ihscout54

No voltage loss between terminals. But the plug on the pump shows 3.9 ohms between hot and ground.

Congrats on the score, its hard to knock any driveable car under $500... Especially a brat.

Thanks for the help boys/ possible girls? You never know Gruff: I looked at a few of your old posts from when you were going through the swap. A real shame your F.I. setup didnt work out for you it sounds like you did a beautiful job. I have no doubt that the E.J. swap wil be the same. I Also wished I could have jumped on the parts befor you sold em'. That return line seems smaller than 1/4", and thats why I was afraid to mess with it, I wasnt happy with the attchment of my return line under the hood because the line seems a little smaller than the I.D. of the hose. I also thought there was probably only a few PSI in the return line anyways. I might just put a gauge on it to see for fun. But its as much trouble as just pullin the line and replacing it so... there is a few things I am not satisfyed with yet. The pump noise is a little dorky, and the relay getting hot... Probably no biggy but kinda bugs me. I need to get a different CTS work out a hold down for the filter and source some exhaust manifold flanges, I just couldnt find them and I had to get her back together. I expected it to leak.

No rust, nice A-bar, lifted... Its even still got the seats in the bed. Very nice.

On my spfi swap the single white wire w/grey jacket was the o2 wire.

I made a tool out of a long 1/4" bolt 2 nuts and some 5/16"? fuel hose. Use a nylon lock nun on the end and tighten the inner nut and expand the rubber... I left the wrench in place to tighten and tug.

I know they have to be oiled so I have no choice just curiuos. The fuel pump isnt very loud outsude just in the driver seat (of corse). I might just run it for a bit and see what happens. Any one mess with those lines between the tank and the body?

Imagine what it must smell like in there! I replaced the carpet in my wagon because it was trashed, there was a soda cup and stra perminantly fused to the floor in the back which was coverd by a rug. The back seat had been stripped to its metal frame. While replacing the carpet in my wagon I found 3 dogs worth of hair cigarette packs from the 1980's, recipts, $15.00 worth of change pens etc... When you see something like this it makes you wonder what could have gone on in a 27 year old car to bring it to such condition.

I wanted to add a couple of notes for future searchers. I have A/C I had to tap in the A/C signal blue wire to the compressor hot wire. Also if you have A/C it is very difficult to install the fuse box and coil where G.D's manual shows because of the hoses from the compressor. I put a fuseable link box next to the battery and ran my power from there and installed the coil on the fender just above the jack holder. I had to make a long coil wire to reach.

This is kinda a continuation of my previous thread. Well my Spfi setup is now complete and running pretty well, but of corse I have a couple bugs. The fuel pump is pretty noisy in the cab also the relay gets a bit hot, may just be the way it is but I thought I'de ask. There is a slight bog/hesitaion when floored hard... The idle seems a little high as well 850ish - no vac leaks. But again this might be normal. Honestly runs smoother, but a little doggier than the Holley. Perhaps I need to adjust the tps? Timing is at 20 deg... and the disty slot is almost maxed out to the right, is this normal for this swap or am I off? I used one of those gay stubby cone filters it did not say on the pkg if it is or needs to be oiled Im sure it does but im concerned about the MAF element as it is pretty close to the filter. Is this really an issue? The rubber lines from the body to the tank I did not change. The suction side of the pump probably doesnt matter but the return side might need to be FI grade hose, anyone ever changed these?

Check for vacuum leaks... Especially the intake manifold gasket on that side. You might also check the egr valve/system function too. Ide also recheck my plug gap and plug wires.

You are sure the choke is not closing? Sounds to me like it might be an accelerator pump. You might try pushin' on the accel. pump lever a few times and make sure you have fuel squirting as it should. Is it electric choke?

After it dies pull the top of the carb off, and check to see if there is fuel in the bowl. I would also pull the idle jet (brass screws on the front and rear facing sides of the float bowl) and clean them out too. Especially the front one. They may appear to be a solid unit but they are 2 pieces. Separate them to clean it.

My setup fit and functioned great. Choke worked like a dream. It was the throttle plate wear/shaft rebush that is making it impossible to set the idle. Infact the car runs terrific it just wont idle less than 1100 rpm. If you are still interested in getting it working I even had the air cleaner worked out nicely. Ive got several of these. A couple feedback units and non. Anyways I really wanted FI couldnt find all the parts around here. I ended up finding just about all I need, tho. Good Luck! My opinion to anyone in our situation. DONT waiste one second or one cent on the holley 52xx - 65xx carbs unless you already have them and know they are in good working order, and even then they really are a gamble. Dont buy them off E-Bay! There were so many different applications, linkages and styles it is impossible to know what you really are getting. Save your time and money for the SPFI swap or buy the weber kit.

So the holley 5210 didnt work out for you either?

Im still contemplating installing the ecu in a box in the spare tire area... But I am concerned about heat. Im not too sure its really that hot there, and with summers that reach 120+ here from time to time it gets smokin hot in the interior anyways. Maybe its not the best spot for it though. GD: did you ever end up trying it?

Blues brothers?

I am smack in the middle of the FI swap. And yes I have never had a rebuilt carb that was right. From AMC to Ford, International, etc. I have always found them to be junk. But I had to try.

The wheels and star would take some time

I would like to modify my reply, for some reason I was curious. After doing some snooping I found that there is a "vacuum advance control solenoid". And that Ca models had a dual advance distributor. I dont know the ea82's at all, so it is possible that the distributor advance was controlled in some way. Maybe not by the box under the dash. And it most likely it only turned off the vacuume advance when cold, but this leads me to belive that this system could control more than the ea81 system. You probably yanked this stuff anyways, and it may not even apply to your car. But I was not correct.

On the ea81 cars it only controls the carburetor feedback system, all components which you probably disabled when removing the hitachi. It has no control over timing, fuel pump power, choke function, heated seats etc. I belive the only actuators it had were the solenoids. It doesnt matter where it has sensors or sensor, you no longer need them. Unpluging it after you have weberized would have no effect other than leaving behind some loose wires under the dash. I doubt the ea82 system is any different in this reguard.

I did not look any further into the head gasket, being an issue. I really should do a compression test. The coolant level was bit low and the bottle was empty, so I wrote it off as the cause. Im not in the mood for a head gasket replacement.

The flooding is most likely your problem. The sucking sound is just the air rushing through the throttle bore and might be enhanced by the extra fuel being slurped down. Your float or needle and seat is in need of inspection. It sounds like its time for a rebuild.

Check your coolant temp sensor and connection. There is probably nothing wrong with the IAC valve, its being told to stay open.

Oh, You dont need to remove the screws to adjust the butterfly, just loosen them a hair. But if you do decide to remove the plates... Use new screws. You can really only stake them once and you also run the risk of stripping the threads in the shaft with a pre-staked re-used screw. If you do get it stripped in there it sucks to get it out. When you stake in-place support the shaft with a socket or something cause if you dont you could bend the shaft and butterfly.