ihscout54

Im guessing your running the stock gauge. If so, then, its pretty common. If your worried about it put a mech gauge on it, but alot of them read high when cold.

A couple more thoughts: Poor quality bearing. Bad rim/tire.

GD always has what ya need when ya need it. The pics show exactly what I was thinking in reguards to "just using a T". If you get another stock driver side "T" and fit it just like the pic shows it would be perfect. I personally would pref. having another hole in the box but this would work just fine and is cheaper, easier, and better than what your setup involved.

Dont just give in, I personally see where you are coming from. I have never had good luck with any "shop" re-man engine or carb. Unless you feel you are at fault in some way for the engines issues Ide be on the phone. Rebuilding is not cheap or easy. If you want the experiance then find a core to rebuild, but call CCR, maybe they will help you. I also think you should try to get the PCV system as close to stock as possible, even if you just used a "T". It may take a little work and modification to the air box but its probably better than your current setup.

I dont know what CCRs 3 year warranty coverage details are, but if you bought this from them you need to contact them. I would take it in and pay for the test so you have documentation of the problem and perhapse the mechanic can give you his opinion of exactly whats wrong. I would also take pictures and have complete log of what is going on. I have read nothing but good things about them and I have no doubt they will assist you in any way they can. Your probably under warranty still.

Did you tamper with the idle stop screw on the throttle body? If you did that may be your problem. You will need to check the idle switch portion of the TPS, to verify/disprove your theory. A faulty coolant sensor or fault in its cuircuit, will cause high idle issues. Ohm it out and check the specs. A stcky IACV (idle air control valve) is another posibility, you might consider cleaning it, regaurdless. I have included GD's link to the factory service manual part you will need. Just incase you dont have it. http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/SubaruEA82-ServiceManualPart2.zip

How recent? Ide do the compression test again.

I just put that p/n in google and found a listing on ebay for it. That will not work on the SPFI cars. Thats if the pic is of the actual item.

Have you inspected your choke? You also should be doing a thorough inspection of your vac. system, inluding the throttle shafts and carb base. The adaptor and gaskets from redline arent so hot from what I hear. Thats easy, try and wiggle the rotor/shaft, it should have very little play. Usually when problems begin the tach gets jumpy too. Is your vacuume advance working?

If its an autozone regulator (spectare) they are junk. Your better off without. Did you leave the return line hooked up?

New Zeland has always fascinated me, its amazing. But then again everywhere seems pretty campared to the Vegas desert. Your car is awesome, BTW, I wish my dash was that nice and clean.

Did any one see the video? The ipod jack is spliced in to where the tape deck would have connected. I PM'd you about posting photos.

Retarded and risky. The best replacement fuseable links for your car can be found for almost nothing at the junkyard. Im sure you need other things anyways. When you go and if you find them make a note where they go in what order. If you dont find your car, then find a car with 2 greens (40a) a red (50a) and a black (80a) they are just little loops of wire with female connectors on booth ends. I think if you look close enough the slots are labled with tiny lettering "green" "black" etc, cant remember on you car though. If not then the higher amp link goes on the thicker wires. Those links are pretty simple in function, they have special fire resistant sheething and the wire is a smaller gauge than the lead in the circuit they are protecting. They are the best way of protecting against a fire from a short. They dont give like a fuse and are used in higher amp amp circuits, it takes a serious problem for them to blow. Unfortuneatly when they do go many folks dont know about them and they just stick some bailing wire in their place. Not cool.

Did you check the pressure with out that regulator in place? The fuel pressure in your car shouldnt vary much at all. It does sound like its a bad pump. If you can source a Subaru pump that would be great they have a good lifespan, but Ive also had decent luck with the generic pumps as well. Check with ebay youll get the best price there if you can wait. Facet, Carter, Airtex, are all pretty similar pumps, just beware of no-name pumps. Also make sure if you do go aftermarket you get one with the correct psi for your weber like 2-4psi IIRC. The aftermarket pumps will require a little modification in the mounting and hose routing. Good luck!

Yea photoshop, didnt really wanna share my plate #. No when the orig tranny went I couldnt find one anywhere I finally lucked out and got one that was low miles... Single speed 4x4 though, and the shift rod lengths were different somehow. So it sits up a little. Works great though.

