ihscout54

If the pedal is just low but firm and a pump or 2 brings it up... That sure sounds like rear adjustments. If the pedal is spongy with vague feeling stopping power then Ide say air.

Tom pretty mach has this covered but I want to add that it sounds to me like improperly adjusted rear brakes. They arent self adjusting and must be adjusted with a spoon or screw driver from time to time. Its a bit of a hassle on these cars but I suggest a rear drum inspection. Those wheel cylinders seem to get leaky pretty quickly, most of the time they dont introduce air into the system but they could.

If your getting some sort of flow of fuel then it would be enough to make the car run in some way. Skishop beet me to the cut off solenoid and its a good possibility. Stuck float inlet clogg etc. follow his tests.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/59157-asv-system-elimination/ I think I get what your asking so I think the answer is yes. If you have an ASV system exhaust leak or whatever, you could use a quarter or some means of blocking the ports on the manifold/adapters and reinstall, leaving the tubes and such inplace. Ide also recomend disabling the vaccum part of the system too. But why? Emissions testing?

Some cars have a priming cycle, many dont. Either way in stock form the pump is meant to run when there is a tach pulse. So the answer to you question would be both during crank and engine running.

You seem savvy, and I have no idea just where your at with your car. Ill share my thoughts on this anyways; accel pump, power valve, small vac leak. Ide start with a check for leaks in ported vacuum circuits. The Vacuum advance would be a double whammy if the diaphragm is ruptured. If its slight, you could try to soothe this condition with a richer idle and or more timing advance. Does it disappear with the low speed port plugged? There are a few things I want to add and update to my original thread. I just dont have the time right now. I will briefly touch on a fix for this. I have been running a setup on my car that has replaced these old wax pellet type valves. Been strong for about 8 months. My cold starts and drive ability are fuel injection-esc. For your issue the simplest solution would be to find a working valve. It doesnt have to be the exact one, just close. Ideally, it would fit the hole Memory of the setup is fuzzy and I dont have time for pix or wiring digrams right now but Ill give you a description and hope it gives inspiration. What we have here is a temp switch (90 F) a 5 pin relay and a vacuum solenoid. The switches came in a pack of 5 for like 4 bux off ebay, and the one I installed has really held up great. I have 2 solenoids In use, one for the stove pipe control and one for the thermo valve that controls the VCV. You could easily adapt this to replace your "Thermo Vacuum Valve II" and regain a close proper choke function, OR replace all of the thermo valves. The 2 solenoids I used were old ones I had in a box. The one in the above pic is from a Toyota. In your case pretty much any one will do. It doesnt have to be the vented type, if its only going to be for your choke. You need your solenoid to close once warm or be open only when cold. Yes sounds wacky but its not. You can use the old solenoids from your car or go to the j-yard. remember tho youll have to solve the N/O N/C riddle. Example: youre solenoid Is normally closed. One wire for it would go to an ignition hot, the other to the thermo switch thats controlling ground. That switch is normally closed as well and opens at 100F. So the solenoid is on/open with the IGN and then closes when the thermo switch opens at 100 degrees. The solenoids and switches can be found in both configurations so.... I hope you get the idea. IIRC my temp switch closes at 90 degrees triggering the relays coil ground (you may not even need the relay) energizing one solenoid, and shutting off the other. On my setup one solenoid Is normally open and one normally closed. Thats why I used a 5 pin relay it allows me to use only one thermo switch. The switch is attached to the intake manifold close to the block with some bailing wire. Ive not bothered updating this thread with this trick since I figured no one would be interested In such a semi-complex solution for gizmos they could possibly live without. If anyone can wrap their heads around all of this and has a desire for using it Im not opposed to sharing more on how Ive done this.

Welcome neighbor. What color is your car, Ill keep my eyes out for it! Only treasure in Paulden Im aware of is your car, what sort of treasures are you hunting?

These things are one of a kind gems. You wont easily find another one. To buy a new similar unit will run you $30k+. Heck even a decent modern used car will run you over $10k. Cheapo exhausts can be found online for well under 200 shipped. They vary a bit depending on which emissions system you have. Bearings are affordable and an annoying project, but totally doable. Before scrapping you need to put this car in the classified section on this board. About 3-8 months after getting rid of it you will reget it. I miss all of my "babies" Ive had to let go. In my eyes exhaust, bearings and some undercoating is nothing... keep the car.

I hear you, and feel your pain! I do not rebuild the Hitatchi carbs. Ive been through all of this years ago. Bummer is there is no easy or cheap solution to getting rid of them. http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUBARU-GENUINE-WEBER-CARBURETOR-32-36-DGEV-ELEC-CHOKE-1800-1600-EA81-EA71-WK730-/131353509954?hash=item1e95478042:g:m5gAAOSwcL5XMdYQ&vxp=mtr If your in a bind consider this option, Im sure you have seen it. The unit looks to be a knock off, Ide message them and ensure the jetting is actually close for our cars. If so you (might) be rollin' right out of the box. Maybe even runin' well. Ive bid on used Webers and its pretty competitive. Unless you do get ahold of a deal on a complete set you could end up spending more than you are hoping too for used stuff. Not to mention the likelyhood of the used headaches. Things like; time searching and bidding, getting a wrong part etc. or even unding up with the dreaded $100 box of total junk. This stuff isnt always easy to source locally, so if you need your car keep in mind this will be time consuming. Some people get lucky on used webers, but not me. Ive been watching that kit in the link for years and it seems a short time ago they were $249 obo. Maybe they will take an offer of $255. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/store/product/55-redline-weber-3236-carb-upgrade-kit-dgev-electric-choke-ea81-or-ea71-pn-k730/ This is another option worth looking at. I hope someone will hook you up with what you need on this board.

