ihscout54

I wouldnt sweat one lil puff on an old car being floored. Maybe you should have some one work the throttle while you watch the tail pipe. Are you using any oil? Check your plugs too, see how they look. I'de need more proof then said "puff" befor I'de start worring about rings.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=96682 Have fun. The power steering will be tricky, by '83 i think all the ea81 heads had holes in them for power steering bracketry.

1981 has the externally regulated unit, the 1982 is internal. If you are just reading the gauge you need to put a meter on it. Ide take the alternator to a parts store and have it tested.

+1 on vac leaks. Another thought if its only when the engine is hot, or a while after beng run, it might be a flooding/percolating issue the engine is off and hot it can heat the fuel and force it into the engine. Try giving the engine just a little throttle while starting to put some extra air into the mix, but just a little or the accel pump will add to the problem. This issue has to do with fuels perhaps the summer blends there? I solved this on an old truck of mine with a phenolic spacer. Though that carb was poorly vented. Just a thought

Genuine Subaru only. The aftermarket units do not last. Ive been through several.

After the SPFI swap on my BRAT Im getting about 23-24, with the hitachi I was getting right around the same 21-24. All city driving.

The A/C is controlled by the blower fan switch. It doesnt turn on till the fan is turned on. (at least thats how it is on mine)

I set mine to A/C or bi level and keep the thermo on cold. Just leave the fan off and everything is off.

Sounds like EA82. There are a couple different style systems, but from the few Ive seen as long as it is the inner belt it doesnt drive anything else, you can just cut the belt off. Replacing the belts isnt that difficult or expensive though. You could do it after work or on a luch break beginner or not. Odds are good the other belt is soon to follow.

Very decent. Im glad to see it kinda worked out for you.

Make sure the bottom is nice and machined, I used a block w/fine grit sand paper and rubbed the adaptor on it. Both sides of the adaptor needed done befor installation. As mine was crappy out of the pack. Could be the hose clamp/hose there. Some adaptors have a plug there in them it may need re-teflonned or tightend. I use a tiny bead of water pump sealnt on both sides of the gasket just around the port hole, never had any problems. I also did not use the gaskets suppled (they seemed crappy). If you do decide to plug it, there is flow at both sides of the hose so both need capped. Just fix the leak. Good luck.

Sounds like you might have an oil light switch (on/off). As grossgary said you might have the wrong unit. You need to have a sender for the gauge not the switch for the light.

Leave the disty cap wired till you are ready to swap the wires, dont mix up the wires. Make sure to put the new disty in the way the old one came out. Mark a spot where the rotor was pointing and make sure the new rotor points at it. Put the body in a similar position as the old one. If you are off a tooth it doesnt take long to figure it out. Start it up, if all is well you could leave it and see if you like it there. Turning the disty body clockwise will advance the timing. While running "advance" it very slowly until you get a miss at idle, then back it off a bit till it smoothes out. If it pings while driving pull over and back it off a hair, if it still does it back it off some more... A cheap timing light might be cheaper then having a shop set your timing.

I feel you though. I still see one of my old scouts around town from time to time, makes me jealous. Ive always wanted to find my dads old '85 red hatch. Ugly as sin but was a fantastic little car. We sold it back in '98 for $600, one day it will pop up on C.L. needing a trans for $200 or something so I do understand you. If your looking to get into an older Subaru, they are really rare here in L.V. but they are out there. Give the carfax a shot Im curious.

That car is long gone, it may have been a year ago, it was not there last time I was there. I was sad to see it there as it was pretty straight. The plates are required by law to be removed/returned, that will not help you. But if you kept your paperwork on it you could carfax it, that car could be in Antarctica for all we know. There is a guy here in town whos been trying to sell his brats on C.L. if your interested let me know. Ive got his e-mail.

There was one out at Nevada PAP matching that description about 6 months ago. Not sure about the year but it had the carter 1bbl carb and a B-bar. Not many of these cars here in L.V.

Need more info... The smoke is coming out of the exhaust pipe, correct? (you never know)What color is the smoke? Does the clutch work correctly (can it take off and drive?)

Something about this pic just didnt sit right with me, so I decided to enhance it a little. Little brightness & contrast action, removed all government filters and... Well... Somethings up in Trout Creek.

If it is an '84 (ea81) then no, very little will be interchangeable. If it is an '85 (ea82) then yes it would be a fair parts car. There will be some differences Carb Vs. F.I. auto vs. manual etc. Is the body like yours?

Pull the PCV line and plug it. But it sounds like you might need to plan on engine work. Those vehicles are rare and hard to get parts for. If it is blowing smoke blue/white out the tail pipe and using that much oil then it will not be a simple gasket repair. If you are concerned about your property collecting vehicles and you are not prepared to complete the extensive service it very well may need then skip it. Otherwise it will haunt you till you can unload it. Trust me I know. I have a Scout with a bad tranny 300 miles away on my parents property. Been there 5 years, and one day I will get to it...

A lil search goes a long way... Code check: care of USRM http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49918 This was in there too looked like some reading you might enjoy. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=79393

4 flashes = Automatic California model computer. Pg 105 of the manual I gave you the link too (its for '88 model year though.) The CEL is off right?

It may need to be cleaned they sell products for that purpose. Here is a link to the Factory Service Manual. Pages 12-14 (N/A), and 91-92 (turbo specs) cover the MAF testing procedures. You will need a multimeter to complete the tests. http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/SubaruEA82-ServiceManualPart2.zip

EA82's are 1.8l

No codes present? Check the simple stuff first. Your cap + rotor, plug wires, and timing could cause it. I dont know if the turbo units have the same test connector setup as the SPFI, but if it is you want to make sure that they are unplugged. Fuel filter, fuel pump/pressure, throttle position sensor output.