ihscout54

You are probably looking for a digi unit with a speed input but, something like this little vac gauge would do the trick. It probably lets you rotate the face for "calibration" Im guessing. http://www.carparts.com/MILES-PER-GALLON-GAUGE/GP_2008961_N__10618.car

CTS is within specs. I guess fooling with the MAF could hide a lean problem caused by something else...

I checked the plugs, the pass side looked great, the driver side were a bit carbon fouled :-\. I wonder if its possible, that because Im running a cone filter that is sitting under the hood the air going in to the MAF is too hot and throwing off its signal? It doesnt seem possible but it is interesting that this problem has grown now that its redonculously hot outside. If you remove the filter and cover the lower half of the housing it smoothes out a bit.

Yes you need to do a compression test. It sounds a bit like a dead cyl. Did you check the cap&rotor?

PCV is new. I messed with it too. The plugs are a year old or so, but they are Autolights :-\ Im not sure what brand the plug wires are I replaced them w/plugs but I doubt they are NGK's

No its my ea81 Brat w/SPFI swapped in. Its a 4sp d/r. Your parents obviously had good taste. Always nice to see another Sam out there -Sam

Well it was running good for a bit but now running poorly. Has good power but intermittent low/rough idle and idle miss. Nasty ping that comes and goes. Checked fuel pressure, timing, TPS, vac system, EGR system and ran check for codes. Nothing out of specs found. I tried to up the idle on the IACV and it did very little. I cleaned the port and removed the screw, it was clean. IACV works fine. I unplugged the MAF sensor and idle came up and smoothed out and ping seems to have gone away. Car seems pretty decent without MAF (or in open loop). I cleaned the MAF, no change, then replaced it with my spare to no prevail. O2 sensor is pretty new... Im stumped.

Very breif EGR description.... Its purpose: Cool combustion temps to reduce NOX emissions. How it works: Under certain throttle conditions it pulls/redirects a small ammount of exhaust into the intake. If everything is working right exhuast gasses (mostly carbon dioxide) have already been burnt and dont burn again. These gasses displace a portion of the useable charge creating less fire and less heat without effecting a/f ratios. The combution chamber still fills up but with a little smaller amount of air and fuel and a bit of worthless gasses. The EGR opens at mid throttle/cruise rpms, under mid to light acceleration. It is out of the loop at idle and should be out at wot. TPS = Throttle positioning Sensor DVOM= Digi Volt Ohm Meter

This should help you with running the D-check. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49918 Befor you go and buy a new screw driver or make a mess with pliers, try putting a phillips bit in a socket and 1/4 drive ratchet and see if you can get it in there.

1st pic: Thermo vac valve, you wont need it with the weber but it might as well stay put as a plug. 2nd pic: The steel line is for the EGR system Just leave it, Ide leave the EGR system in. If you choose to remove the other component in the pic you will need to plug the port in the exhaust the steel line goes to. 3rd pic: It looks like the vent line for the fuel tank. 4th pic: There is no reason not to run the EGR so put it back on, but if you wish you can cover it with a steel plate. The little metal threaded pod is the PCV, you need this. 5th pic: Those lines were probably to the vacuum switches (black shrooms with wires coming out). If so they are not needed. 6th pic: That is a coolant line from the intake and must be hooked back up.

So many of the aftermarket components suck, theres just some things you have to get from subaru. Tom: If you have a DVOM there is no reason not to check your TPS, there is a procedure in the manual I left you the link for. There are also procedures to check many other components.

You will have to remove the whole thing. You will also need the new gasket and o-rings if you plan on disassembling it. I dont remember having any problems taking one off but if you have to; use a phillips bit in a 1/4" socket with a 1/4" ratchet. Nice and compact with a nice angle. I would check for vacuum leaks first and inspect the PCV & EGR system. It sounds more like a TPS issue than anyhting, but start simple. Floating around on here is a copy of the '89 FSM http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/SubaruEA82-ServiceManualPart2.zip Love this pdf as it is one of the few freinds you will find in the subaru repair battle.

I have had my set for 4 years or so now. I have really been impressed with them the battery offers good charge life, and all the tools have reasonable power. Its just recently that the batteries have begun to weaken and the flash light switch is getting touchy. But I used these tools every day for 3 years at my old job, and alot around the house during the remodel. I never had a durability issue. The impact driver is not an impact wrench. Its designed more for sheet metal screws or any "screwing" that requires controlled tourqe (its awesome for the right job).