1: If you dont have this in ur kit, heres what you need https://www.amazon.com/Beck-Arnley-039-6287-Pump-Install/dp/B000CAZ40E 2: I may have mixed up push rods befor. I think its simply good practice to keep those components in order as they were removed. Lifters to cam, rods to lifters/rockers etc. since they are all being reused, they have worn in together a certain way. If your not replacing the cam or lifters, IMO having them in order is probably more important. If all the rods and lifters passed your inspection, the push rods can go back in with the order of your choosing. What choice do you have?

Some day I want to finish a rebuild on one of the extras i have. All of them are solid lifter engines (no late model automatics). I probably just need to admit defeat a d buy a whole engine from CCR. The 2 extra cams I have are junk. I have not opened up the runner I took out of the BRAT that had low oil pressure at idle.

Ide like to join this thread and not jack: Can the EA81 cams be sourced new or even reman? Ive got a coulple that are pitted, ive bever found a source for them.

Ive never figured ot if this is caused by the condition of the hub/axle splines, an issue with the conical washer/seat, lock washer or an installation issue. When it starts the splines seem to get "thinned". The first time it happened to me it was on a recent purchase. I tightened and many months later it returned. Retourqed and then a couple months later I replaced the hub on that side and it never happened again. The splines were no longer a tight fit. Oddly enough the axle splines seem unaffected. Ive had one completely stripped out and reused the axle with a different hub.

In my experiance, once this happens the hub is toast. Ive had it happen a couple times now. I try to keep extra hubs in stock but they arent always easy to find and many times when Im at the j-yard I dont have my giant sockets with me.

The link you posted shows how simple cat replacement is with your system. Aftermarket converters arent known for their life span anyways. Your previous test numbers were lower all around, so maybe it was on there and working. Of corse that test does not show results for idle. Could that alone be the problem? Well since you are going to replace it I hope so.

Can you try the test with the rpms elevated, say 2k and fully warmed up? If your cat is not part of the Y then you should test at the inlet in front and outlet in back. Not sure how accurate you can get with such a test. Tho the outlet is suppoed to be hotter when its working. if its the same in/out its not working and if its cooler at the outlet its plugged up. Better google that to confirm. Any emissions issue such as a rich/lean condition or excessive consumption of any fluid will kill the cat. If its plugged up then you have other tests to do. Since the only thing on the test that was a fail is high hydrocarbons at idle I still think your problem lies elsewhere. Could this problem have killed the cat?

Emissions testing varies so much from place to place and by year of the vehicle. Its been years since ive had to pass one but I know they can be a PITA. In this situation tho (especially since the car is all stock and fuel injected) the test did exactly what it was meant to do and uncovered a problem which is causing waisted fuel and unneeded pollution. Fingers crossed; u have a dirty air filter, cracked vacuum line or a loose hose clamp.

Dave, I think the car has a problem that needs fixed. Its not a matter of tweeking to sneak it past or tricking to get through. The wide band could possibly be of some help, but expensive and likely not needed. Those limits they set are surprisingly forgiving and the car is way over. I bet u have a little miss thats spitting unburnt fuel at idle. There may be no noticeable roughness (especially at 1000 rpm) and it might take some real time at the tailpipe listening to hear it. We already know a 1000 rpm idle is outa spec. I sorta doubt its the cat, at least at this point. The only way it would be the EGR is if its not closing completely or leaking in some way creating a vacuum leak. CTS - maybe

Looks like a rich and high idle condition. Was the car completely warmed up for the test? Age of the O2S? Your a subavet so you know the ropes... Basics first, is there any missing at idle? Check for any vacuum leaks, including the pcv system. If its warmed up I wonder if its falling out of closed loop for the idle part of the test. Start with the vac system and missfire diag. Since your readings are 2.5x the limit and the idle is out of spec, theres a good chance you could have a leak causing a miss.

Aside from the archaic lame drive-ability and lack of available service parts, they have some annoying reliability issues. The linkage design wears poorly and gets very sloppy, the synchros 2-3 are often worn (grind), input shaft bearing failures, sloppy front diffs, etc.

Have you tried to swap pulleys yet?

Im going to assume by "gauge" you are refurring to the sender. The senders should be interchangeable between EA81/82's. So you could find a single terminal sender and install it, or figure out which terminal on the sender is for the gauge. The 2 terminal senders were for feedback cars one terminal was for the gauge the other for the ecm. Without looking up the info I could not tell you which is which. So in other words might have to experiment with terminals.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1065522 Came across these literally on Thursday, and wondered if Bantum was a member.

Any EA81/71 disty will fit. I recomend the 82+ nippondenso (2wd) unit, since it is much higher quality than the hitachi. 81 and older units are odd and have external modules. Hitachi units I believe started the integral modules in 81. If your shopping online make sure the unit you get is for the EA81 not the EA82. To be safe Ide make sure fitment is for 82-84 model years. Im assuming you have tested the coil, as its a more common failure. The module can be replaced inside the disty, Ive seen them cheap on ebay in the past. You probably have a decent ammount of hitachi shaft play making it a wasite to just throw a module in it.

Just use the ac delco part #s in those links.