ihscout54

You may find a solution, unfortunatley for me my carbs are no good for this application. Its a pitty though, I had the swap perfect with a nice air cleaner, throttle linkage etc. The secondary has a stop screw I would not tamper with it unless its not closing tight. Its only accessable from the bottom. I had 3 carbs, and all 3 did totally different things. Funny thing is the used one from the junk yard was better running than the 2 e-bay rebuilts. Im sure the weber DGV's get the shaft play just like the holley 5200's.

There is a procedure for tuning the idle on these. The idea is that the throttle plate needs to be pretty much closed at idle. http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/carburetor_set_up_and_lean_best_.htm Im sure youve seen this but every time you touch this thing you will have to do this again. If the micture screw is damged or incorrect, you will have problems. Also, the throttle plate must be set correctly in the bore, or you will never be able to tune it properly. Befor you beat your head against the wall too much longer, take a look at my experiances with rebuilt holley 5200's (similar to your weber). Not that this will solve any problem, but I know how you feel. It may trigger an idea. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=95459

You might want to use a belt sander or a block and sand all the mating surfaces flat. I bet the gaskets supplied are crap, you might want to try some others. Is there any throttle shaft play? Disconnect and plug all vacuume sources, including the pcv. I bet you missed one of the little ones in the manifold.

How about the O2 sensor? Check your air filter anyways, maybe a mouse moved in. Car still warming up the operating temp like normal? Did this start right after the tire replacement. Been under stress? Maybe your driving habits have changed and you have not noticed.

The fuel pump will not operate unless the engine is turning it receives its signal from the coil. Are you using the correct coil for your disty? Have someone crank it with the disty cap off and make sure everything is spinning correctly in there. You have power at the coil, but you still get no spark correct? Does the tach move when you are cranking it?

"Spiffy" pulled + purchased. Removal of the harness took longer than I expected. Harness ready, distributor re-geared. Tomarrow is another day... Im having trouble getting the throttle-body gasket and the manifold gaskets. The dealership by my house is GONE! The one across town did not answer their phone. Im getting tempted to do a Checker or napa run, but I should know better.

And thats probably where I would put it. But I just liked the box under the hood idea. Plus if you could modify these wires then it would aid in removal and installation.

I liked GD's idea about putting the ECM in a water tight box in the spare tire area, and from the pics of the harness the disty and MAF wires will be super super long. Ive searched and did not find a clear answer on the fuel pump screen. Im also supprised that reducing the fuel suply line size doesnt make a difference...

Ok befor I get too serious about finding a "spiffi" for my brat again I read both install manuals and have a couple questions. If you wanted to put the ECM somewhere else can you lengthen/shorten the grey sheathed wiring. I think the only ones that probably matter are the O2 sensor, and the MAF... But could the wires be modified with out throwing off the sensors? The fuel pump has a built-in strainer? I see no pre pump protection and no mention of it. I know my tank doesnt have one.

I had been looking for a F.I. set up at the J-Y for some time, I just gave up and decided to go another rout. For the time and energy lost I could have had the F.I. system running by now. For the money it will cost to convert to a new Weber I would way rather have F.I.

G.D. was right on track. Bore of the carbs/throttle plates are the source of my troubles for sure. I held the bores up to the sun with the plates closed tightly. The 2 factory reman ones no matter how hard I try I cant get light to not peak through just a tiny bit when the plates are closed. The J-Y unit I tried all 3 plates in it and with just a little adj. and a couple blips all 3 center perfectly and allows no light to creep through. This must just be a wear factor, and or a problem with the bushings. On a 2.5l motor I bet this small imperfection may not be as big a deal, but on these little motors its just screwing me all up. Moral of the story. Facotry REBUILT carbs are junk. The things I found wrong with these, throttle shafts have excessive play after rebushing. One of them had a mangled emulsion tube. They obviously had trouble with it at the shop and just let it go. One of them was missing the idle jet. The holder was there but no jet... For anyone searching for info Holley 5200 5210 6500 etc, it is the luck of the draw as to what you will get. Save your money and time get the Weber kit or fix the Hitatchi.

I did remove the brass plug covering the mixture allen screw. But the plug covering the idle jet port I am afraid to remove because Im not sure there is anything behind it. Its pretty hard to remove those without ruining them. I dont think the idle jetting can be modified on this unit. There are soo many variations of these carbs, and the rebuild quality on them is pretty poor. I wanted to make use of these because I had a couple.

