ihscout54

Ide reconfirm the diagnosis with my own eyes, if it truly only appeared after new tire mounting. Looks as tho the parts are still semi available. Power steering could require different parts. http://www.abcauto.com/item.wws?sku=45G24013&itempk=118643&mfr=ACDELCO%20PROFESSIONAL&weight=0.130 http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-45G24014-Professional-Pinion-Bushing/dp/compatibility-chart/B000C9OMV2

The stock valve for a gen 2 (likely what you need) will run you about a hundred bux. Thats a pretty good price, if they actually have one in stock. Ive ordered from them befor, give them your vin and varify its the correct part. http://www.quirkparts.com/oe-subaru/772013041 Or see my above posts... Stock valve for the gen 1 (probably not what you need) its cheap and a bit more available. http://www.ebay.com/itm/77-78-79-Subaru-GL-DL-Brat-1600-1800-Water-Heater-Control-Valve-Cable-OP-NORS-/321079248524?fits=Make%3ASubaru%7CModel%3ABrat&hash=item4ac1d0868c:m:m36AE3Um3FS8uXUMExrcGYg&vxp=mtr

Umm, so Im gunna say its the driver side fan that wont shut off? That sorta sucks because you have an A/C car and the system for that fan is much more complex. Makes sense tho, since the fuse for that fan is under the hood near the strut tower on the passenger side (on some cars). It is not controlled by the Ign switch, that explains the battery drain. Any of these relays could have hung up and there is three of them involved with operation of the aux fan. One of them also operates the compressor clutch, they should be located on the passenger side strut tower in a row. Two 4 pin, and a 6 pin relay. For testing, Ide remove their harnesses and see if your drain issue stops. If so you can systematically test later. Do you have FUNCTIONING A/C? Note: that this system varies a bit from year to year, and to further muddy, it could be an after market system. Add that too some wiring "mods" this might get real fun.

"Whats the difference"? Alot Gen 1 Gen 2

Is it a gen 1 or a gen 2 with an EA71 engine?

Do you have 2 cooling fans (a/c car), and if so which fan is staying on? The engine cooling fan fuse should be in the box, #5 maybe. Sounds like the fan has been rewired by a previous owner, its a common problem circuit. Stock the fan (+) should be controlled by the ignition switch and the (-) controlled by the temp switch in the radiator. Could this event have finished off an already weak battery? Another possibility is that you have a bad ignition switch that is not turning off, combined with a bad thermo switch (or a wiring mod) for the fan. In that event the radio among other things would stay on as well. If you drive in stop and go traffic you need to get the fan back up and running. Dont idle for long periods of time till you do.

You could always just delete the valve and run without one... Let the blend door do the rest. If its cold where you live this might just work. Manual valve, this is the simplest and most reliable. It requires that you pull over and open the hood to "activate" heat tho. Ford style vacuum operated. This is what Im running on the BRAT. From something like an 1985 Escort. It requires a switch, solenoid and vacuum lines. Possibly even a vac reservoir. Lincoln electronic valve. Try an electronic valve... Ive not tried one and dont know how theyd work. https://www.carpartsdiscount.com/heater-control-valve/lincoln~town-car.html?3594=2215

If your car is an EA71 (gen 1) then the valves can be found for under 50 bux. If its an EA81, they are scarce and Ive replaced them with a manual valve under the hood, or a vacuum/electric operated valve. Its not real difficult. Getting the old valve out is a little annoying. I replace the valve with some heater hose (from the core to the firewall). Youll need to penetrate the firewall with tubing, IIRC I cut the brass tubing off the valve its self for this. The only thing that I found is a real snag was hooking up the blend door to the temp control cable was tricky. Youll have to get creative there (I used some zip ties). Since functionality changes, you sorta loose the smooth thermostatic operation after this. Airflow becomes cold, warm, or hot.

If your only lifting the struts to gain your 2" then the steering shaft wont need extended. Then you have axle and tire wear issues (thats not a lift kit). All of its "easy", but requires time. I also want to add that Ive seen a couple home brew lifts on Scouts that made me feel uncomfortable sitting in the rig. Hockey pucks square tubing a 2x4s. For some reason that steering shaft has always bugged me. I think its not in the kit for liability reasons. When I get too the Brat project I will lift it, someday.

Is yours a round, unmarked, hard plastic knob, or a rubber one with the shift pattern on it? The stock knob for your year could be a black "8 ball". Nice car.

