here's a link to GD's online copy of the engine section. Its for an 89, but should be just fine to get you through. http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/SubaruEA82-ServiceManualPart2.zip

Its prolly SPFI, one injector mounted ontop the intake. The boot should say "SUBARU F.I.". I converted my car to FI from carbureted, and had a number of lil bugs. You might try disconecting the A/C switch, or pulling fuses and see if any eliminate this issue. For some reason my compressor didnt agree with the FI (best I can figure). My BRAT does not have a spot to install a "gear switch" So I put a switch on the clutch pedal to trick the ECM into thinking it was going in and out of gear so it wouldnt set a code. The switch is just a simple on/off in gear or nuetral. Its funny though my car did the exact same thing when the compressor was on. It was fine and idled perfect, just a lil high, then as soon as you pushed the clutch in it would seek (up and down up and down). I never drove it enough like this to say if there was more to it, once it set a code I was off till I found it was something to do with th A/C. Your sure about the TPS, the idle setting may be out of adj or faulty. The MAF and temp sender may also cause a hunting condition, and they dont always throw codes. Is it possible someone messed with the idle stop screw? I also wonder if there isnt some kinda issue with the gear switch, bad contacts... Maybe you can unplug it. It will set a code after a while but that might stop the issue for now. Well yes, something is wrong, and just the simple up and down revving will waiste gas. It wont pass a smog check either. Just because it isnt catcing anything long enough to set the CEL, doesnt mean it hasnt caught something befor. There is a way to put it into a "self check" mode too. You might consider trying this.

When you first come to a stop the ECM will hold the idle a little high for a second or two. Then it should drop down to normal. If the engine is surging there should be some codes set. The fact that it starts when you put it into gear says the "nuetral switch" is working. There is a sensor that tells the ecm the car is in gear, the switch seems to be doing its job. I went through something similar in my car when I installed the F.I. It was being caused by the a/c system. For some reason the car would freak out and seek up and down when I engaged the nutral switch with the fan on in an a/c range. I disconnected the compressor and the problem stopped. I was getting a code for the idle control, so it sent me in the wrong direction totally. I dont want to send you an a wild goose chase either, but after reading your post my mind went straight to a/c... Do you have a/c, what position is your HVAC set to? But first step, check for codes! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49918

If the choke is sticking it will cause symptoms you are describing. What kind of choke do you have? You can pull the air cleaner when its acting up and make sure the choke is fully open, and that its not flooding. Does it smoke when it does this? A simple check for the tank vent is, when it starts doing it, open the gas cap, if that eliminates it youve found your problem. Have you checked your fuel pressure + fuel filters (including the one under the cab)?

That thing sure looks heavy for a EA to be tuggin around. Big tires too. Over in NZ its prolly fine, though.

Sounds like a choke problem to me, thats easy to check. Im going to assume you removed the old vacuum valves and plugged the unused manifold ports (theres only a couple). You should check the carb base for leaks, the gaskets that come w/some of the weber kits are junk, and the base of the carb often has a poor finish. It is also possible that the fuel is contaminated and the jets are getting plugged up. My only other thought is to check your plug wires and ingnition system. Make sure your vacuum advance is hooked up to the right port, and is working right. Next time its "running like crap", just unplug it and cap the line to see if it makes any difference.

It was an option, till '83 I think. Someone will correct me if Im wrong on the last year it was available, but it came on 4x4 GL's. Someone may have changed the grill out and removed it, your car is a DL, or it just didnt come with that option.

This is a pretty common swap, try this thread. There are many... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=88930

Its been 7-8 months now so its all a little fuzzy, but dumping that indicator bulb solved my issues. The way it was wired in series was causing it to enrgize the relay once it was illuminated. Only glass bulb touches my headlamp buckets. I remember going through, the wiring diagrams, and my '82 was different from what was in the diagrams. I also had to change the setup for the aux a/c fan relay, as it was dissabled when the lights were on, stock. It caused some kind of problem too, but I just dont remember what it was.

I recently upgraded my headlight system using relays, on my BRAT. Kinda dorky the way my lights were wired from the factory. You need to wire the (-) post on the relay as the trigger. Tap into the wire coming from the dimmer switch or set the relay up by the lights and tap into a neg. side wire going to one of the high beams. On my car, due to the way the high beams were wired from the factory, the "brights" indicator was causing my high beams to stay on after switching to low beams. Im not sure if that will be an issue on your car with what you are doing. I just removed the indicator bulb to solve that problem, a resitor would have worked too. note: if you want to use these lights w/the key off then you will need a constant for 86.

