ihscout54

Nice car, and I bet it was cheap too. Looks like it straightend out ok, not perfect, but plenty good enough to be a decent looking working class unit. You did a better job on that than most body shops here would. Gotta love old japi sheet metal.

I saw an ea81 wagon at the junkyard once with an odometer reading in the 500k's. I was gunna take the dash just for the odo. reading. It may have been on the tenth engine for all I know. I only checked because I was curious as to why it was so rough.

So you didnt stay late enough to catch a glimpse of the Ghost Lights. Maybe next time.

Go down to the hardware store and buy some brass fittings/adaptors you will prolly need a 5/16 to 1/2 male and 3/8 to 1/2 female, or something like that. You can play with the combos while you are there. Get a short piece of 5/16 hose and a couple hose clamps. You will be leak and worry free. Did the ford pump have an internal screen in it?

It feels good to be back on the road. Especially when you did it yourself.

Oops I may have confused you here. The rotor will need to point to where the no. 1 wire post was/is on the disty cap. Not at the no. 1 spark plug. You kinda have to eyeball it.

The vacume advance canister would not cause the car to die. It probably has not woked for a long time. Are you sure the wires were swaped. If they were swaped the car could not have been running well at all. Flywheel 3 4 1 2 Radiator/front Disty --1 3 c 4 -- 2 It sounds like no. 1 cyl may not have been at TDC. It must be for that to work.

That makes more sense, your car does not run lean. What stage were the CO levels high? Just idle? acceleration or? Some other thoughts for you: Engine timing + condition of timing advance mechansims. Internal leaks into the carb. The O2 sensor + solenoids.

First the exhaust leak you have may simply be making the situation seem worse than it is. Depending on your set up there are alot of resons for a rich condition. You notice the smell most at a higher speed under deceleration (Im assuming due to the leak). Check to insure your air filter is good, while you are there check to see if your choke moves freely. You will also have to check the choke after the car is warm to ensure it does open fully. If you have a feedback model something in the system may not be functioning as it should O2 sensor one of the solenoids etc... A slight rich condition in certain fases is not uncommon for a carbed vehicle and a slight smell from time to time may not be too big a deal. (like when cold) But if it is overpowering in the cab you WILL need to repair the exhaust leak.

I hate crash test videos, they just make my hair stand up.

After priming it your eyebrows will be in the cab turning the key, so you will probably have to use a razor or some tweezers on your eyebrows. I once tried to check my timing with a light while someone else was cranking, and the light was so dimm and flashes spaced so far appart it really didnt help me much. But it was on a V8 not a 4 so...

I used to work for a self storage company. One afternoon I had stopped in at one of the really ghetto properties. I barely walked in the front door when a young girl came whipping into the parking lot in a U-HAUL truck. Cut the turn wrong and jammed it right into the back corner of my truck. I ended up havingto move the U-HAUL off my truck. She had purchased the insurance. The damage was very similar to yours. Long story short, got a quote from a body shop for $800. Took about 3 weeks to get the check, which was made out to me. A little hammering, bondo and a j-yard tail light. My total cost around $50.

Only when warm? Do you keep the rpms pretty high to keep it running? If you think it is flooding, check to see if it is, but it sounds more like good old fashoned vacuume leak/leaks. See if the carb is loose at the base or in the middle of the carb. You can check the PCV by plugging it temporarily. I do not know the EA82's but the air box alone should'nt be enough to prevent the car from idling. Though it is part of the vacuume system, and yes sealed is best. You could screw with idle speed and mixture but you probably should be checking for vacuume leaks first if you can keep it running.

Because the only thing that gives you anything is pooring fuel into it I'de say perhaps you need to try a bit more carb cleaner/gas down the carb. It sounds like youre getting fuel but the carb could be plugged up. The banging you heard may just of been backfiring as it starved for fuel. Even if you did jump timing I would think you could still get it started might have to screw with the disty but some sign of life should exist. You could try to eyeball the rotor to point at the no. 1 cyl. and find tdc and see where the marks on the flywheel are at... Another thought when you crank it does it sound normal or is it fast then slow or kicking back?

Its just cranking on and on, no kick or backfire just turning correct? The rust and filth in the pre-pump filter is not abnormal, you are sure you are getting a consistant spark? Does the tach bounce while cranking? Befor you blow money on a weber I'de confirm the carb to be the issue. Honestly even if you removed it and spayed some carb cleaner down the hole youde get some sign of life at least a backfire a kick something, yet you are getting nothing. An internal timing issue is possible you could try to check it. I'de try some carb cleaner sprays befor I'de look too far. A drip of gas down the throat may have not been enough when cold or way too much. Hold the throttle open and spay in there. Also could the banging you heard have been exhaust related?

Even if you have plenty of pedal and no noises etc, just "chatter". Be it contamination, failing pilot bearing, flywheel issues, or what ever is causing your chatter. Buy a quality kit and replace everything. Check all your mounts while your at it. This may save you from having to pull it all apart again in a year.

They both have the same final drive ratios, and similar high gear ratios. I bet you are also running close to the same size tires on both cars. The '83 and up 4spd D/R has a slightly taller 4th than the 5 spds 5th gear. So this may not really be a factor in your decision. The EA82 might be a little more comfortable and have a little more room for your stuff.

Sounds like a crank thrust issue. Any engine knocks/noises? did you check the timing? There is something in the USRM http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=54 about the pulley and repairing it. I did not find it but it is in there. If you have a bearing problem or a thrust issue it will need internal service. Did he preform a compression test, or did he just throw the low compression out there? One of the EA82 pros. will probably chime in if this is common, but this will give you some ideas for a search of the board.

Rust must be a very big issue where you are at? Fix the leaking M/C first. Get a small wire brush and hit it hard, clean it well with a strong deagreaser and rinse well. There are lots of in store products to prime with, then just coat it with paint. If you are worried about overspray and even getting spray in there, buy something in a can and sluff it on with a 1/2" chip brush or something. I wouldnt waiste a terrible ammount of money on super removers.

It does sound like a good way waiste a H.G. or worse, but no real telling till you figure out why its overheating resolve it and run it. I wouldnt run my car with out a t-stat.

Its the crankshaft o-ring. Subaru part # 413967100 - google it there's stuff out there. I think Beck-Arnley Part # 0523199 is the same thing. But you will have to make sure.

I bought one (autozone) once it ended up not being the right one, so I took it back after getting a Luk clutch for about $35 more from a local import specialty place. The difference in quality was pretty big. If you drive your car a little here and there it would probably be fine, but I vowed never to buy another. Life-time warrenty or not. Though I never used it it looked real cheap next to that Luk set. Even the pilot looked cheap.

Ive had 5 IH's: 4 scouts 1 truck, its been years since I sold them, all but one, and its a basket case sitting in another state. I wish I still had all of them but things in life change money gets tight and gas breaks $3.50 a gallon. Then one day no scouts. Subaru's fill the void for now. A scout is the only thing I'de give up my brat for.

Thats a possibility but thats alot of stretch, there would have to be more going on than just that I'de think. But its worth a try.

Honestly, I doubt that the texture of the paint will matter but if it was me I'de keep the bead lip smoothe. I have seen some pretty rusty rims make a seal befor. But why risk it, its not that hard to just not paint the bead area.