ihscout54

Is this a recent change? Or has it always read in the "1/4" range? As long as it isnt fluctuating alot, and your heat feels nice and toasty, I wouldnt worry about it. But as noted above the only real way to know is with a laser thermo. Sorry off topic, but this must be because all the uneducated owners go this route when they start having over heating issues. When I did my spfi swap, Autozone's computer said that 180 was the O.E. spec temp, so thats what I used.

The EGR is located on th pass side rear of the manifold. (it looks like a steel mushroom) Once the car is warmed up, rev the engine a few times and watch the inside of the valve (the diaphram) for motion. If you do not get any motion you may have to run a new vac line to it so you can suck on to make sure it is working. Or you can just remove it for inspection as it probably needs a cleaning anyways. Pull the codes first.

Info on the codes can be found here in the USRM http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49918 Hopefully that will get you somewhere better to start with. One thought popped into my head. Sounds like the EGR valve might stuck open. Check it to make sure its functioning.

I just picked up one of those super cheapy Central Machine "reconditioned" wire feeds for $43 at the HF sidewalk sale. It seems to work ok, though I am used to my Lincoln. I really didnt need it but it was so cheap I couldnt resist. There is 2 things that bug me about it. The wire/arc is always hot, the trigger only controls the feed. Thats pretty lame. And there is no internal fan. :-\ Anyone else out there play with the HF welders? Are they pretty bad? Odds are good the only use it will get is the test I just gave it but, you never know.

I just got me a set of the bendix pads for my brat off rockauto. They are terribly noisy till they warm up. It sounds like your vibration is a warped rotor to me, especially if its Duralast, im guessing those are the, rarely turnable Autozone cheapies.

Even more incentive to dive right in and replace that cable, since it will be free anyways.

Definately, but my first was not great with a gun either. You guys know you cant belive everything you read on the web. For all you know, that Corvair Caramanos was talking about took 4 months of sanding and has two layers of clear coat, heck for that matter it could be pro sprayed with the best products available and they just said it was rolled to get clicks at their site. But it can be done, I have no doubt. I personally would never brush/roll a car, but I was lucky enough to have materials and tools to learn with. I never even considered using a roller. But not everyone has these things. Spraying for a first timer is tough. If you dont know what you are doing the car could look like stucco, and have plenty of runs needing lots of sanding as well. Ive painted a few: good and bad. No matter what if you spend the time it will look good (if anything at least at a distance). Since this is the first one you will do you will learn alot about it. Caramanos: good luck and have fun. Make it nice and show us how its done! http://www.paintforcars.com/aep_sunshineyellow.html

What if you just replaced the tranny with the FWD unit, pull the drive shaft, and leave the diff and axles alone. Theres no real reason to remove them is there? That way if you or someone else wants the re-4x4 it, you just need the trans and shaft. With some mods I bet you could make use of a 2x4 setup back there.

Just thought I'de throw this in... Rustoleum fades pretty fast, and scratches pretty easy. At least in my experiance. Though it is a very simple product to work with for a bit more you could have purchaced superior paints. I realize this is just an "expariment" but will be a shame to see your hard work dulling and fading in 8 months. If you have an extra hood, door, fender etc. laying around Ide use the Rustoleum on that for practice and when you get a real feel for it then you can consider using better products on the real car.

Its the pitching stopper. You already said what it does, I wouldnt drive very far with out it.

They barely block the grill, you'll be fine. They may screw up the beam pattern from your headlights though.

Its a good start. The pcv is probably needed, and its not too hard to check. Thouroughly inspect all vac. lines. Most of the issues Ive had were all leak related. Until you rule out vaccume system leaks its hard for our heads to go anywhere else. There are alot of possibilties, even a plugged up cat/exhaust. How wicked was that mud bog anyways?

Im sure you checked your oil, and you already said the coolant was fine. Dont get too worried yet, but I have seen a couple HG leaks/head issues that just cause the antifreeze to foam up, not even really over heat till the antifreeze is completely suds. They were AMC 232/258 inline 6's though. So yea there doesnt have to be a significant mixing of fluids. But for that matter you could have any number of compression related problems that you just dont notice at idle. If you are concerned do a compression test. But stick with the simple stuff first, unless you see steam from your tail pipe or excessive foam in the antifreeze after a short run or a lot of bubbling while running I wouldnt go that direction yet.

Be sure youre getting good fuel pressure. It could be a plugged up main jet or dirty carb internals. You might try to see if the bowl vent is working. While you are checking for vac leaks, spay a lil carb cleaner around the base of the carb to rule out the gaskets, and throttle shaft wear. (while idling) Aslo, check your ignition system. Disty cap rotor wires + plugs. Is there any other symptoms that might lead us in the right direction, like smoke from exhaust, foamy coolant etc?

First thing Ide check is if the choke is opeining when warm. Then you will need to search for vac leaks. The PCV is at the manifold end of the driver side large hose to the air cleaner. It has a tee at the top, more like an F one hose to the cleaner and one to the valve cover. You can check the vac advance, but I doubt it would cause that much trouble.

Thats all power BABY! The HD ground strap is probably 1/4 of its weight

The EA82's are non-interference/not zero tolerance engines.

The noises you are describing sound like a bearing, but the pics and "steering arm" comment look to me like the inner tie rod end and rack bellow. Are the close-ups, shots of the dusty boot just above the exhaust in the first photo?

Ive never used the powder, liquids, or balancing rings befor. But alot of commercial vehicle guys swear by these systems. The only thing I recall hearing that was a real problem with the powders & liquids was the air MUST be dry or it will clump up mix and stop balancing. Finding dry air might be a a little tougher for the average joe. But not as hard as nitrogen. http://www.imiproducts.com/equal/Videos/equal_512k.wmv

The turbo is a MPFI it will have different (2 holes per head) intake ports. The carbed motor will only have 1 hole per head. They will not work for what you want to do, unless you are really creative and want to create a carbed turbo setup, or just carb only. I would try to find a set of MPFI heads first.

GD's link http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/SubaruEA82-ServiceManualPart2.zip Good luck

Got em from Walmart havent noticed increased noises, my car is pretty loud anyways, but they seem Ok. They are chat tires but its tough to find the tires in 13's, and they were really cheap.

I'de pull the pump and check the screen, as noted above. A pump noise can also be caused by the vibration from the pump being loose or one of the lines being loose. Crawl under there and check it while its running. The continous run problem could be the relay is stuck, check with a volt meter. Also make sure your test connectors are not plugged together too.

I cant say about the '83 BRAT for sure but I have seen EA81 vehicles that were non-feedback. All you need to do if it was feedback is rejet the carb like a non-feedback, and yank the solenoids and plug the port they were hooked too. If your car has an O2 sensor in the cat, odds are good it is/was a feedback model. But who knows what was done to it over the years, alot of people dont understand how a system works and when they have a problem the pull and plug everything. The components you listed as being disconnected werent controlled but the feedback computer anyways. I would hook the EGR valve back up and get it back in the mix (but thats just me). If you have to pass emissions you will be sorting out what the previous guy did for a bit. If not just make sure there are no open lines or leaks.

Im not quite following you but maybe this helps, this is for your BRAT right? IIRC, there is a series of washers. I reused the old ones on the new struts they were in ok shape, when you compress the spring and dissasemble the strut assy. its easy to mix them up. They are the bearing, I cleaned and greased them and stacked everything in the order it came off. But its been a long time so its fuzzy. The dealer is the only place you will find the "bearing" or thrust washer part without the mount.