ihscout54

The adjustments must be checked, most certainly if you swapped the rocker assys. Sometimes you have to just quit for the night. Start fresh tomorrow. Watch the Mentalist or throw in a Star Wars dvd. Heres a couple threads to read while you chill. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/152312-ea81-rocker-arm-assy-left-and-right/ http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/155873-ea81-valve-adjustment-issues/

The rocker assys are marked for oreintation, but the engine will run fine with them swapped. I bet your valve adjustments are off. You didn't end up with a couple pushrods left over did you? Ide go through the adjustment procedure again. If your way off it will crank pretty funny,

Aside from seeing if phil still rebuilds, your only options are the obvious ones: Get a complete reman disty, find one at a junk yard, or re-time and live without it. If you do replace the distributor I recommend swapping to the nippondenso type, they have a longer service life, and Ive yet to have one with a bad advance can. All my hitachis had bad diaphrams and plenty of shaft play.

Cant speak for the EA82 and I may have sets of 8 left from the kits but Im pretty sure Ive noticed what I described above more than once. If I get a chance tomorrow Ill check some of my extra heads.

Not real easy to see under the springs. Ive never touched them but I think they are supposed to be the other way around. Intake (outer) valves get the seals exhaust (inner) dont. (I) (e) (e) (i) if that helps. Glad the project is moving along. Did you find an obvious gasket failure spot on the head or block surface?

Yup and I have had this happen to me as well.

Pretty sure that R12 aka Freon was banned here like 20 years ago. Newer fridges use 134a. Getting your hands on old stock 12 requires certification, and money. Bet old cans are on ebay tho, dig deep as its not cheap.

Once they come loose the cone washer cannot be trusted. They arent really meant to be a reusable part. There is also a good chance that the hub is compromised. In other words it will probably come loose again and require deeper repair. Next time ur at the junkyard grab a hub or two. i always try to keep a couple instock since Ive run into this a couple times now.

If your car has/had a/c then there should be 2 fans and there is a relay. Im not sure what hose you could pull that would effect the fan. The only thing coming to mind is that a big vac leak could cause a lean condition possibly making the car run hotter.

I wish to add one thing to the awesome posts you have already gotten from dave turbobrat and jezz. You dont need to remove the hood, just use a piece of pipe or anything for that matter to push the hood open to its max, make sure its secure or you will need head stitches. Are you gunna be able to afford a clutch? I highly reccomend it while the engine is out.

The fan is controlled by the thermoswitch located in the radiator. Its under the upper hose on the passenger side. It controls the fans ground (no relay) so its a common enough failure. The connector is also a corrosion point as well. Also check the little ground strap on the top of the radiator. You can test the fan by grounding the thermoswitch connector directly.

Giving you a hard time, Sorry! Definitely did not mean to make u feel stupid, becuase your not. On the occasion that I feel some one on the board is lame I do not reply to their posts. I think I reply to all of yours. I actually feel for your situation becuase Ive been there.As for the removal without a crane, its a cinch. Reinstallation on the other hand not so much. It seems like a daunting task, and it is a project. You will be shocked how easy it is after you do it.

Bringing up banned members on any forum is sorta taboo. His posts were always good and I can't recall any of them being against policy or rude in any way. If you are sure he got hacked who cares what happened since it wasnt him. Please contact our moderators for him.

sapp? Think outside the box. 2 guys an Iron pipe or maybe a 4x4 and some chain. Heck some nylon rope. The engine is only like 200 lbs. Obviously a picker would be better, not required.

I think Corteco makes the non masonite ones as well. Just make sure they are not the cardboard ones. Some advice for you: do this job when you have more money to do it right. Pull the engine, replace the gaskets, belt, clutch and hoses. Im against trying to do this job in the car, especially since these motors are so easy to pull. You dont even need a hoist if you have a helper. Getting the heads in and out, fighting with the push rods and trying to inspect the block mating surface would be annoying in the engine bay. If your car isnt overheating and not mixing fluids then open a savings account, and drive it.

Haha I have a 20% cupon, wanna go halves? Mobile lifts are hard to come by.

I think the adjustment specs your using are for a solid lifter engine. The hydro motors have little lock tabs for the nuts and the push rods look very different. What you are describing makes me think your not getting the cyls in their firing positions. Take the plugs out and make sure the cyl is all the way up/out on the compression stroke, use a pen or a screwdriver if needed. Confirm the rotor is in firing position for the cyl to be adjusted.

If you google filter comparisons theres tons of cut open comparisons all over the web. "Bobstheoilguy" comes to mind. Comparisons are worthless these days tho. With all the lot buyout and lowest bidder type suppliers, products on the shelf could change by the week. I also imagine many are manufactured in one factory over seas, shipped here, then boxed and labeled by multiple suppliers. Makes you wonder which ones are really safe, and it may have little to do with brand names. Ive read and heard horror stories. One of my coworkers just told me one such story with the no oil pressure with filter change. Not very nice.

Ive used a can of Great Stuff quick foam to fill big cracks. Cut the excess and the curled crispy vinyl. Spread Dap Weldwood (the red can) contact cement to glue some poly outdoor carpet, or a dash mat, over the mess.

We dont know what temp stat your running. Cant tell you about the gauge and I really cant say much about your HVAC system. What I will say is max A/C is usually a recirculate function, in that setting the fresh air door is shut. This function may also allow for "max" heat and hide a blend door issue. If I were you Ide find out what temp stat your running, if its 192 then Ide be checking the blend door operation.

Im sorry my above post was long, but you should read it again. What your asking is already in the post. If your symproms fit then...

Bars leaks 1111, steal seal etc... Its a long shot and likely temporary repair if it works. The secret its sodium silicate. As stated above internal leaks are not easily repaired with a miracle in a bottle. The pressures in the combustion process are pushing gasses into the cooling system. This action makes it hard for any cooling system sealant to make its way into the leak area, or for that matter, stay in place. If your leak is creating tail pipe steam there is a small chance a sealant will be sucked into the void and work. Your car must consume coolant if there is any chance for this to work. Bars head gasket fix 1111 or what ever is at walmart for under 20 bux. Ive used it and it does put shimmery goo in your cooling system. I belive most factory coolants have a small ammount of sodium silicate in them now. This is to help counter-act poor castings, head gasket issues etc. anything to help get the car through the warrenty period. I have no proof tho, just what ive been told by pros in da biz. Dont care what all the others on here will say, IMO if your car is consuming coolant and you know your HG is done its a 20 buck experiment. If it doesnt work you can flush it hard when you replace your HGs.

You can live without the bowl vent. If it bugs you, order a remote mounted solenoid from an 80s ford, or what you mentioned in you post. The anti-dieseling solenoid a.k.a. "idle stop" needs to be working or gutted.

Fan switch temps very by unit. They should go closed around 203 +\- and then open around 194 f. It neednt be real precise. 10 Degrees above stat open temp will work fine. The threads for the hole in the radiator are m16 x 1.5.

Please update us on whats been done so far. Did you look at anything I suggested above? If you have ruled out a faulty cts (you said it was new) you should check the injector for leakage while the car is not running. Hard starting when hot is often due to a flooding condition. Does opening the throttle help it start when its being stubborn?