ihscout54

It looks right at home next to that Cherokee. You should see about double the mpg's if that Jeep is what you are used to. Or even more if it is a quadratrac.

When I fixed mine I was going to use door seam channel type weather stripping, or a door edge gaurd. You can get the edge gaurds in a chrome finish. I ended up drilling a few holes in the chrome piece and using toggle bolts (dry wall anchors) w/ stainles screws and tightened them barely hand tight. It works fine, looks fine.

You're not using the gauge on the dash alone to diagnose this are you? Befor you get too far ahead, are you sure it actually had 0psi of oil pressure? If it actaully was getting no oil pressure it would sound pretty bad. A couple of minutes of run with out oil pressure on a worn in motor probably would do little damage, but if it was being driven... I dosent sound good.

Its been awhile since I changed one (memory vague) but as usual G.D. is right. They did change pedal styles for '84-, in fact the part #'s for the cables were different too. The big difference I saw in the pedal was there was a bushing pressed into a larger hole in the pedal. This eliminated the wear into the pedal and probably reduced wear on the pin. I used this method to repair my worn pedal. The method of attatchment on the pedal end bracket assy. was different between the 2 cables and I saw no easy way of making it work. When Im at the J/yard, and notice a significant difference in parts I dont usually pull them. I know the Cardone and the B/A cables are trash, warranty or not, I do not care to limp a clutchless car home. When the Cardone cable failed after 3 months, Checker replaced it with a B/A which lasted about 8 months. Right now I have an ugly J/yard cable in there and so far so good. Note: this car is only driven on weekends.

Its not jammed all the way in is it? If its just a little bugged up, go to NAPA or parts store and get a chaser. Ive never had to do this on aluminum. But if its stripped you have to put a thread repair kit in. This is no fun.

Was it throwing codes befor the cat failed?

Does McBrat make the vynil on Ebay, they have the Brat 4WD tailgate emblem, complete Brat sets etc? Its gotta be someone on this board

Does the car run too rich? Alot of cat failures are caused by this. The egr code may be from the plugged up cat. That cat sure didnt last long.

Paint does not stick to aluminum well but it can be painted Ive seen lotsa trannys' painted but they usually end up looking worse than if they had not been painted. Also aluminum isnt usually painted because it doesnt rust like cast iron. (why waste the money)

What made them make this comment? Was it a noise comming from the fan, or was it wobbling? When the car is cool the fan should be easy to spin, when its hot it should be very hard to turn, Ive seen some that are hard to turn at first when cold, but losen up after driving. There should be little play front to back (no wobble)The idea is they only engage fully when the engine is hot and really needs the fans support. It reduces unnessisary engine load. Maybe youre belt was tight like a guitar string, or the water pump was like many other crappy aftermarket auto parts out there.

In the case of the "smog pump" they will backfire if the diverter valve has failed, and boy do they backfire, I had a scout shoot pretty blue flames. If youre idle is too low you will get this, or too rich. All my non F.I. vehicles have done this after changing exhaust. Reduction in backpressure... I think some times the deceleration backfire was present just alot less noticeable with the stock muffler. I dont know just how harmful it really is, but if you advance youre timing a bit, or up your idle, I bet it will reduce that popoppop youre getting. There will be no vaccume advance on decel.

Ive not always had the best luck with NOS stuff. It depends on what it is though. And many places have very good storage areas which improve the condition of these items, but for those items left over from 1982 it can be a real crap shoot. Alot can happen to something that sits for 25+ years, all it takes is one roof leak or one bad forklift driver... But anyways my point was, a motor that sits for a few years or more should be gone through anyways.

I thought my rust was just surface rust, while honing it I found 2 cyls had many small pitts and spots left behind. Yours may actually be "really light" surface rust, but your probably going to have to hone it again. The turtle wax idea sounds cool might be worth a try, but be careful to get all the residues out and keep the grittys out of the block.

These things are pretty few and far betwen here in Vegas (especially the ea81s and older), but every great now and then Ill spot one. Funny 220 miles away when I got to prescott I see 1 or more every time I go. Thats why I keep my subs. Lonelyness = unuiqe, my lil brat gets me more coments and looks than my '59 f100 or cammo scouts ever did.

Sounds like your headlamp switch went bad.

Vaccume advance canister on the distributor, they are always bad on these cars (alt least here in the desert. How did he know cyl 3 was bad? I did not notice you mentioning this.

Here's a few things that may cause a vary-ing temp gauge. Low coolant Intermitant grounding issue. Fan inop. Head Gasket failure

If the disty is hooked to a non tuned port (i.e. manifold) it will be way too adv. at idle. If the can even works, Ive never found a good one at the j-yard anyways. But Ive seen it befor, and the vehicle idles terribly. Towing it with the rear axle rolling is fine.

Your disty may be off a tooth or the rotor is loose, pull vac line off the disty and see what happens. Dont give up yet, I think you may need to park it for a lil bit while you work some bugs out. W/80k it probably has bugs from sitting, and you have others tampering with it too thats BAD! cause then you have no Idea whats been done and why.

Reparing that leak will eleminate ALOT! of your problems. If youda had that duck tape you coulda taped it to get her home. See... it was so simple just like the battery issue. I always jump ahead too but more often than not, its simple. Always start simple first. -Sam

Its been snowing all day here in Vegas that does not happen very often.

The timing light is a tool you might be able to get it at walmart... :-\

Usually if it is off and it will start it will only run in the extreme one way or the other... But get it home first. The duct tape and bailing wire will get you out from the middle of nowhere. Ive made throttle linkages, repaired clutch cables, belts, damaged wires, fixed leaks.... That stuff will get you home or at least back to a place to work on it. In youre case though, its for your friends that keep messin with your car. Good Luck (follow up) -Sam

Walmart parking lot rescue kit. 1: Jumper cables 2: Basic metric tool set. Pliars and a hammer. 3: carb cleaner/starting fluid (I prefer the carb cleaner) 4: Bailing wire and duct tape. set the disty in the middle and check for vaccume leaks, you didnt say you just needed to limp it home. Prim it with the cleaner and let it warm up real good.

As far as the screw goes, that is not the proper method to time your car. It should probably be somewhere center in the slot. Clockwise rotation will advance the timing. As long as the disty. was installed properly.... Can you set the timing? Stove pipe/Hot air intake. Its the little flexi tin tube that hooks the air cleaner to a hookup on the exhaust. It allows for hot air to be takin in to warm the fuel and the carb. Once the engine reaches like 85 degrees or so its disabled by a thermo vac. switch that operates a diverter valve on the air cleaner. It often is dissabled perminantly by owners.