Just wanted to share the current condition of the BRAT. Its come a long way from the $300 car I towed home. Crazy custom lighting with a manly center lamp (dig the vid) http://s359.photobucket.com/albums/oo38/ihscout54/?action=view&current=lights.flv SPFI swap Semi pimped interior w/IPOD jack

Well getting the latest model EA71 isnt going to matter as much as getting the best core engine you can find. Im guessing you have the top mounted starter. The later EA71s were side mounted. Not sure about what was available down ther though. I know here in the US EA71s are getting very rare and rebuild kits for them are impossible to find. Have you considered changing everything over to the EA81 and trans? I recomend that you get at least 2 cores if you can, I went through 3 befor I found a block worth salvaging. Tear 'em down then youre off to a machinist. He tells you what you will need based on what was salvegable, and what size bearings you will need. He may also have suppliers for a master rebuild kit, or at least a rod kit whatever is available for your motor, maybe with a discount. Since your still running with plenty of time you might start looking for a weber and adaptor, maybe seek out a cam grinder to set you up with a better cam grind if possible and any other perf mods you can desire. Do it right, and do everything you want this time. A warning though if you do mods there will be headaches. Relax and take your time.

I think hes in New Zeland.

I dont live in Washington but in my experiance, many metal suppliers will have a by the pound scrap bin. I have also had pretty good luck on Craigslist. The only problem with craigs is that the seller will make you take everything for $30, or whatever, and all you want is 2 pcs. I dont know how cheap you are hoping to get your metal, but Ill warn you even scrap is steep right now... Good Luck.

At this point it probably wouldt do any good. I just cant get over the fact that you recently built this engine inc new bearings, crank grind, etc. I still say rod bushing/wrist pin. Keep thinking on it maybe more details will come.

If you dont have TIVO its one way of getting through the redonculous amount of prime time commercials.

I might put a mech oil pressure gauge on it just for fun. I know for a fact that my mood can eliminate or enhance any flaw from a rough idle to an engine noise. But thats interesting. If it is a rod bearing it should be most pronounced under load maybe even being lugged a bit. Piston slap could be kinda intermitant I suppose, but then again an issue with the rod bushing/wrist pin might be too. Especially if there is an oiling issue with that pin. Ill mention one more thing, both my roos have a odd faint rod like noise mostly when cold, I was concerned about it till I got the other car and it made a similar noise. Its pretty faint, and I noticed it sounds nasty inside the car, but really faint under the hood. Been that way for 3+ years so, some old stuff is noisy and some owners are paranoid.

Youre questions are definately welcomed! The only reason I post is that I have had a number of questions answered by this board and its only fair that I contribute Anyways 4 years... Yea you have time. If the engine type you have is readily availible Ide buid one while driving. The only draw back Ive had is its hard to find a core thats worth a crap. Like you said: "find the latest model ea71" with the top mounted starter (if thats what you have). I just wanted to make sure you knew I wasnt telling you it was a wrist pin for sure, as I am not sure. BTW you cant be that much of an amateur, not everyone can rebuild their own engine.

Wrist pin its self or not, you will likely require the parts I mentioned as you have already narrowed the trouble down to that cyl. If it is not the bores. No matter what you will most likely have to pull this motor again when you are ready to remidy this issue Heres some food for thought. You have recently been through this engine (which was making the same noise befor the rebuild), and you did not mention any damage to the pistons or their bores. I also assume you spec'd the cyls. A rod bearing does not sound like a ping and may cause oil pressure issues. If it was valve/cam related it would still make a noise with the plug wire pulled. GD is 100% correct piston slap is a possibillity, but again Ide think youd have noticed some signs of that during the tear down, but it could have been missed. A screwed up rod bushing or an out of spec pin bore on the piston could be easy to miss especially if the wrist pin looked fair. Maybe a pin oiler hole was plugged, and caused improper wear. For all I know it is a bad plug wire arking on the block. It could even be that pulling the plug wire chnges the rythm of the sound enough that it muffles it. My opinion on your noise is 100% speculation, as I cannot hear it, but what you describe gave me the wrist pin vibe. Is this noise pretty loud? Did you replace the rod bushings? Compression check was good?

Its probably not the pin its self, but one of its connecting points or the bushing is out of spec. Did you replace the rod bushings? Start tracking down another piston, pin, and rod from a j/yard, so you have them ready when you are going to do the next rebuild. Its better to get stuff while you are driving then loose a month during a rebuild hunting parts. IMO you have time, just keep an ear on it. One of my ex-scouts had a wrist pin noise for 2 years (daily driver) and I sold it that way. It never got any worse, but just hearing it kinda took some of the fun out of my drives. Good luck!