ihscout54

Yes, hook it to the weber. The advance on your distributor "stock" is hooked to a ported/tuned line from the carb. If you hook it to the manifold it will suck it to the max advance most of the time, and then let off when manifold vaccume is weakest at WOT. Kinda opposite from what you want. Set your timing to specs then find the port with little or no vaccume at idle (on the carb) that starts sucking when you tip the throttle. Then advance it to your liking. It sounds like your advance canister may be bad. Check it by hooking a vac line to it and sucking on it while watching the mechanism. If it doesnt move its shot and you need replace it. If it is bad you can run with out it unhook it cap the line to it and advance it as much as you can at idle befor it misses. It runs better with it working tho.

Ide check all the connectors and wiring, you could have a rodent problem, just alot of corrosion or bad ecm ground. The emissions failure could be due simply to a missing engine. You need to check the timing, and all vac lines. You might inspect the harness connection on the ECM under the dash too. for the codes try this link, a couple of the code descriptions you gave dont match the table for '88 and up at this link. http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/ Codes 11 & 13 are related to the crank angle sensor inside the distributor, inspect the wiring and connector to the disty and take a peak inside the disty at the metal disk with holes around the edge of it. You will have to remove the metal cover under the rotor to access these. If it appears soured or contaminated replace it. Or replace the whole disty. Code 14 according to this table is an injector output fault, for now take a look at the harness only, IM THINKING this might be from the crank angle sensor problem. Code 24 should relate to the Idle Air Control Valve, it is located on the front of the throttle body. It is the canister that has the 5/8'ish" black hose coming out of it which ties into the intake boot. Inspect its wirng and connector also. Code 34 EGR solenoid - there is 2 solenoids right by the thermostat housing the one you want is right on the manifold, IIRC. It will have a vac line going to the EGR valve. They are a common fault. good luck

No axles are different lenghts. If the ea82 is a non turbo 5 speed or 3 speed auto, the rear diff will be the same, the trannys will swap over too. Tires and rims obviously. You might be able to use alot of small things like bulbs, fuses, relays, switches dome light, hubs etc... But other than that not a whole lot else in the way of major stuff.

So put the intake w/weber from the EA82 on the EA81 car. It should flow a little better than the EA81 intake anyways, you will have to use the rad hose off the EA82 too. You may also have to rig something for the throttle cable but it will be worth it.

The rear brakes should swap. The front seats with some mods, the rear seat from ea82 will be too wide for ea81 use. You could also use the F.I. of the ea82 on the ea81

None of the old Subarus gearing is what I would call "tall highway gearing". The later units were taller, still they were pretty low considering the tiny tires. The lack of power required this though. There is very little difference in top gearing between the 5 spd and later 4spd. The 5 spd is more common and a better choice (IMO). The 4 speeds are known for sloppy shifting, leaks, bad synchros. I wanted to do the 5 spd when my Brat tranny went but what it comes down too is what you can find. After 2 months of searching I found a 4 spd S/R and downgraded cause I could not find anything better. If you do go 5 spd it has to come out of a sedan or wagon non turbo. Look at the chart (you need to be sure the front diff is a mate for the rear) do a search on it here there is alot of info about it, what to look for, and how to asseble the clutch for adaptation.

Welcome, and nice car. I dont know how rare the EA81 cars are around there. But here they are pretty rare. Ide hold out for a J-Yard fender, but sometimes that can be a long wait. Check this one out. Thats not a bad price if you cant wait. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FENDER-subaru-BRAT-82-primed-truck-1982-part-RH-RIGHT_W0QQitemZ370199461249QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item56319b7d81&_trksid=p4506.m20.l1116 The junkyard will be cheaper and you might find one in white, but its worth a look. Also check the classifieds section on this forum. You never know who might be down the street with a $10 fender.

You didnt mention if you flushed the fuel tank. Im not sure if this is your first couple of drives, or what, but if you are trying to run on 6 year old fuel... Not likely but a thought. If you did run on it, that new fuel filter is probably plugged. Also, you might check the inlet screen on the fuel pump for booggies and chunks. You did not give any details on the "idling problem". As stated befor you need to check your pcv system, and all the vac. hoses. You might check the MAF itself.

This came from the USRM. Thanks to numbchux. http://www.numbchuxconversions.com/home.htm

The Subaru 5 speed transmissions that will mate with the ea81, have nearly the same final gear ratios. Infact the later 4speed D/R has a taller 4th than the 5 speeds 5th. Do a search this is a common swap. But if you are looking for a taller cruising gear your not going to find it. the 5 speed is a better trans and offers a better spread of your gears though.

They claim to be 60/55watt, that should be in range of stock. Weather or not the stock wiring can handle it, it probably would, but I doubt they'll be much brighter without a rewiring. I bet the stock lamps would be a step or 2 brighter with better wiring. I was looking for simple plug n play cheapo fun.

