ihscout54

So you have adjusted it till the t.o. bearing drags and it still wont fully release? Then you have a problem beyond adjustment. Bent fork improper components etc... You might pop that pedel out and take a look at the linkage wear. Do you have the pn. # for the clutch kit you used? You did use a kit and replace all components correct?

You didnt move your fuel pump under the hood did you? V-lock isnt all that common w/electric fuel pumps. Are you sure its vapor locking and not a clogged filter sick pump etc... +1 on fuel composition, who knows what they are using down there.

Out of threads towards the cable right? (tightening it) Sounds like you know what you are doing. Are you sure the flywheel is in spec? also this shouldnt apply here but... I went through this on my brat when I swapped the D/R for a S/R. There are a few styles of clutch out there and one of them has almost 1/4" difference in spacing somewhere in the P.P. I had to use a different clutch. Specs call for 1/2" play in the pedal, if your pedal is badly worn to a nice slot or the cable attatchment is screwed up you may be loosing alot of clutch pedal there.

Mine came out of a knock off Manx v.w. dune buggy. I got it at a garage sale. I cut it down 2 inches so it would still clear my bubble topper, and welded 2 kickers on to it. My total cost was less than $50 after paint. Be creative, and watch C.L. If you dont weld there should be someone near you that can do a simple one reasonably.

It was cheaper to buy that car for the demo than to rent a back hoe. But think about it, your car was a u-tube celebrity. Which means all you have to do now is find a Jesus shape in one of those dents and it is worth $52,125.03 on EBAY. Congrats on the new Subaru.

"Ce Faci" From Cluj huh? My wife is from Cluj. She still has family there... Deva I think? Have you checked the coil's resistance? Though they usually just die, its a thought. It sounds like your CAS is working but for somereason the coil still doesnt want to give spark. As NARU said it must be grounded. The whole bracket needs to be bolted tightly and its mounting should be clean and rust free. Also check the wire harness from the disty and its plug, and the same for everything on the coil. It sounds like a connection problem, especially since you just completed major service.

You didnt mention if you have run the car. If the carb is empty it wont squirt any fuel. There is a sight glass on the side of the carb, but not in an easy to see spot. If the accel. pump isnt working you should have difficulty with cold starting and hesitation off idle. If the accel pump is bad then you might as well rebuild the carb. But they are a pita for the beginner. The weber is a step up but it just depends on what you want to spend. If you are going to buy a rebuilt hitachi, dont. Its a waiste of time and money.

Im gunna stick a gauge on it, maybe tomarrow...

You wont pass with any emissions lamps lit. So you will need to remidy that. Are you sure its a 1bbl? I bet its a hitachi 2bbl the kinda look like a 1bbl on the surface. The Carter 1bbl are uncommon. You will need to check for all the usual suspects Vac leaks timing etc, it does sound like it may need carb help as well. C.A. Emissions is a joke, you cant get a P.O. box in Carson City or something?

Is he saying it is too lean? The sensor may very well be setting the light. But you might have other issues than just the o2 sensor here. If its not real rusty dropping the exhaust speeds things up. Its a little tight under there, but they arent impossible to get too. You may want to rent the proper tool as it makes it easier and reduces chances of breaking the sensor, especially if the factory heat sheild is inplace. Its a socket w/slot cut out for the wire/s. Odds are good it will be seized in there and you will need to soak it in P.B. for a night first, and you may have to chase the threads. Its been a long time for me though and the last time I did it I had the exhaust out. One more tip... If you can find a denso or NGK buy it. They fit better than the bosch ones. The NGK sensor runs bout $44.00 befor tax.

Im sorry to hear about your troubles, I as well have been stung by this economic crap. But this will not last forever and you may not find another car like that one later on after times are better. If you dont owe money for it and you love it, then let it sit. Think about it. If times are tough for all of us that leaves few able to buy toy/fixup cars. Which means if you find a buyer, you may not get what the car is worth. Ive really been thinking about selling my Wagon, but honestly, for the little I will get at this point it isnt worth the loss of my ugly orange yard deco. I wonder how many of us here on USMB are really hit by these times. Laid off foreclosure etc...

Its been a while since I did a compression test, Ive been meaning to do one, and it is a possibility I have an internal issue. I was just hoping one of these boys/girls who have been through the SPFI swap might have had this problem, and found the solution. I did notice backing off the timing smoothed it out a bit, but the miss is still there. But it really impacts acceleration.

Accel was all they had huh? Ide keep the stock one. Did you check the harness to the disty? And the plug? It may flash a code, in that FSM pdf, link I left you is the procedure and explination of how to interprate codes.

You can check the coil with a meter. Download the FSM if you havent it has the resistance values and check procedure in it.http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/SubaruEA82-ServiceManualPart2.zip Also befor you remove it, make sure you have power to it. Aslo check the bracket ground, and the spark ground. Make sure the plug to the distributor is connected and clean and the wires too.

Thats an easy one to test. If the inlet side is hot, and the outlet side is quite a bit cooler its plugged up.

Is the car running at operating temp? If the car isnt heating up the heater wont either. Do you know what temp thermostat you are running?

Ive worked out pretty much everything on my spfi swap on to my ea81, but I just cant seem to get my idle as smoothe as I had expected. It idles down around 700-800 rpm The timing fluctuates between 20-22 deg. due to the miss. After some searching I found some old posts with similar complaints, one from G.D. ended with him blaming engine internals. It made me start thinking back when I first got the car the idle quality was never consistant no matter what. I cant remember wheather I just got used to it or resolved it completely but it was smoother but also higher than it is now. Ive checked over everything, perhaps I need to readjust my valves, hasnt been that long but maybe I didnt get it right. its kinda starting to tick me off. G.D. Did the rebuild solve this on yours? Or did you find a resolutiion?

If you are going to keep your current induction setup, you will want to have it. But yes it will start and drive with out it.

If emissions is a concern for you that will not be an option.

There were definately changes through the years, but as far as weather it matters for a swap???. According to Oriley's website they say 83-87 but I dont trust them explicitly. I have one out of my '82 layin around but Oriley says its not interchangeable. Do you have a pic of the whole thing? I dont remember mine having that type of connection, I think it has pins.

Oh B.T.W the car at the yard had squeezy clamps on the ruber return line between the body and the tank. So Im still thinking it isnt realy needed to put the high psi stuff there.

Well just got back from the JY and the pump there was 3.5 ohms soo yea normal. It leaked though so I left it. The only thing I noticed was that this car had a pressure dampener in right after the pump and by the injector like G.D's manual showes. But the car I got my pump off of did not have this dampener right after the pump. Is this needed? Ill check the relay

The top is probably a vital part of the structural integrity of that car. You might end up with automatic opening doors set to open going over every speed bump.

Should there be any resistance between the body and the pump hot? I will definately adv. my timing.

Pull the pump and check the suction side. I think the screen is on the pump. You might use a couple small bursts of compressed air through the line and blast the clog out or back into the tank (if its on the tank side).