I have 3 carbs that can be functional. 2 of them have the 2 small hole set up for the ports. On both of them the ports are completely covered by the butterfly. Weather it leaked at the shaft or not, it definately has a small gap from the reemed out shaft on each side of the butterfly, which is probably the source of the problem. I just put on the 3rd which is not rebuilt and has not been rebushed, has the slot setup. The idle screw can be adj. till the engine stalls. But, the idle jetting on this unit is not adjustable, and its too rich.

The copper tubes replaced the rebuilder's bushings (ac delco) isnt likely taking it anywhere will help. Its pretty hard to find a good carb shop here. And even harder to find throttle shaft bushings. That may explain why the unit I "ghetto bushed". But the second carb I put on does drive better. But I cannot get it to idle less than 1100 rpm. This carb is used though, but in good shape. My transition port is a slot.

I agree, thats why I didnt get too far in tuning it I was stuck on the idle system for ever. But I tried a 40-50-55-80 idle jet and with some tuning it would run fine but after a trip up and down the street it would start idling low and crappy and bogging and studdering under half throttle. Light throttle was fair. Floored was pretty good. Even changing the jets had little influence on this. I took to choke off the second carb, and plugged the element cooling hole. It is not a feedback verson of the 5210.

Ive set the float level about 6 times and changed the float to a plastic one from the brass. The only contaminants I had in the bowl were little brass shavings either from changing the jets, or I did find a really screwed up emulsion tube. I cleaned the carb out 2 times and replaced the tube. It ran ok for a while... I then decided it was full of brass shavings, and put on a different carb.

Ive installed a holley 5210 on my '82 BRAT. After first installing it, it idled at 1200 rpm no matter what. I used some copper tubing and rebushed the throttle shaft, and was able to get the idle down... But I cannot tune it! It will not idle consistantly. Sometimes the acceleration is great other times it bogs sputters etc. I have a number of jets and air correctors I've played with. Ive changed the idle jets up and down. Sometimes it wants more fuel, then after I have it running great its too rich, so I lean it out a bit, and its great, then it dies. I put a different carb on, and now it wont idle less than 1200 rpm again but accelerates fine. I know these rebuilt carbs are junk, but I have a bunch of holley 5200 pieces/parts around. New fuel pump + filter 3psi fuel pressure +/- a hair. I have checked 300 times for vacuum leaks. Everything is now plugged including brake booster. I have also sanded the adaptor plate and base of carb flat. Sprayed carb cleaner all over the place, nothing. The cat is only 3 months old. Gas looks fine, recent fill up... Could it be bad? I started thinking mabe that little coolant port under the carb adaptor was leaking (long shot) so I popped off my radiator cap to check the level, and I found foam/bubbles. Could a bad head gasket be screwin' with me? Car does not over heat. Ive had enough for today, any Ideas?

http://www.ccrengines.com/

It's most likely a piece of the valve, which you can see from the pics has been modifyed from its designed shape. What ever it is I bet it came from within (that motor ate itself).

Some of that valve/piston found its way (got sucked) into the other cylindar through the head. Looks to me like a classic sucked valve. Sorry. that sucks especially now that aluminuim values are down.

Probably the pins inside the lock, but could also be the clip that attacthes it to the rod. Sounds like it will need replaced.

The o2 sensor code may just be, because the car is running too lean. Befor you go any further did you try all the standard stuff first? Did you run with it unplugged? That will throw your code. Did you check for vacuum leaks? How bout the PCV? The temp switch should throw its own code... Did you check the o2 sensor and its wiring? what did the code say exactly? Doubt it will help, but, did you try unhooking the battery for a bit? Or at least clear the codes, see who comes back?

I once rigged a lock for a mail box (available at the hardware store) up to make a locking fuel door. You have to be a little inventive but it works. Theres always the j-yard if all else fails.

The wheels may be DOT approved... But not for highway use. If you are thinking of the RZR Ranger etc, yes they have larger wheels but if memory serves me right their bolt paterns were all 4x156. They do have some cool wheel styles though.

I've had this thought befor, the 4x140 pattern is used by a number of ATV's. The biggest ones I ever found were only 12" anyways. Unless your car is for off road only I think you will have little use for these as they are not DOT highway approved. Not to mention many other problems like backspacing etc.