ihscout54

Ive looked at so many cool pictures here, I guess it's my turn to share. -Sam

Look at that my brat was born the same month and year as I was

Did you try pullin backwards nicely on the gas pedal (after it warms up) see if you can force it to idle? Check vac lines make sure you didnt knock any off. Especially from the Air cleaner to the vac. switch, you just messed with that. Choke issue, make sure when hot the choke plate is open. Also look to the linkage make sure its not biding there. Throttle return spring, also there is a small return spring for the secondary that could have failed or popped off -that would cause some hit and miss weird idle problems. Does it miss? -Sam

I know some one on here has made their own adaptor plate and used a different carb... I wonder what kinda luck they've had. Been reading these posts on FI swap... If I can find all the parts from one car Saturday I may just dive right in. Im just attached to the classic appeal of these ugly little cars of mine and the carb and goofy blue steel valve covers are all part of that "classic effect". Maybe Ill keep an eye out for a used one 'round here. Any one seen a better price than $320.00 Shipped for a weber kit? -Sam

too bad Carson is like 8+ hours away. There used to be a really good junk yard less than 3 mins from my house but they shut down, now they are all across town, and they are kinda rediculous with the pricing on some stuff. It may actually be cheaper to do the spfi swap.... Maybe Ill take the 40 min. trip over there on saturday, maybe I wont leave empty handed for once. That weber would definately be fun though. I wonder how bad it will change mileage. And if I ever have to do emissions..? They have been on ebay for $320 shipped, best Ive seen for complete ready to bolt on kit. Every time I cheap out and buy a used somethin it takes forever to gather all parts. If I do go used it will need to have the carb, plate, filter and hardware Im half way there, a few more thoughts away from "Buy it now" Thanks -Sam

Im having trouble deciding to dump the $320 on a weber for my brat or not. Its alot of cash... More than I paid for either of my subaru's. I could definately better spend the money somewhere else on the car. It starts and runs well, a little rich at ldle but well. The carb was rebuilt 2 years ago and still seems ok small signs of a leak at the accel pump but nothing wet. I dont think Im interested in the FI swap its just too tough to find parts around here. Maybe your opinions will help me decide. -Sam

1982 brat GL has some opts. w a/c. My wagon as well calls for 185's. The upgrade to gl must have also included an upgrade in tire size and possibly brand quality.

Checked the door jamb plate... Definately 185/70's -Sam

Whats the difference between a fat chick and a Chevy Cavalier? They are both fun to ride but you dont wanna let your friends see you ridden them. Couldt resist.

I was sure it said 185... got tires recently, And I wanted 185/80's but I had trouble finding them anywhere so I settled on (what I thought was) stock. Maybe we are both right. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/specs/general/1983brat.html -Sam

Maybe that wire is being piched by the radiator and grounding out. You could always just cut it and run a new wire. The turn signal might be the flasher as stated above, the switch its self has dirty or weak contacts, or something is drawing extra juice from that side bulbs, short, trailer wiring issue if applicable. Check youre fuses too maybe the had gotten wet at some point during hibernation and now are making poor contact- not likely but... Were the windows left open? Did you find any nests after it sat? Those always come with chewed wires. -Sam

I was pretty sure my brat prefered 185/70R13's

Thats what Id do. Your logic brings back a memory. I used a grease needle for the ball joints on several ford explorer or ranger 2wd (without I-beams) I would UCI. I dont think I ever saw one that wasnt noisy be it 30k or 150k miles, that stoped it all the times I did it. An old timer caught me doing it once and said it causes premature boot failure, but if you didnt do it, it would just come back after it was sold. Altho his logic was good because when it did come back you might flag some control arms or knuckles. -Sam

My buddy was wrong It was a rubber band motor... The search continues. Thank you guys -Sam

Reliable long lasting and economic is my goal. -Sam

So my ideal builder is a 83+ auto, or 85+ any... Why did the 83+84 only have hydro's in the auto trans model? Thanks for all the info -Sam

So my unit doesnt have hydro lifters? 1982 brat Thanks -Sam

I dont have the motor yet, and Im not going to get it if I cannot use it, if anyone in Vegas area can use it and would like to swap let me know. Kinda a bummer cause the damn junkyard wants $270 for a core. And this one would have been free. -Sam

I see alot of carb'd turbo sandrails out there but the moral of this story is that this motor may be useless to me. -Sam

So as far as what i am looking to do this motor may not be useable, maybe this is the time to find a turbo... I had a couple chevy 6.5's but I still know little about turbos. what kind of turbo will I be looking for?

Are you looking for the gauge or the sender? The sender should be availiable and cheap, as they were used in other makes. Hyundai, Lexus, Toyota, Geo/Chevrolet, Honda, Mazda. Anyways if your looking for a gauge dont mess with that. Get a mech. gauge they are cheap and only a small pain to install... If I remember right I had some trouble with the threads on the oil pump had to rig something... Cant remember if that was my brat or not. Hope that helps. -Sam

Ive got a line on a core motor for my brat. Its an ea81t minus the turbo and F.I. stuff. After some resurch here I now know that it is lower compression. Is this a property of the heads or the shape of the pistons? What other differences does this motor have from the n/a ea81. Can I still use it as a core or should I have said no? I missed out, Chris Lantieri was giving one away a few months ago I want to build a motor for my brat with out removing my current running motor. -Sam

There is no for sure way of telling how the car was treated, if the oil was ever changed, or if the odometer is even accurate. The condition of the body steering wheel carpet pedals etc. are good indicators of its over all use but still prooves nothing. Its possible that they drove it low on oil, or the oil pump failed and it wasnt shut off quick enough to save a motor They might have lugged the motor everywhere, Ive seen people that just have to shift at 1500rpms. They might have used the incorrect oil for years. (the prev owner probably let it sit cause they knew about it.) At this point it dont matter what caused the condition, Whats important now is what you are going to do with it. Are you attached to this vehicle yet? To the point to do what is going to need to be done. Or should you sell it (letting your buyer know what you have discoverd) and recoup some of your money. These cars are hard to find parts for and a bit expensive. Only you can decide. The only reason I havent given up on my brat yet is that its the only one ive seen here in years. And it gets almost as many comments as my lifted cammo diesel Suburban used too. On this toppic if it makes you feel any better my brat has odd oil pressure readings too very low at hot idle but 2500 rpms+ 40-50psi. And I as well get a knock under load but it is intermittent sometimes ill back into my diveway and it will knock and sometimes it wont, Ive pulled plug wires and it comes from the no. 1 cyl. soo its possibly impending doom but im trying to enjoy the car... Its pretty clean and has only 112k.

good luck finding that shift shaft seal, even the dealer couldnt souce one for me. my subaru leaks from the 4wd hi light switch its on the drivers side bottom of the trans behind the axel, the old tranny i replaced leaked pretty good from there too. -Sam

my 82 brat has a 2 wire o2 sensor, and i havent been able to find anything but single wire sensors to replace it, is one of the wires just a ground? and if so can i modify an aavialible sensor to work properly? thanks -Sam