This is common on many cars, its related to thermostat operation and possibly alternator output variables. What does 1/2 gauge translate too in degrees with a fully charged battery? That sounds like quite a swing in the readings, but it may not be a huge swing in temp. I dont know how the Loyales gauges are regulated, but I doubt their a precision instrument. Keep in mind the temp gauge is just a guide, If you truly think you have a problem then you need to do some testing with a temp gun. Ide be more concerned with sways in readings after its fully warmed up.

Any machine shop or paint supplier that sells automotive paints should have books with the codes and recipes that go back to the 30's. Most of them fill rattle cans as well. But it would likely cost you less to order a cheapo spray gun and separator to paint a whole car. The cans arent cheap. I dont know if you have anything like that in you neck of tte woods tho. I live in a pretty small town, and we have one.

Unfortunately, any lift that drops the sub will require the brake lines and steering shaft extended. Ive not done it because of this. None of the kits Ive seen here address these items.

Its similar but not the same. It wont fit the EA81 manifold, u could swap manifolds, but really, a weber swap would be a much better project.

IiRC the vacuum line to the cabin is for the fresh air door only. I cant recall weather or not it closes for the heat or defrost settings. If it works theres no reason not to leave the line hooked up.

Those are the feedback vacuum switches. I wont waist any time on what they do or how they work. If your deleting, then I can assume you dont have an emissions inspection, and you are no longer feedback controlled. Those serve no purpose. Pull them and save them in a box. The line to the firewall is for the HVAC system, as mentioned in my other post, it should be kept. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/154295-just-plug-it-taking-some-of-the-mystery-out-of-your-hitachi/

I really cant make much out in those pics, since Im on my phone. Looks like some of the remnants of a feedback system. Those plastic "peices" should be vacuum switches, they were part of the feedback sensor network. They can go since your going non feeback. The other line (by the trans) is probably just plugged. I imagaine it was for an already deleted gem. All you need, on that side, is a line to the cabin, a/c idle up device (if applicable) and for the trans modulator (if its an auto).

As Jez said you could have easily left a hose off or a bolt loose and have a vac leak. You should also look at the throttle cable and check adjustment. Make sure the carb is returning to idle, and that neither butterflies are sticky.

Too bad the hitachi is so annoying. Ive never gotten over 24-25 with them, but I never use my cars for highway driving. Tweetys issues sound a bit like the problems Ive had with my swaps and it was due to fuel delivery issues. That was the most trying part of the swap, feeding that injector is not as easy as GDs write up leads on. At least in my experiance. I wont do the swap anymore because the parts are just getting too hard to find. Ive got my current hitachi rig running great, and if it fails, a weber will cover the hole it will leave behind after I toss it in the scrap pile.

Its really not as hard as it seems. There are writeups floating around out there covering the subject, and its a pretty simple system. Parts for the spfi are drying up, where as a carbed car could be converted to a Weber. I personally prefur the SPFI, but the lack of parts is a bit annoying. The intake manifold/throttle body is most of the system. Youll also need the intake boot with the MAF (maybe the filter housing too), the disty and fuel pump.

Sounds alot like a loose battery terminal or cable. Ide check em and clean them if needed.

I tried to tell you this has to be done. It probably would have been easier than swapping the shafts back. Your supposed to loosen the adjusters befor you pull the rocker assy anyways. That procedure is correct, but I never use the marks to do it. It really dont matter what order you do them in either as long as the cyl being adjusted is at tdc. Once you start doing it and wrap your head around it youll figure it out.

The wire thin wire from battery (+) to the fuseable link box needs to be removed and inspected, especially where it connects to the fuse block. Could be a bad ignition switch, its mote likely you have a damaged wire somewhere but since you have to get to the connector for testing anyways might as well test it first. The yellow wire you asked about is connected to the (-) terminal on the coil? Did you trace it to the ecm under the dash?

The pushrods wear, possibly differently... Its miniamal but what youde be adjusting is a pretty tiny gap. Im assuming you have a solid lifter EA81, if so the adjustment procedure is annoying (in the car) but easy.

Im not thare so Im only giving an opinion. If they are reversed then theres a good chance swapping them back will get it to start. Ive never gone this deep withought adjusting the valves. Kinda a requirement for this job on the solid lifter motors. Too many variables like pushrods getting mixed up, head surfacing and new gasket thickness. They are always off after... I would take my advice in my previous thread, when you push too hard mistakes happen.