Welcome to the board. Depending on what setup you have (if its even still stock) it may require re-wiring, running pulling wires, cutting holes in doors, and other misc fabs. My brat only had 1 speaker I replaced the radio in it with a "Stereo" type from a later car, and got some of those mini boxed speakers, and put 'em under the dash. Something like these. http://www.directdepot.net/popup_image.php?pID=14881 In my wagon I went aftermarket. Your probably not going to find the slanted console, you can try, but you might as well do an ebay/google search for the item listed below, or just buy it off that site. I bought mine off ebay IIRC. I used 5 1/4" 3 way speakers from Walmart in the front doors. And 6x9's in the back.

The did say they were euro lights. Those hella's are a big step up in price. I really dont need them I was just curious. The other thing is is there are about 30+ different sellers on ebay peddling these kits. Whats the difference between them, other than price, I wonder... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/7-H6024-6014-H4-LHT-EURO-CONVERSION-HEADLIGHTS-KIT_W0QQitemZ270321331385QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item3ef0682cb9&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

The mixture screw is on the front in the snout sticking out of base of the carb. There are 2 holes ontop eachother. The one you want is the bottom hole. Use a stubby flat head. There may be a pin through the holes that you might have to drive out first befor you can access the mixture screw. Ide chec for vac leaks first. The choke can hide alot. Im not sure what you mean but perhaps you simply need to up your idle speed.

Agreed they are calling them "HID" but the kit doesnt seem to include any ballasts. But the kit is cheap enough to try to play with but something tells me Ill be going from dull yucky yellow to dull get me a ticket blue.

Anyone tried something like these: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/80-81-82-83-84-85-86-87-Subaru-Standard-HEAD-LIGHTS_W0QQitemZ120410333290QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item1c0903e06a&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A1171%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/80-81-82-83-84-85-86-87-Subaru-Standard-HEAD-LIGHTS_W0QQitemZ120410333290QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item1c0903e06a&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A1171%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318 Considering the wiring remains the same I wonder if there would really be any improvement at all. Plus you never can tell with alot of the ebay crap, sometimes you get what you pay for. But these did look cool.

What he/she wants to know is: can a SPFI motor be a direct bolt in repl. for a n/a MPFI. And what is involved with said swap, I.E. wiring. The head gasket/s are toast and they must have access to a complete running SPFI (I.E. wagon, Loyal, etc). He thought this might be easier than doing the H.G's.)

The sensor is an interruptor only (or thats how it appears). I doubt its your problem but you could just try disconnecting the harness to the solenoid valve, and trace wires to the sensor. But for that matter it could be the timer too. Have you cycled the switches when this happens to see if it stops? Once it happens does it stay faulty till its cooled off? You should also check the ign resistor and its wiring. The only reason I note the switches is BEEN THERE DONE THAT. Ive made many a problem for myself, and I just want to make sure you dont chase for weeks after something simple that is not the cars fault

Do you have a wiring diagram? Im about to confuse everyone. I looked in my diagram, perhaps some of this might help. First the fuel pump appears fed by the voltage regulator. There does not appear to be a FPCU. There is a fuel cut off circuit also run into the voltage regulator, it shows a 5a inline fuse. There is a wire from the ign. resistor to the regulator, Im asuming its from the resistor (signal) because there is a line to the resistor from the ign. control unit. Perhaps there is a problem with this circut. Or as mentioned befor many posts ago, there is a problem with the ignition, or disty. There is a thermo switch (interruptor?) in the solinoid valve circuitry. It is run through a timer as well. The timer is fused but it appears the only thing shard by it and the regulator is the dash lighting. I didnt see where it was fused, but there is a temp on/off device. There is something in the voltage regulator's circuit that is sutting it off. Killing the fuel pump and the charge (and lighting up the dash). I doubt the new regulator would have gone intermittent on you. You seem sure those switches are correct. One switch for acc. one for on. And both on while running, or just one? How do they work?

You could raise and lower ride hights, on the 4wd's. There are adj. nuts on the struts, and one on the rear. These should be adj for off road use, as they throw off alignment reduce ride quality, wear parts etc.

After readin this whole thing, Im with TOM on this one. Did you check those switches? Why did you install the switches? Often times those cute little switches are only like 10-15a and thats pushin it. Thay are made for small lights and to run relays.

Yea, I guess if the motor is shatt. If its do-able someone here has done it. But I bet youll be workin out lotsa bugs for no gain. If thats the case, you'de have to pull it anyways, use the good block and swap your stuff onto it. I know little about the ea82's or XT's though, except what will work for the SPFI swap.

The harness will be different. The ECM's have different p/n's. The heads and intake manifold are different as well. Im sure there's more thats different too, fuel lines, brakets, etc. Not sure its worth it unless you have an extra car layin around.

Agreed. There are better products out there to gain similar results. Ive seen boat bottom resurface/paint used with interesting good results. Ive also heard rumors of high durability fire extuinguisher enamal used for similar ideas. If your looking to cover an old ugly off road beater, nothing beats Krylon cammo beige, and many other cheap spray cans offer similar dull colors and cheapo primers, none of which lasts. If its gunna get smashed and bush wacked alot not much in the way of paint will survive, anyways.

The right hand drive is extremely rare, Ive never seen one in 4wd. I really miss my Scouts . Finding parts does suck, but many of the parts cross to one of the big three just figuring out which one for your year... I dont think they were any worse finding parts for here than my ea81's.