To post images, its easiest to use a photo hosting/sharing service (i.e. PHOTOBUCKET) copy the image url and use the little yellow mountain button on the top of the message box and add the address in the scripted window or just use the lingo

It is possible, though I tried to blow it out with bursts of compressed air. It seemed like there was flow there. But it made no difference. Another thought on this thread... Since the stock EA81 nonturbo fuel tank wasnt intended for F.I., running your tank on less than a 1/4 at all times probably wont be good for the fuel pump either. There are no baffles in the tank, so hard corners, stops, hills, etc. may make the pump run dry for short spells. I would think youd notice the dry spell. Its a long shot but a thought.

The fuel pump only runs when the engine turns, on the SPFI . Check the screen on the fuel tank side of the pump make sure its not stuffed full of crap. Make sure there are no kinks or tight bends in any of the "new" plumbing you installed. I had to replace my return line on my SPFI swap with a larger one because I was running at 30+psi fuel pressure at idle. I replaced everything up to the nipple on the tank and that solved it. The origional return line on my car was smaller than 1/4"

Its just a vent hose.

Primary coil resistance: .84-1.02 ohms Secondary coil resistance: 8000-12000 ohms Insulation resistance between case and primary terminal: more than 10m ohms This is straight out of the 1989 FSM

What he's saying is that you have the same misconseption of how this system works as I did. It was because of "motors.alldata" it got me too. It doesnt use manifold vaccume at idle to set idle pressure and then at WOT when there is no vac. it opens up to max. (This is not how this FPR works) This device is designed to keep the system at a stable 21 psi. at all times. THERE SHOULD BE NO VACUUME from that line at idle, only under heavy acceleration which may be difficult to simulate in the shop. Hence why you are not getting a vac. signal there. Your fuel pressure is right on.

Not sure how I missed that, I have the FSM. I checked my fuel pressure long ago and I thought it was fine at 25-28 psi. Well, we may have just solved some of my mysteries including the intermittent rough idle problem. My fuel pressure is running right around 28-30 psi, if you goose it it drops a little. I just removed the return line and ran a hose to a gas can. Sure enough perfect 21 psi so that little return line is just too small.

If you go this route you must use a ported vaccume line off the front of the throttle body. Tap into the line to the egr valve. Better yet put a vaccume gauge on it first and work the throttle, there will be some vaccume at the line to the FPR. (there just isnt much) Dont use manifold vaccume as this will make the FPR function incorrectly.

I do not have a clear answer for you but I played with this once trying to solve a rough idle issue. This system doesnt work the way I assumed it would. The port for that vac. line is above the throttle plate so there will be no vaccume to the regulator at idle. I tried to get a vac. signal there and found very little, no matter what I did. So I concluded that it needed very little vaccume to function. This was a few months ago in the middle of my SPFI swap so my memory is a little fuzzy.

Does it look the same as your '89, or does it look like an EA81/Brat? Either the 84 wagon you have was some ones failed conversion project, its a pile of left over subaru crap of mixed years, or the car is actually an 85. To answer your question, as long as both cars are turbo, or both are naturally aspirated then yes it will fit. The gear ratio that should concern you is the final drive ratio. The turbo cars came with a 3.7, and the other manuals were 3.9's. The tranny MUST be matched to the rear end. The EA81 2wds could be equipped with a 5 speed 83-87 EA81 4spd d/r (brat/leone body style) 85-89 EA82 5spd d/r (loyal body style) http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=84798

Is this still the one side ping? I feel for you. You have been fighting this one for a while. Ok you are sure the t-belt is set correctly and under proper tension, right? So it has to be something else. Did you ever check the EGR valve function, vaccume system, and your plug gaps? You already saw what a shop can do, perhapse they regapped them incorrectly, hooked up the EGR circuit incorrectly, or screwed up a manifold gasket. Did they install new plugs when they did the HG? Have you thought about checking the fuel pressure?

Its such a "crap" shoot there. Alot of their stuff is the same as whats at walmart, just in an ulgier box. I have an angle grinder I bought 10 years ago (one of the old green ones) I have been relentless with that noisy heavy POS and I cant kill it. I have a ratchet set few years old, its been great... And they are not bad about taking stuff back here. But the list of things I have not been happy with is longer. If I were to add up all the losses on the "crap" shoot. I could have had much better stuff, just not as big a variety. The things I remeber being bad: HVLP airless paint sprayer (useless, absolutly useless) 5 speed little drill press (weak motor at best, but has lasted) Fuel injection pressure tester (broke first time) fancy tire inflator/gauge (worked great for 3 months) cordless power tool set (haha, yea, one of the few things I returned, next day) countless bits blades disks and pads (they suck!) exept the grinding wheels. rolling tool bag (3 months of daily use max) solar lights (well, I knew better) the list could go on and on! But still you have so much fun getting all those "amazing deals" I just cant stop myself.