ihscout54

Does this sound have any mech. rythm to it, or is it just kinda sporadic and random?

Correct, they usually make a clink clink tick sound and can sometimes be heard through the exhaust. I have never heard one on a flat 4 though. Since there is zero load on the piston when its not firing, wrist pin and rod noises dissapear when the cyl isnt firing, unless they are really bad.

Since its an automatic and you just tore out the dash (Im asuming the center console too) you should look for the nuetral safetey switch wiring. Just follow the wires from the switch on the shifter.

Sounds a little like a bad wrist pin. Perhapse the noise is too faint to notice under load. Could be an issue with the piston as well. You will need a laser thermometer to test your theory. I would think youde have a lousy idle befor youde have a ping at idle. Are you sure this is a ping, and not some other rattle? Does your car have an egr valve?

I just cant belive how great that car came out, and how fast you did it all. Very nice!

It would be better if it said "Passenger Eject".

I wouldnt trust the factory gauge for a second. To know for sure you need to test it, or hook up a mech. gauge. Even if it is accurate I dont think those readings are "bad".

You shouldnt have fuel in the intake boot. Its probably just oil, which means you need to clean it and the pcv system.

That is my 82's twin... Much nicer.

Southern AZ's uneployment is like 8-9% reported, Southern Nevada (Las Vegas) Is nearly 13% reported expersts are saying its closer to 20% not counting those who are under employed. STAY AWAY from Vegas. The cars looked pretty clean in the pics but if they arent so hot then you pass on 'em. Did the seller seem flexible/realistic, or was he one of those "if Im sellin it its made of gold" sellers?

http://tucson.craigslist.org/cto/1307666236.html Oracle is such a cute place Man I miss AZ. Im guessing thats the one. Fair enough price w/parts car. Finding parts for the gen 1's is really tough out here in the S.W, I passed one up a few months ago because I was too concerned about finding parts. The "a/c vehicle" means it doesnt work or has been removed... These are prone to rust, like any older vehicle. They both probably have the 4speed s/r trannys, Im pretty sure these had weak synchro's and sloppy/poor shifters (just like the gen 2's). Most likely they are 1.6l's (EA71)s. You might get more info in the gen 1 forum. But I wish you the best of luck, and hope to see you around.

Welcome, nice to see a local. There are very few brats out here.

There is a fairly simple way to test these... It will require the use of a digi volt & ohm meter, but will eliminate the need for unnecessary parts replacements.

Please read the link I left you in my post with the photos, it outlines the use of this sensor in an N/A vehicle. That socket appears correct, but I cant say for sure. Is there a junk yard there? It doesnt matter which wire goes on which side.

If you are talking about the sensor in the middle pic, no. You should just go to they j-yard even if they dont have any subies the p/n for the top sensor crosses over to a number of isuzus, geos, etc. Bring your old unit with you and match it up.

Yea, and now since you have to go to the j-y anyways you coulda just got one there. :-\

Its probably the sensor for the gauge or a turbo sensor. this is what you prolly have (for turbo): or (for gauge): this is what you need: If its the one in the first pic, you could source a plug off a turbo car, xt, geo tracker, isuzu, etc. You might be able to adapt your wiring to make use of this sensor. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75129

Follow the vac hose to the disty. The mushroom it goes into is your vacuum advance. Even if it is shot, it will not cause a vac leak at idle. Its easy to check with a vac pump or your mouth and long peice of hose (pop the cap suck and watch for movement). Your choke needs to be open when at operating temps. As noted befor check all gizmos and lines hooked to manifold vac, and the manifold gaskets themselves.

http://www.rpmmachine.com/engine-rebuild-kits-subaru.shtml Here are some options incase you need more.

Check your tie rods, first, one may be bent, or outa adj. - it happens. You can set toe yourself with a tape measure and some wrenches.

With these symptoms the first thing Ide do is check my timing. Should be 8 deg. BTDC. You need to also check your vacuum advance can for operation. They are a common failure point and can cause a stumble. You should also look past the carb for vacuum leaks to see if you find a bad circuit. Brake booster, cruise, line to firewall, both the vac valves, intake manifold, etc. If you trust this gauge (and its not timing related/vac leak) you will need to do a compression test.

Yea I went through it all. It seems fine now after cleaning the + battery terminal. That and unplugging the MAF were the only things that made a difference. Im still being pretty paranoid about it but I think its solved. A lesson learned, when you have odd issues like this: Clean youre batt terminals/ connections.

Did you check for codes? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49918 A faulty MAF might cause this. Unhook the intake boot and the MAF connector then have a freind crank the car while you look to see what the injector spray looks like. If you are trying to run the car with the boot off the TB and the MAF plugged in it will not work. I would think if the regulator was bad you would at least get it to start and run a little bit. If the IAC or CTS were bad you should be able to keep it running with the throttle.

I had already cleaned the ground lug where it mounts to the block and the batt terminal a couple days ago when I went nuts with the grounds. I decided to remove and clean the + terminal and clean it today. I hadnt messed with it yet because it was replaced it a few months ago. It looked ok but I cleaned it anyways. Well after my test drive that seems to have eliminated the ping and bogging. I cant belive I missed that the car would start, drive, lights would work fine 13.9 volts, yet it was a dirty + terminal causing these issues. If it comes back Ill let you know, but it looks like Ive just waisted usmb space, and alot of energy on something really stupid. :-\ Thanks guys

Im pulling my freakin hair out with this crap! Im getting a bog under heavy load w/poor acceleration now. No codes D-Check comes back clean, timing @ 22 deg. Ive checked my TPS CTS & MAF 50 times now. Ive backprobed sensors back to the ECM they are all good. CAT & O2 sensor is less than a year old, vac readings good. Fuel filter is pretty recent, pump screen is clean. Fuel pressure dead on at 21psi. Compression better than expected. Checked - regapped plugs & re-routed plug wires, added ground wire to coil bracket. Tried different coil, MAF, IACV, injector, fuel pump, pressure regulator, plug wires, cap & rotor. I plugged every vac line at source & pvc except power booster. Intake boot seems decent & leak free. Im outa ideas. Befor, I spend money on new NGK plugs and wires I know Im missing something. I thought perhaps the fuel volume was weak but I imagine that would effect pressure readings. My coil wire is kinda long but it wasnt a problem befor. This just happend.