Well since you have no choice just do it right. I you can go to the junk yard and find another. It will be cheaper than buying a plug at the hardware store and FAR cheaper than buying a new one.

Im guessing your talking about one of the thermo vacuum valves. If its the front black one with a vac line to the air cleaner (which gets busted when removing the air cleaner) it controls stove-pipe on/off. You can unplug it and cap off the vac. line befor the valve. But it does help alot with cold driveability. If its something else we will need more details, I.E. location size etc.

HaHa! yea, seen those befor, infact theres still one stuck inside my drain pan rolling around in there every time I dump it. Been there since I first brought my BRAT home and went through all the fluids. They're the reason I replaced the tranny.

Just read the link I posted... Sorry the particular set I sent you are for euro-cars, not DOT approved. But the seller has DOT aprvd units in their store. If these are to serve as the brights only it prolly wont matter if they are DOT or not but if they are the hi/lo's then it will.

I used something similar on my car. Keep searching ebay using the lamp numbers you will find better pricing (H4651 H4656 etc). Try "AutoPal". http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/165mm-H4651-H4656-H1-H4-EURO-CONVERSION-HEADLIGHTS-SET_W0QQitemZ330403004113QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item4ced8dbed1 I will warn you though without upgrades to the wiring/switch you wont be seeing a huge increase in output at all. You might even see a decrease. I have no experiance with the quad-light setup, but Im sure your car uses the same lame negative side switch setup. I rewired mine w/relays and the difference is huge.

IIRC the hazard realy has only 2 pins. They look kinda like this _ l . It may be square and plastic, it might be a little round tin can no telling as many different types were produced over the years. It shouldnt be big and metal, and I doubt it has a built in bracket. I hope this helps.

If you are running an EA81, there really isnt any great spots for an AUX gauge. I found the best spot is in the pocket under the little vent on the far driver side (in some cars its a speaker). Both of my EA81s had faulty oil pressure gauges. I tried all kindsa crap to get the factory gauge working but couldnt get it right. I bought my gauge on EBAY (cheapo equus or whatever) and it came with a mount. I had to go to a hardware store to buy an adaptor that didnt come with the kit. The supplied adaptors were too small for the stock hole in the oil pump. I also had to trim the sides of the bracket with a grinder a bit to fit the little pocket. Its a piece of cake took about 2-3 hours. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Equus-PRO-SERIES-2-Black-Oil-Pressure-Gauge-6144-NR_W0QQitemZ230402585359QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item35a510730f If you search a little more you may find one with free shipping. I seem to remember paying less that $8 for mine shipped. I think walmart used to carry them too. Good luck!

I played this little game with my BRAT when I first got it. Some one had messed with the idle mixture screw and it was just making my life miserable. There is a reason it is "pinned" especially on the feedback models. Aside from the float, a worn throttle shaft or a sticky secondary will create this condition. Also any unique vac leak will too. Especially a little leak after one of the many doodads (I.E. thermal vac valves) You know what, I dont miss the Hitatchi at all.

I would just go to the junk yard and find the capacitor. As for the pulley, it unbolts easily and the bearing can be removed. I matched it up at Lowes for like $5. On may car there were 2 of them.

If you havent replaced the fuel filter and inspected your vac system then nows a great time to do it. It sounds like a float/flooding problem, to me. Your going to need to pay attention to whats going on when this happens. Does it puff black smoke when its trying to die?

Its a "filter" its purpose is to eliminate alternator noise/disturbances that might interfere with sensitive electronics in your car. Without it; you will get a whine but only through your speakers. I would get a replacement for it. Yes as long as it is the correct unit for your car. As long as your sure its not coming through your speakers from the lack of a suppressor, then it could be a bad pulley (if applicable) bearing, water pump, or any rotating divice under the hood. You need to isolate where this noise is coming from. Perhapse if it is contaminated or improperly tensioned.

It sounds like a bad sender, the wire from the sender is grounded, or the gauge is done. Advice for both of you: check it with a mech. gauge.

Are you sure your estimates are accurate? That is alot of oil to run through. Your saying the smoke is coming out of the tail pipe (burning in the engine), right? Or are you saying its smoking under the car/burning off the exhaust itself? What color is this smoke if its coming from the tail pipe? If the engine is "using" the oil then you have some serious internal issues, or a PCV malfunction. If it is leaking it it should be pretty easy to spot. There should be puddles under the car. You might need to check it while its running. Have some one man the controls: rev it a little while you look under the car. Pay attention to the flywheel area and the oil pump. -Sam